How is a $120 Remington 11-48 for a starter clays gun?

[MatthewVanitas]

I was at the gunshow and idly looking for a beater 12ga for doing some clay-shooting with friends. Wanted something really basic, and thought a svelte semi-auto 12ga would be the way to go.

Saw a few humpback Rem 11s and the like, and then ran across a Remington 11-48 for $150, bought it for $120. I knew that Winchester, Savage, Stevens and others had put their names onto some pretty blah shotguns, but hadn't heard anything terrible about Remingtons at that point.

The metal is in good shape, buttstock is decent, forend is cracked and repaired with such a heavy layer of epoxy that it looks like somebody sneezed all over it.

I did some reading, and have gotten some pretty mixed reviews of these guns. For many of the smaller parts, there are specific 870 and 1100 parts that work, which is good. Some folks seem to speak fondly of them as beater/starter clays guns. However at least on write-up seemed to imply that it was a pretty inferior design that was discontinued for a good reason, and that the recoil-operated design was pretty unforgiving of any but the sturdiest stance from the shooter.

So, did I really put my foot in it blowing $120 on this creature, or is there a decent chance that it might function decently enough to go blow up clays for a few months until I decide if I like clays enough to get a better shotgun?

 

[sargenv]

I knew a gent that had a 410 gauge 11-48 and can say that he managed to do just fine with it breaking 24 and 25 targets about every time he went out. The 410 is not a 12 gauge mind you, but he never seemed to have it hiccup on him once.

For that kind of money though, you could likely shoot several cases of shells and get the same amount of money back for it that you put into it. Give it a go.

 

[ArmedBear]

For that kind of money though, you could likely shoot several cases of shells and get the same amount of money back for it that you put into it. Give it a go.

My thoughts, too.

Just go shoot it. It's hard to go wrong with a working shotgun for $120. Someone may well buy it for the parts, and pay at least that much, if you want to sell it again.

You'll quickly blow a lot more money on ammo and tickets anyway.

 

[Dave McCracken]

I'll be glad to see you don't lose money on this. Bring it by the house and I'll give you a check for $120 and take it off your unappreciative hands.

It's a long recoil action like the A5. Like the A5 and the Model 11 it succeeded, it lasts nigh forever but offers little recoil mitigation.

In the day, many skeet and trap shooters used these and some still do.

Shoot it for a while and see how it does for you. Chances are you'll like it......

 

[single stack]

Cracked forearms are common on 12 & 20 gauge 11-48's.
Repairs aren't always pretty.
Don't tighten the forearm nut too tightly.
11-48's are good shooters and last a long time.

You may also want to read more about the
friction ring to understand its' orientation for
light and heavy loads. I prefer standard and light loads
for clays.

Good luck with your new acquisition.
Clay sports are fun.

SS

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Any advice on what I need to do before taking this out for the first time? Should I assume that the O-rings or main recoil spring will need replacing? Or should I just disassemble (with manual), do a basic lube/check, reassemble and go see how it shoots?

Any advice on which manual floating around the Net is best? I understand that, although spare parts are few, most expendable parts are compatible with 870 or 1100 parts, is there a compatibility chart somewhere?

 

[otteray]

Remington will send you an ugly poorly scanned manual.
Or try here: http://stevespages.com/page7b.htm
I think that the friction ring is not reversable, unlike another Remington.
I know my 16 ga 11-48 friction ring just fits one way.
Mine does not have an o-ring, either. I think some did, others didn't.
A very important thing to remember is to only very lightly lube the recoil spring and the tube it fits on. Also, look inside the tube for built up crud and gently clean with solvent and a rag on a stick or oversized bore mop. Do not us a metal brush as that may score it and cause carbon to build up even faster! I think that the cap needs it's small holes cleaned out as well with a toothpick or wire, held in the hand.
These are great, reliable and fun to shoot. I score just as well in skeet as when using a modern auto; but stout loads can be painful with the 11-48!
I like the "ka-chunka" sound as the recoil action reloads.

 

[Dave McCracken]

I'm conservative. Surprise, surprise...

I recommend letting a good smith look it over before firing. You may want to have him/her do a deep clean and install new springs and rings. Keep the old ones for spares.

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Out of curiosity, exactly which springs/rings are a concern?

Is it the "action spring" #1, or the "recoil spring and ring assembly" #51?

The only other "ring" I'm seeing is #34, the "friction ring"

Are any of the above the main parts of concern? Are any of those parts compatible with parts from currently-made Rem shotguns, or should I just order from Numrich?


There is also a rather cosmetically beat 30" Rem 1100 at a nearby pawnshop for $299, probably arguable down to $250, would that be a safer/better bet?

 

[Dave McCracken]

1100s are good shotguns too. I'd be more interested in that one IF it was not a high mileage gun. Certain parts in the 1100 get very sharp with use. Adding new springs and an O ring would be cheap insurance.

In the 48, I'd replace #1, 51 and 34, keeping the old ones as spares.

 

[MatthewVanitas]

Cool, I'll probably do a breakdown and lube, check for any clearly frayed parts, and go test-fire with some light trap loads. If it works, I'll take it out shooting with some buddies, if it doesn't I'll buy the two springs and friction ring, replace them, and try again. I believe all three parts are reasonably available/affordable.

For the worn 1100, I have no way of telling if it's been shot for thousands or rounds, or whether the wear is from guy who shot it on two dove-hunting outings and let it roll around in his trunk the rest of the time. It's got a lot of nicks in the wood, lots of spots of corrosion on the receiver and peeling of the anodizing or whatever. Is there any reasonably easy way to tell if it's externally abused but internally clean? I think the pawnshop (major chain) might have a 7-day policy, so I can take home, disassemble and inspect, and return if needed.

 

[Dave McCracken]

Re the 1100, I'm certainly no expert. I'd look for wear on the ejector and bolt.

Crud in the gas system would be another giveaway.

 

[BigBuckMaster]

a 11-48 is a prudy good gun. not as good as a 870 or 1100, but good. nice buy

 

[peacemaker45]

Personally, I'm a bit more partial to the either the humpbacked 11, or the soft shooting 1100, than the middle child, the 11-48.

I've got one of each. Oddly enough, it's the humpback that I tend to grab most often.

~~~Mat