How do I reduce the diameter of the end of a shotgun magazine tube?

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1KPerDay

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So, for a couple of years I've been working on piecing together the parts to make a "mini-defender" out of a spare winchester 1300 Youth model, 20 gauge. I got the Defender barrel in 20 gauge for a good price, eventually found a long magazine tube (for those who don't know the 12 and 20 gauge have the same magazine tube; the throats are different). Today I was able to use the "standard" method to drive the short mag tube into the receiver, remove the mag tube throats, make a slide hammer out of a 6" section of 1" steel pipe, and use it to pull the short tube from the receiver.

The new longer mag tube didn't enjoy being driven into the receiver, so much so that I broke my rubber mallet, and despite several layers of cardboard and tape to protect the mag cap from a steel hammer (which was the only thing that transferred sufficient force to drive the tube into the receiver), I deformed the cap and bent the end of the magazine tube a little before it would go into the receiver. Got the new throat threaded on, was able to muscle the mag cap off to slide on the slide hammer, got the cap on, and was able to slide hammer the new magazine tube out far enough to seat the mag tube throat. Perhaps a smarter person than I would have stopped there, driven the tube back in, removed the throat, and pulled the ruined tube out. I didn't.

PROBLEM: End of new mag tube is out of round and/or buckled enough to not be able to install new barrel. I tried to sort of mandrel the buckled portion out with the handle of a socket extension, and it worked, but now there's a slight funnel shape at the end of the tube and the cap won't thread on, nor will the barrel ring fit over. So now I have installed a tube but have no way to give up and go back to the original mag tube, nor use the defender barrel and the new mag tube.

You can chide and laugh all you want, but I was hoping to complete this install myself, I enjoy solving mechanical puzzles, and I did follow the recommended procedure.

So: is there a way to reduce the diameter of the end of the mag tube without destroying it, or rendering the threads useless? I need a tapered 1" ID forming die or something.

I tried carefully squeezing around the OD with a padded vise and an almost 1" steel die inside to prevent me from really crushing it, but I either wasn't aggressive enough or it didn't work. The OD of the tube needs to be 1.00". Barrel ring is approximately 1.02" ID but that's not using pin gauges, just a caliper. The end of the mag tube measures 1.012 at the widest and .998" at the narrowest but the barrel ring will not slip over nor will the mag cap thread on so obviously I've ovaled it somewhat. I feel if I could get it tot he point where I could catch the cap threads I might be able to muscle it back on and hopefully squeeze it back to round or at least to the point where it will hold and I can either use it as is or give up, drive it back in and out and go back to the standard tube.

Long and boring story but what would the smarter (than I) guys here do?

I'll save the wags the trouble:
1. throw away that POS 1300 and get a real shotgun
2. just mash the tube flat in a vise and turn it into an expensive screwdriver
3. haw haw you're an idjit! You should have used a 2-ton press to install that thar mag toob
 
I'm thinking something like a radiator hose clamp, tighten it as much as possible and then lightly tappy-tappy on the body of the clamp to try to reduce the diameter. Would there be something more heavy duty than a hose clamp that might work? How about something round and tapered to tap into the open end of the tube?
 
So, for a couple of years I've been working on piecing together the parts to make a "mini-defender" out of a spare winchester 1300 Youth model, 20 gauge. I got the Defender barrel in 20 gauge for a good price, eventually found a long magazine tube (for those who don't know the 12 and 20 gauge have the same magazine tube; the throats are different). Today I was able to use the "standard" method to drive the short mag tube into the receiver, remove the mag tube throats, make a slide hammer out of a 6" section of 1" steel pipe, and use it to pull the short tube from the receiver.

The new longer mag tube didn't enjoy being driven into the receiver, so much so that I broke my rubber mallet, and despite several layers of cardboard and tape to protect the mag cap from a steel hammer (which was the only thing that transferred sufficient force to drive the tube into the receiver), I deformed the cap and bent the end of the magazine tube a little before it would go into the receiver. Got the new throat threaded on, was able to muscle the mag cap off to slide on the slide hammer, got the cap on, and was able to slide hammer the new magazine tube out far enough to seat the mag tube throat. Perhaps a smarter person than I would have stopped there, driven the tube back in, removed the throat, and pulled the ruined tube out. I didn't.

PROBLEM: End of new mag tube is out of round and/or buckled enough to not be able to install new barrel. I tried to sort of mandrel the buckled portion out with the handle of a socket extension, and it worked, but now there's a slight funnel shape at the end of the tube and the cap won't thread on, nor will the barrel ring fit over. So now I have installed a tube but have no way to give up and go back to the original mag tube, nor use the defender barrel and the new mag tube.

You can chide and laugh all you want, but I was hoping to complete this install myself, I enjoy solving mechanical puzzles, and I did follow the recommended procedure.

So: is there a way to reduce the diameter of the end of the mag tube without destroying it, or rendering the threads useless? I need a tapered 1" ID forming die or something.

I tried carefully squeezing around the OD with a padded vise and an almost 1" steel die inside to prevent me from really crushing it, but I either wasn't aggressive enough or it didn't work. The OD of the tube needs to be 1.00". Barrel ring is approximately 1.02" ID but that's not using pin gauges, just a caliper. The end of the mag tube measures 1.012 at the widest and .998" at the narrowest but the barrel ring will not slip over nor will the mag cap thread on so obviously I've ovaled it somewhat. I feel if I could get it tot he point where I could catch the cap threads I might be able to muscle it back on and hopefully squeeze it back to round or at least to the point where it will hold and I can either use it as is or give up, drive it back in and out and go back to the standard tube.

Long and boring story but what would the smarter (than I) guys here do?

I'll save the wags the trouble:
1. throw away that POS 1300 and get a real shotgun
2. just mash the tube flat in a vise and turn it into an expensive screwdriver
3. haw haw you're an idjit! You should have used a 2-ton press to install that thar mag toob

Can you just file carefully around the end to get it below 1". 12 thousandths isn't that much material. A picture would help as I am not familiar with that shotgun.

Good luck.
Lnk
 
If you have one, or know someone with a lathe, see if a collet of the right diameter is available. Then insert the tube into the collet (while the collet is in the headstock of the lathe) and gently, a little at a time, tighten the collet onto the tube. You will be compressing the entire tube at once, rather than applying tap-taps which will only stretch more metal and make the problem worse. A friendly machine shop might do this for you, because there would be no danger for their machines.
 
Ok I'll look into it. Haven't considered cutting the end off. That might actually work. The bulge is in the first 1/8" or so.

A tapered thing inserted into the open end is what caused the current problem. I need a reverse tapered die to push the end into.

However, cutting a bit off might do the trick. I just need enough to firmly catch the threads on the front portion past the barrel ring. Hmmm. I'll think about that. Thanks all!
 
If you have one, or know someone with a lathe, see if a collet of the right diameter is available. Then insert the tube into the collet (while the collet is in the headstock of the lathe) and gently, a little at a time, tighten the collet onto the tube. You will be compressing the entire tube at once, rather than applying tap-taps which will only stretch more metal and make the problem worse.

^^^^ Best idea put forth so far. Consistent even pressure simultaneously on all points around the entire circumference.
 
Ok I'll look into it. Haven't considered cutting the end off. That might actually work. The bulge is in the first 1/8" or so.

A tapered thing inserted into the open end is what caused the current problem. I need a reverse tapered die to push the end into.

However, cutting a bit off might do the trick. I just need enough to firmly catch the threads on the front portion past the barrel ring. Hmmm. I'll think about that. Thanks all!
No flack here, I had a 12GA Defender- liked it a lot. Quality was better then the 870s or 500s being produced today.
 
If the bulge is only in the first 1/8" or so, how about a tiny longitudinal relief cut in the tube that would allow you to start the cap? Can't imagine that it would take much to get the cap started at that point.
 
Another good idea. I'm glad the forums exist... I tend to get stuck inside my own head. Since there's a fold/bulge on one side where the cap collapsed I think I'm going to try to cut 1/8" or so off. However, I may try a relief cut first to see if that does it.
 
I have a pipe cutter which I have modified by replacing the cutting wheel with a third smooth roller. I have used it to roll bulges out of shotgun barrels. Might work on your tube.
 
Possibly and if the bulge/fold were further down the tube I'd try that. It's basically right at the end or one thread back from the end and without bending it out/stretching it I can't see how I can get it straight again. And if I do that, the rifling and the end is still slightly funnel shaped and I'm back to the same problem. I think in this particular case cutting off 1/8-1/4" and dressing the threads will be an effective remedy with no downside that I can think of.
 
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