How do I make a springfield mil spec more accurate

Status
Not open for further replies.

briney11

Member
Joined
Jul 29, 2006
Messages
171
Location
The Hawkeye State-IOWA
I just shot a club match with my Mil Spec and didn't do so hot. This thing is way less accurate than the Kimber Custom 2 that I :barf: sold:banghead::barf:. Is there any way that I can make this more accurate without buying a new gun, going to a gunsmith, or spending a bunch of money? This is my only handgun by the way.
 
I have a Mil Spec. Mine was a very good gun, but a little underwhelming.

Added a Ed Brown barrel and bushing. Took a long time fitting it. Think bank vault.
Added Kings target sights. Basic sights, they stick up like rabbet ears. You can see them.
Trigger job. Like the barrel, it took a long time to get it just right, worth the effort.

Now I have a great 1911. It's not very impressive in the looks department. But it shoots great.
 
Does it have consistent groups? Right or left hand fired? Where is point of impact differing from aim point? What ranges? Is the inaccuracy consistent across all ranges and different types / brands of ammunition?
 
Unless your gun has been shot many times i would say it is unloikely that it is unaccurate. My guess is the trigger may need a little help. If your slide does not rattle when you shake it then at most maybe a different barrel bushing.
 
One more thing you can check. With no ammo in the gun, push down on the barrel through the ejection port. It should not move any at all.
 
A Mil Spec barrel is not a match fit barrel. One may luck out and get a barrel nicely fit. SA has actually been turning those out with noticeable frequency. Typically the opposite is the case. Some tasks are simple to do, some may be beyond what you want to or feel comfortable doing.

As always, do bench checks with an unloaded pistol. Remove the slide from the pistol and the barrel from the slide. Install just the bushing in the slide. Attempt to move it side to side, up and down. If there is perceptible movement you need a closer fit bushing to eliminate movement. Place the bushing close to the muzzle end of the barrel. If you can make up/down, side to side movement, that needs to be eliminated as well. You may take on the task of fitting a match bushing yourself. If you are proficient with calipers, you may measure the barrel OD (outside diameter) and the slide tunnel ID (inside diameter). Browsing Brownell's website you'll find a fit just at or close to your measurements. You may also call or web order a bushing custom fit to your measured dimensions.

Suggestion was made in post #6 which is sound. If that is the case Wilson Combat produces a Group Gripper which replaces the barrel link and recoil spring guide. I have used these but not a big fan. If thus doesn't work out or you choose another route, you'll need a barrel replacement. I've used Brown, Wilson, Chip McCormick semi or enhanced fit barrels. The best system is just that, a Kart EZ-Fit (also called the Exact-Fit). A very nice system to use.

What is left is a true full gunsmith fit barrel. This is the ultimate. Get someone who really knows the 1911 for best results. There is a process to fitting it and someone unfamiliar with that process will get less than satisfactory results.






barrels which are
 
You will probably need or want a new barrel, but it will be a waste without good sights and a good trigger. Start there. Sights first, then trigger, then barrel/bushing.
 
Every 1911 that I have examined over the past 10 years or so amazed me at how well everything was fitted. Much better than most Colt's of 40 years ago for sure. A little trigger work and some decent sights should have you smiling.
 
Hey, if you ae going to club matches, ask around a bit. Good chance there will be a 1911 guy that either enjoys working on them or can at least look your gun over for you and see if there are any obvious problems. I dont know how much experiance you have shooting handguns, but the trigger has everything to do with how easy or hard it is to get a nice group. A 1911 is capable of having the best trigger pull as any auto there is. Dont get discouraged, 1911's often take a bit of tinkering. They are sort of like a old Harley shovelhead, need a lot of wrenching but when you get them right, they are as sweet as they get.
 
I just shot a club match with my Mil Spec and didn't do so hot. This thing is way less accurate than the Kimber Custom 2 that I :barf: sold:banghead::barf:. Is there any way that I can make this more accurate without buying a new gun, going to a gunsmith, or spending a bunch of money? This is my only handgun by the way.
Sell it and buy target grade 1911.
 
What size groups are you shooting? What ammo?

Before you go spending money do you have a friend who shoots 1911s well? If so, have him or her shoot your gun and compare those groups with yours. If they are the same think of accurizing or replacing. If their's are smaller, it's you not the gun.

Most of the "this gun isn't accurate" issues I've dealt with are the shooter not the gun.
 
While I haven't had my hands on a large number of them, SA mil specs seemed fitted pretty good for what they were - but their triggers were terrible.

I had a local 'smith do a triggerjob on mine, and unless I shot from a rest, it was as accurate as any of my Kimbers.
 
As far as the SA Mil spec I have, the trigger was heavy and so by the time it broke, I had pulled it off target. Was going to have it worked over then decided before dropping it off a lighter sear spring might be worth a try. That lighter spring made the difference in my groupings. It now breaks at about 3.75#'s. Also removed the short trigger for a long one and that also helped. $35 was pretty reasonable to make this gun easier to shoot.:)
 
Accuracy is an outcome

of mechanical tightness and function and then shooter interface and practise.
1. Practise
2. tighten barrel lockup (bushing, breech); fitted ($) barrel). (Kart? Bar-Sto? Wilson Combat or other drop-in kit)? (in order of decreasing expense...)
3. Enhance control input (trigger job?) Gunsmiths like to do trigger job and safeties as one job as they need some synching),
4 sights.
You tend to learn the gun (it is accurate; you may need different sight hold or technique to put rounds where you want them; an outcome of practise with that perticular piece).
There are aftermarket enhanced fit bushings; Ed Brown has a drop in you might try I believe (in all my Commanders, anyway).
A better barrel might be a way to go; or the best way that involves spending money. (I had a good Colt barrel in my last Mil-Spec).
Improved barrel and lockup cry out for trigger job and sights; might as well;
The solution is money if your experience does not allow you to do it with practise and improved fitting replacement drop-in parts.
Perhaps it is best to decide what you want to spend money on rather than trying not to do it, otherwise your best solution is to buy something meant to be competitive (or a Glock; G21 is more accurate out of the box than most shooters can shoot).
I have owned several SA MS's and found them accurate even with 2 pc barrel (when they came in cardboard and foam).
I have owned several G21's
Current go-to is Kimber Super-Carry Pro or S&W Performance Center 4563 CQB
J
 
Last edited:
1. A Glock will not hold the 10 ring at 50 yards
2. 50 yards is very relevant if you are shooting bullseye.
3. Sell the gun and buy a match-grade gun.
 
I'd think step one would be to get the problem quantified.

Briney, when you say inaccurate, what do you mean? Are we talking 10 inch groups at 25 yards or something else?

Knowing the Mil-Spec pretty well, I'd think (once the problem is understood) to think about a modest trigger job and better sights. Following that, 50 dry fires a day will do wonders for you, Briney.

On the Glock 21 question, I was shocked and I mean *shocked* at the accuracy of a G21 fired from a mechanical rest. If I was not there in person I'd not have believed it myself.
 
I'm quite surprised to read your MilSpec isn't as accurate as your Kimber. I've had two Mil Spec Springfields and a couple of Kimbers and all were very accurate shooters.

My MilSpec Springers had Les Baer like barrel bushing fit, and they sure could shoot. One thing I had to remember with the milspec was the short trigger, but even so, they still shot very well and I plan on getting another one.
 
You probably want something like this;

Base gun is mil-spec Springfield Armory. It has;

Action job with Videki trigger and new sear.

Novak adjustable rear sight and front sight with gold bead.

Bar-sto barrel and bushing.

Guaranteed to give 2" groups at 25 yards.

All it takes is $$$$.

S.A.%201911%20Blue%20Left%20Side_zpsmfjiffur.gif
 
Last edited:
Well, not my experience with 3 G21s...

But the pic looks a lot like the last Mil-Spec I sold off; I agree with the above post: what do you mean by inaccurate? All over the road or just not doing what you want it to? Mil-Spec was not designed to be competition-ready out of the box (perhaps look at trading up for a Range Officer)? I think most of us would think of it as a "platform gun" for customization, and take something else to the range. 1911s' may not be as accurate as other guns, but they can be made to be extremely accurate.
WADR: Did you maybe take the gun to the match before you had learned its' idiosyncrasies well enough (to get hits with it consistently in 10 ring at match distances)? Several of us have had very tight MS guns though. (Me too), Unless you did or you are very good, (and thus should have known better) Methinks you asked too much of the gun. Mil-Specs beg for improvement. They offer a good "platform" to start paying for it.
Otherwise I think we're talking $ for:
Range-time (Practise) Play "Chase the bullet hole."
Custom Barrel & bushing fit by gunsmith (or a very good drop-in).
Trigger job & safeties (SA tangs have to be welded up and recut for aftermarket BTG safety with Wilson or Ed Brown; EGW makes one that doesn't require that) SA makes their own for "loaded" guns.
Aftermarket sights; I prefer Novak or Heinie fixed.
J
PS: re barrel and bushing: I looked last night and Bar-Sto is still incredibly cheap and probably the best there is.
Definitely a competitive mod.
 
Last edited:
Let someone who shoots a 1911 a lot see if your gun is as bad as you think it is. I had a Sig p 220 put in a ransom rest that shot about as good as a pistol can shoot and I thought I had a problem with a worn lock up. Well, no, it was me. I can't shoot a p 220 very well. I think it's the combat sights. I can shoot my Gold Cup just fine.
 
Last edited:
I just shot a club match with my Mil Spec and didn't do so hot. This thing is way less accurate than the Kimber Custom 2 that I sold. Is there any way that I can make this more accurate without buying a new gun, going to a gunsmith, or spending a bunch of money? * * *

Yes. Learn to reload, because you'll save huge $$$ over factory .45 ammo. Then crank-out an a$$-ton of reloads to practice with. Then go shoot them up while learning to shoot your Springer Mil-Spec correctly.

Over time your scores will improve, and you'll end up winning your club matches. Soon afterward you'll be dating supermodels. :scrutiny:

Eventually, even Vlad Putin will think you're the most interesting man in the world. :evil:
 
In the early '70s I had this Colt National Match barrel fitted to a WWII Remington Rand slide. The only parts I had were GI surplus ordered in the mid-late '60s.

M1911RemingtonRandupperwithColtNMba_1.jpg

Some years ago on another website there was a lot of trash talk about 1911s in general, a platform that I had trained, qualified and carried. During this time frame I acquired a Springfield Armory GI at cost because the person who ordered it failed the background check. The extractor was so far out of spec that it rotated, ended up ordering a Wilson extractor and Ed Brown firing pin stop.

While waiting for the parts to arrive, I put the Colt NM barrel and Remington Rand slide on top (all GI surplus) of the GI frame, tight lock up. I was very surprised at the accuracy and grouping of SWCs, ball and various brand JHPs.....various bullet weights, factory and handloaded ammunition, plus several different makes of magazines. Flawless performance and I beat on it, even with the finger barrel bushing.

Don't know about the OP's mil spec issues, but it shouldn't take that much fitting to fix the accuracy issues. From 7 yards in sights aren't needed, so the OP should be able to get a basic group size.

Keep us informed. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top