How do you sharpen your knife?

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MCgunner

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As in, what do you use? Tradition is a rock I suppose. I've had all manor of rocks, bought these ceramic sticks and they are, well, okay, but fine sharpening and take a while if it's really dull. I had one of these carbide sharpener things, don't know where it went, was a rather course sharpener, but got an edge on quick.

Then, I got this thing at wallyworld one day and, well, I like it, it works! It's a carbide sharpener on one side and a ceramic sharpener on the other. You whip out a quick sharp blade on the carbide side, then smooth it with the ceramic side. It works great and doesn't take long! Pretty safe, too, in a plastic handle that keeps your hand away from the blade you're working on.

So, I'm bettin' there are traditionalists here that scoff at anything, but rocks, but just how do YOU sharpen your blades?
 
Had to take and crop one.

Brand is "Smith's"

8063PICT0178.JPG
 
Lansky sharpening system. there are two different ones, one with stones and the other with diamonds. I have the stone one, it cost about $40 and works really well. I like the fact that you can change the angle to suit filet knives, hunting knives, utility knives, etc.
 
I use a japanese water stone for mine, it was pricy.... 8000 grit though. I wouldn't sharpen anything but sharp knives with it or you'll be there all day.

You need a selection. For things like Axes and Shovels I use concrete or a grinder to get the edge kinda formed then I go back with a file and begin work. I've got a shovel sharp enough to tighten the screws in my glasses now.

I would check out lee valley hardware. They have full sized stones that are actually two stones seemed together so you just have to flip them over. All sorts of configurations.... 4000/8000 or a 4000/6000 would be my recommendation if you want something that you can filet a mosquito with....and all my blades are kept that sharp.

If that's not your cup of tea (or it's too much $$$) go visit Gander mountain and get their FINEST stone it's called super-duper ultra fine grit or soemthing, and it's very very fine. I think it's even finer than my 8000 grit japanese stone that cost me over $100 from a restaurant supplier. You'll need three stones to sharpen ANY blade, a coarsish one, a super dee-duper fine one and one that's in between. Don't ever get a stone that feels like concrete, that's way the heck too coarse.

I have an old kit that I bought at walmart back in 1995 or so that does a pretty good job too.... it doesn't have a fine enough stone to do filet knives, but it works for just a plain old simple pocket knife in a pinch. It came with those damned angle things that aren't worth a hoot, I just don't use them. I'm hoping that I'll pass it on to my grandkids someday and they can talk about how silly the angle things are and we couldn't even hold our blades straight enough to sharpen them.
 
I use a variety of methods. All pretty much freehand. The easiest is a EZE-LAP diamond rod that looks like a half ink pen, followed by a 4" ceramic rod. That will take care of just about anything.

I also use stones. A nice Norton, a nice Arkasas, and a cheap $.99 Store double sided stone. They all work. I gave up oil long ago, mostly use water or just dry. With softer steel chopping tools, I usually use a mill bastard file. Lastly, I use a belt sander for serious steel removal.

Those double sided sharpening gizmos are usually looked down upon by knife nuts. I find the carbide cutters give a rather unrefined edge, but they are sometimes a quick and dirty way to form a reasonable edge grind without having to resort to lots of grinding either by hand or power tool. I used one to make the edge bevel on a Camillus Pilot Survival Knife a more reasonable acute angle. Took little time, much less than by hand on a stone, which just gets used to smooth out the roughness left by the carbide cutters.
 
carbide pull-through gadget from the gun show

followed with 600 grit sandpaper (from the gun show) wrapped around a fat screwdriver shaft

strop across a folded piece of cardboard

start with chainsaw file if edge is in really bad condition
 
If you want to use stones use quality stones. I like the Arkansas (preferably the black - hard to find) for sharpening.

For synthetic sharpeners DMT is great.

Honestly for the average user the Spyderco Sharpmaker is the best option. I love mine.
 
Cripes! And we just finished burying the "samurai shark"!

MCGunner, those kinds of angle sharpeners will do more to harm good blades than sharpen them.

I have pretty-much every version of what's generally available from stones, diamond stones, leather strops, flat leather box sharpener, Spydie Sharpmaker, Lansky system, simple sandpaper but am now using a belt sander with microfine grits and leather belt. I really like sharp blades.
 
DMT diamond stones in coarse and fine, then Arkansas oil stone in ex fine. Sometimes I lap them at the end, depending on the application or if I feel like it. I check my edges with a 10x loupe.
 
With stones. Either by hand or by a Lansky contraption. Both work well. I just sharpen one side until I raise a burr down the entire length of the edge, and flip it around and sharpen the other side to remove the burr. Just don't over-sharpen that side. You don't want to start another burr, just sharpen enough to remove the burr, and it ought to be sharp. Coarse stones work great to get the ball rolling quickly, then I switch to a medium stone, and then to a fine. I remove the burr with a fine stone. Strop it on some good leather with a little fine rouge or Flitz or something, and it'll shave hair.

Jason
 
In order if you will- it depends...

Freehand :

-Piece of Cardboard often times to just strop, a nice magazine, or pages of a book does the same thing.

-My belt, jeans, hands to strop as well...

-Carbon Steel Ice Pick, with wooden handle is often used for a Sharpening Steel.

-Actual Sharpening Steel is used as well.

-Bottom of a ceramic coffee cup.

-Emery boards , especially the ones with two grits, are really handy when out and about, afield, or wherever.

-Various Grits of fine emery paper, atop cardboard.

-Norton India IB6 Stone, when I need to sharpen one a bit more.

Assisted:

-Smith's ceramic crock sticks.

-Rapela's plastic ceramic sticks.
I have a red one, with fine, and a gray with two grits.


Some of my stuff is put up, and some I rarely find I need to use.

My knives used a lot are :
Old Hickory Kitchen knives with Carbon Steel Blades.
Case Barehead Trapper with Carbon Steel Blades.
SAK Classic and Bantam.


No big deal after opening a cardboard box, to strop the knife on the box just opened. ;)
 
Excellent, LOL. We used to get these smooth ceramic bricks from a unit out at Dow Chemical when I worked there that they used in a kiln where they fired magnesium. They were flat and smooth and GREAT for sharpening. I don't know where the one I had went, lost in the move down here no doubt.

Only thing about that ceramic is, you can see the metal build up in it, but you can clean it with SOS pads. Oh, I have a set of those Smith ceramic sticks, too.
 
I use one of 3 things.

Bader3 Grinder with 400 thru 600 grit belts
3/4hp benchgrinder with the paper wheels
Spyderco Sharpmaker for light touch up...

of all 3 I like the paper wheel system best.
$89 for the benchgrinder , $50 for the wheels , and it will last me a long LONG time.
 
A couple of Norton professional size whet Stones, along with some very fine Arkansas Stones, a Forchner Steel and a ceramic steel. Don't put oil on your stones and ruin them use hot water, plenty and often.
 
Sharpening tools

First post, please excuse my ignorance.

Spent many years with whetstones, carborundum, diamond do-dads, ceramics and such. Tried it going in circles, forward and backward--all worked fair to good.

But if you want an edge that makes you count your own fingers, look to leather crafting, something called a head-knife (see Tandy Leather) and cardboard/paper grinding/polishing wheels like can be found at "http://users.ameritech.net/knives/paper.htm"--not the only supplier, just the first google response.

It's not just grinding the edge-you gotta polish it!
 
I use a Sharpmaker as it's easy and gives the customer a known angle and an easy way to maintain the knife. Using the grinder is much easier and faster but harder for the eventual owner to maintain.

I may use a 400 grit belt on the grinder but most edges on working knives don't need to be too fine. People tend to judge sharpness by how the knife cuts hair when ability to do the intended job and maintain an edge are much more important.

Welcome jfdavis58!
 
I agree with all the posts below. All the mentioned techniques can work for you.
I have used carborundum stones, Lansky type sharpeners, natural and synthetic Arkansas and India stones. Oh... and grinders too. The Lansky sharpeners are really good for setting an edge angle but the finest of their stones is still way too coarse unless your intended use is a saw or sythe. A grinder or wheel running over a few linear feet/sec is a killer on edge temper.
After setting the edge, I strop with a 400 grit sandpaper followed by 600 grit to remove the stone grind marks. Then to get a shaving edge, I use a 1000 grit automotive sandpaper to polish the primary bevel. Some woodcarvers then go to a 2000 grit on their tools, so I hear.
I can shave hair with any of the knives I’ve sharpened this way. My Boy Scout, Norlund and Banko hatchets can alternately chop kindling and (then) shave hair (not so well that I’d recommend their use prior to church goin’... just sayin…).
Sandpaper is cheap and the MOST effective system I’ve found. Find yourself a flat piece of glass or a reasonable leather strop to put the paper on.
A 5x -10x loupe is educational as well.
HTH
 
while there are different brands of paper wheels , if you get the ones that are white , they suck and start to mushroom over really quickly leaving a lumpy surface to sharpen on.

these are the ones you want:
http://www.sharpeningwheels.com/products.html

I love em , a friend took his setup one step further and added a leather wheel ( 8" ) to his set up , blades comes off that wicked sharp.

However fine you like your edge , maintain it and never let it get that dull and touch ups will be a breeze.

I like my edges pretty polished , especially on the Stainless steels like S30v , 154cm , etc. The wheels allow me to take a blade with no edge and an edge thickness of say .020 - .028 to being completely sharpened in under 3 minutes easily ( my wrists are shot so I have to take a break to stay steady ).
 
I have used a quick sharpener similar to the yellow one above, Carborundum type stones, Lansky, and steels. All work well if you take some time to learn to use them.

This one works well on knives; it's easy to use and gets a good edge. I gave these to my Mom and sisters for kitchen knives.

Chef's Choice Manual Knife Sharpener

http://www.target.com/gp/detail.html/602-3656710-6949405?asin=B0002HJ0RU&AFID=Froogle&LNM=B0002HJ0RU|Chef's_Choice_Manual_Knife_Sharpener&nAID=14110944&ref=tgt_adv_XSG10001
 
Scary Sharp technique here. Varying degrees of wet/dry sandpaper glued (sticky spray) onto a 12x12 smooth glass or mirror payne. google the technique simple to master

Peace
Steel Talon:cool:
 
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