BWS
Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2017
- Messages
- 763
Probably have about 50 moulds. Which covers most of the bases here for the guns. Missing a 6.5mm for a M/S 6.5X54 but no hurry.
Intended purpose starts the process. Weight with a very sharp eye on design.... rifles=bore riders for me with but a mighty few exceptions. Revolvers are pretty easy as they'll usually work with almost any style/design. The 1911's are my "babies" and get much more attention these days. Short,lite SWC with a well defined upper drive band edge. This is what I register off of when sizing and subsequent seating. Get that edge dialed in and set your spring rate to nudge it into a lite jam upon chambering and watch the accuracy. Not busting on RN but,if you're looking for one hole groups,make it a SWC for me.
As alluded to above on the .45..... when shopping for bore rider rifle moulds;
I need to be able to "work" with the dropped bullet. How long is the base? Enough meat there to run the bases across the mill for squaring and weight reduction? The nose... what ogive #'s does it have? How easy to change through swaging? Drive band width to groove ratio..... what kind of groove,and it's location?
Not real scientific,WAY more seat of the pants. And there's no telling what the dropped bullet is going to "be" till its cast. Will say,the most perfectly round mould here is a particular Lee 225-55..... the worst is a RCBS. Is that an endorsement?....or reason to stay away from RCBS? Heck no.... have one RCBS 7mm mould,it's their 145g silhouette that with very little massaging,out of essentially a "stock" SPS R700 that will embarrass 90% of jacketed shooters it's that accurate.
Have one really doggy Lee 44 cal GC mould.... been back to Lee. I wouldn't give it away it's that bad. It is the reason I snagged an old minty Lyman 429244 a cpl weeks ago. So there's another reason one might snag a particular mould?
Intended purpose starts the process. Weight with a very sharp eye on design.... rifles=bore riders for me with but a mighty few exceptions. Revolvers are pretty easy as they'll usually work with almost any style/design. The 1911's are my "babies" and get much more attention these days. Short,lite SWC with a well defined upper drive band edge. This is what I register off of when sizing and subsequent seating. Get that edge dialed in and set your spring rate to nudge it into a lite jam upon chambering and watch the accuracy. Not busting on RN but,if you're looking for one hole groups,make it a SWC for me.
As alluded to above on the .45..... when shopping for bore rider rifle moulds;
I need to be able to "work" with the dropped bullet. How long is the base? Enough meat there to run the bases across the mill for squaring and weight reduction? The nose... what ogive #'s does it have? How easy to change through swaging? Drive band width to groove ratio..... what kind of groove,and it's location?
Not real scientific,WAY more seat of the pants. And there's no telling what the dropped bullet is going to "be" till its cast. Will say,the most perfectly round mould here is a particular Lee 225-55..... the worst is a RCBS. Is that an endorsement?....or reason to stay away from RCBS? Heck no.... have one RCBS 7mm mould,it's their 145g silhouette that with very little massaging,out of essentially a "stock" SPS R700 that will embarrass 90% of jacketed shooters it's that accurate.
Have one really doggy Lee 44 cal GC mould.... been back to Lee. I wouldn't give it away it's that bad. It is the reason I snagged an old minty Lyman 429244 a cpl weeks ago. So there's another reason one might snag a particular mould?
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