How do I read a .223 headspace gage?

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Rushthezeppelin

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So I finally got all my stuff in to start reloading for me AR. Dillon headspace gage came in today and I had a question about how to accurately read it. So I know basically if its above or below the steps you need to resize more or toss the case. Pretty obvious if it's above the top step but I'm having trouble figuring out if a case is below or right at the lower step given the bevel on the head of the cartridge. Is it basically only if it's obviously below that you scrap one or is there some special way to determine if it's a hair below without using the depth measurement on my caliper?
 
Use a straight edge or feel it with a fingernail.
I can see it. You might get used to it.

Three things that will trip you up is mixed brass, case lube and range pickup brass. If you run all the same headstamp and use good case lube you should get consistent results.

If you a new to reloading buy some new brass to start with.

After that it is about being consistent in what you do.
 
I've been reloading 9mm for a few months but I'm totally new to rifle cartridges. So if it isn't noticeably below the bottom step, like you can clearly see the inside its good? Anyone have some pictures they can show of one right at the step and one just barely too far below for comparison?
 
I just bought the last one my lgs head for .223, it's the dillon gage. You tube has some good videos on it.
 
Okay I was searching under wrong terms and didn't see those videos. The clear it up for me a little more I suppose. Seems I'm headspacing really darn consistent even with mixed headstamps so far. Only sized about 35 up and loaded one so far with 24.4gr IMR4895 behind a dogtown 55gr HP. Wish I could get a bit more variety with my pro autodisk in double disk mode. Dual .88 cavities were throwing 22.8gr which is .2gr under start charge and the next one up (.95s) is throwing that 24.4gr charge. At least it's really consistent with the IMR4895 though. Might have to do some custom cavities or tap one of the disks for a set screw to do fine tuning with so I can actually do decent load workup.
 
Use your calipers like a depth gauge to measure how far below the top of the gauge the case head is.

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^^^^ This! Walkalong nailed it. I used the depth gage on my calipers for a while. I found a machinist that had a depth gage for sale local, and I picked it up for this operation. The depth gage on your calibers will work just as good.
 
Well I figured out how to get very accurate reading with my gage (as long as I keep the darn thing clean). Using a 10x jewelers loupe I can very clearly tell when things are out of spec on both ends. Glad I found that cheapo loupe set at HF a few months back, those things are worth their weight in gold (even if they don't weigh much lol).

Boy, checking spec on rifle cases sure is tedious though. I bet the average 223 is taking me about 5-10 times as long as the average 9mm. It will be rewarding though when I print some really good groups with my AR I'm sure.

Got 3 batches loaded up for development. IMR4895 under Dogtown 55gr HPs seated to 2.255, just enough to fit into my PMags I found out (they must have VERY consistent ogives because my OALs have not varied more than a thousandth, most being right at 2.255). Got sets of 9 for 22.5gr, 23.0gr and 23.5gr. Going to do 3 3 shot groups of each and see how everything works out hopefully tomorrow. Wish me luck and no kabooms.
 
Using a 10x jewelers loupe I can very clearly tell
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If you ever see one of those old slide projectors being thrown away, get the lens out of it. Break it down into its individual pieces. They make great "loupes". Very clear. Always keep your eye out for anything in the trash with a lens on it.

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