I'm not interested in what solvents or what types of rods you use. I'd like to know what attachments you use on your rod or otis cable and how you use patches and/or jags.
How do you clean your rifle bore?
- Thread starter Andrewsky
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I use an Otis kit or a one piece brass or carbon fibre rod with brass tips; cotton patches. Foam copper remover.
Beyond an Otis kit, Dewey rod, and brass brush, I like using the patch worm kit:
http://20-20.8m.com/patchworm.html
And with my 12g shot gun, AR and .22 rifles I use these felt buttons:
http://20-20.8m.com/newprod1.html
http://20-20.8m.com/patchworm.html
And with my 12g shot gun, AR and .22 rifles I use these felt buttons:
http://20-20.8m.com/newprod1.html
foaming cleaner, the best thing going, leave on for 10 minutes, patch out , repeat, and heck , put the cleaner everywhere you want. Comes out squeaky, and i mean a litteral ear splitting, SQUEAK!!!! -y clean.
DMK
Member
I'm mostly a traditionalist I guess. I use a Coated (for 30cal) or stainless (for 22) one piece Dewey rod with a jag and patch. If I'm shooting corrosive, the barrel gets liberally flushed with Windex from the chamber end, muzzle down. Then I patch it dry. I start cleaning with a Hoppe's #9 soaked patch, one wet patch, one dry patch, one wet patch. Let it soak a few minutes so the solvent can do it's work while I clean the bolt, action, gas tube, etc with an old toothbrush. I wipe the outside of the gun down with oil to replace any that was wiped or cooked off. Then I run a brass brush through 5-10 times, then wet patch, dry patch until clean. Finally, I run a couple patches with FP-10 oil through using the jag. Reassemble and I'm done.
Every once in a while I'll soak the bore overnight in Hoppe's to clean up the copper or stubborn fouling. In that case, I use a looped patch holder to "swab" the bore with solvent.
I do use a boresnake with FP-10 on my 22LR guns or now and then when I only shot a couple rounds through a centerfire.
Every once in a while I'll soak the bore overnight in Hoppe's to clean up the copper or stubborn fouling. In that case, I use a looped patch holder to "swab" the bore with solvent.
I do use a boresnake with FP-10 on my 22LR guns or now and then when I only shot a couple rounds through a centerfire.
I use a brass loop, brass jag, and bronze brushes. Depends on how funky the bore is. If it's mild, I'll just use a bore snake. CLP and #9 are my preferred cleaners.
After countless jags and a 1/2 hour of cleaning, even with some nasty Montana Extreme Copper Killer and soaking with Hoppes, I have not been able to get clean patches out of my M1 Garand bore. 50 years of crud is a lot. My WASR bore, which I've had since new, cleans up very quickly and nicely.
After countless jags and a 1/2 hour of cleaning, even with some nasty Montana Extreme Copper Killer and soaking with Hoppes, I have not been able to get clean patches out of my M1 Garand bore. 50 years of crud is a lot. My WASR bore, which I've had since new, cleans up very quickly and nicely.
armoredman
Member
Bore snake, normal ammo/useage. If corrosive ammo, Windex, soak, brush, clean, then clean normally with bore brush and solvent.
I have a Tipton rod, using patches, and a nylon brush (though for my Makarov it is a copper brush as I recall). My biggest portion of cleaning I would say is left to Hoppes Elite Foaming gun cleaner (manufactured by Pantheon Chemical ~same formula for the Mpro 7 as I recall). Works great and is water based (though I still like shooting a little bit of water down my Mosin Nagant bores...
SSN Vet
Member
I use a boresnake for just about everything...They are just so much more convenient than patches/rods...Although if I am cleaning multiple rifles in the same caliber(only have 1 boresnake for each cal) I will run a patch or two down each individual rifle, so my boresnake doesn't get too dirty before I'm done cleaning.
I use Dewey (rods, jags, and brushes). Only cotton flannel patches and Shooters Choice for fouling before storage. Occasionally, when accuracy drops off, I'll use a bit of Sweets. Always, always, always use a bore guide.
I've also tried the foaming cleaners and they're really fast and easy. Unfortunately, I don't feel you need that level of cleanliness after every range session.
I subscribe to the theory of "less cleaning and more shooting".
Ed
I've also tried the foaming cleaners and they're really fast and easy. Unfortunately, I don't feel you need that level of cleanliness after every range session.
I subscribe to the theory of "less cleaning and more shooting".
Ed
I have a recipe for cleaning a barrel after shooting corrosive ammo my dad passed on to me....1 cup of ammonia added to a gal of almost boiling water. (Don't add the ammonia until your ready to flush) pour it thru a funnel from the action end. Patch dry immediately,then clean it using your favored method/solvents. It may seem like overkill, but I personally can vouch for results.
I use brass rods, although aluminum would be better. I only use a brass brush if I absolutely have to. I used to use a separate copper solvent, but Hoppe's No.9 apparantly has a copper solvent in it. It will naturally attack your brass rods, so there is the need for aluminum. I was going to get a plastic coated rod, but since the knurled end protruded beyond the rod itself, there was the danger of scratching the bore with the end piece. If the ammunition is corrosive, I use windex first. I also use EZOX, a lubricant with a dry film lubricant when it dries, to clean chamber areas and bolt sliding areas.
1.I use a bore snake 2-3 times through the barrel, just to get all the thick stuff out.
2.I take a bore mop, soak it in solvent and run it through the barrel a couple times, after that I use a bore brush and go in and out about 10 times.
3.After that I use a cleaning jag and a little 1"X1" cleaning patch that fits on the end. I use about 2-3 of these and repeat step 2 about twice with step 3 after.
4. I finally run a cleaning patch again with a little bit of ATF on it to keep the barrel oiled.
This process takes about 40 minutes, and works well.
If theres something I'm doing wrong and the guru's see it in my post, please tell me! I'm new at this too.
2.I take a bore mop, soak it in solvent and run it through the barrel a couple times, after that I use a bore brush and go in and out about 10 times.
3.After that I use a cleaning jag and a little 1"X1" cleaning patch that fits on the end. I use about 2-3 of these and repeat step 2 about twice with step 3 after.
4. I finally run a cleaning patch again with a little bit of ATF on it to keep the barrel oiled.
This process takes about 40 minutes, and works well.
If theres something I'm doing wrong and the guru's see it in my post, please tell me! I'm new at this too.
Brent - pretty good to me
Brent,
I use a heavily oiled patch instead of the boresnake but my technique is similar. Boresnakes are great for light cleaning, I'm running them 2 - 3 times also.
Tetra or Dewey rods, bore guide when possible. Wipe down rod in between passes.
I'll do 3 - 4 brush passes, patch, brush, patch, maybe 1 more bore brush & patch. I don't worry about the patch coming out totally clean, although MPro 7 did a remarkable job.
Copper solvent every once in a while.
I use a CLP gun oil, Tetra, not ATF. I'd worry about ATF mixing with any other chemicals, my experience is that the additives can precipitate. But I worry too much about that sort of thing, probably not a concern here.
Good of you to ask, Andrewsky. I see wisdom in these threads that I wish I knew 20 years ago, esp about the rods & guides.
Brent,
I use a heavily oiled patch instead of the boresnake but my technique is similar. Boresnakes are great for light cleaning, I'm running them 2 - 3 times also.
Tetra or Dewey rods, bore guide when possible. Wipe down rod in between passes.
I'll do 3 - 4 brush passes, patch, brush, patch, maybe 1 more bore brush & patch. I don't worry about the patch coming out totally clean, although MPro 7 did a remarkable job.
Copper solvent every once in a while.
I use a CLP gun oil, Tetra, not ATF. I'd worry about ATF mixing with any other chemicals, my experience is that the additives can precipitate. But I worry too much about that sort of thing, probably not a concern here.
Good of you to ask, Andrewsky. I see wisdom in these threads that I wish I knew 20 years ago, esp about the rods & guides.
20 minute wipe out soak, 3-4 patches on a nickel plated pierce type jag with a Pro-Shot coated rod, no need for brushes
Fatelvis
Member
I like the caliber specific Parker Hale style cleaning jags, with a wet/dry patch wrapped around it.
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