How many Reloading Manuals Do I Need

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You can start with one, especially if you plan to just load a couple of calibers and plan to stick with a few standard loads. I would get the one from your press/die maker (Speer/RCBS, Lee, Lymans, etc.)

But, if you want to try out unfamiliar cartridges, bullet weights, or various powders, then you should have at least three:

- one from your favorite press/die maker
- one from your favorite bullet maker
- one from your favorite powder maker

This way you get some cross-checking just in case
a manual has a typo. I have found loads switched in rows or columns, or just the wrong digit, but was able to check reality in a couple of other manuals.

Of course there are advanced ones like the Any Shot You Want, and Ken Waters Pet Loads, etc.

I have two editions of Lymans, Speer, Nosler, and Hodgdon, Silver Cast, and the new Lee. Plus, I checkout loads on the various maker's web sites for the latest cartridges and powders.
 
GaryL stated

I have Lee's reloading manual and I'm not that impressed with it. He tends to focus on what he thinks are the best combinations for particular calibers, but not necessarily what I have on the shelf to use.

Much of Lee's data appears to be copied from other sources, so I'm not sure how much load development Lee actually does. Then again, he spends most of the book telling you how much better Lee products are than those of other manufacturers. After reading his book, I'm just amazed that RCBS, Redding, Hornady, and Dillon, etc. can manage to stay in business.
 
paperpuncher49 said:
Much of Lee's data appears to be copied from other sources, so I'm not sure how much load development Lee actually does.
:scrutiny:
I think you're right. I was hoping for more variety in the loads. For example, I have a 4lb canister of Herco I picked up cheap, and wanted to try in 45 Colt with a jacketed bullet, but the manual only has loads for 200gr jacketed, and 300gr XTP. I appreciate the data, but its the same data that's in the Alliant manual I picked up for free.


paperpuncher49 said:
Then again, he spends most of the book telling you how much better Lee products are than those of other manufacturers. After reading his book, I'm just amazed that RCBS, Redding, Hornady, and Dillon, etc. can manage to stay in business.
:what:

I noticed exactly the same thing.
 
- one from your favorite press/die maker
- one from your favorite bullet maker
- one from your favorite powder maker

Run&Shoot,

I like this idea. Think I'll go to the gun show tomorrow and pick up a Nosler and Hodgdon Manual.
 
Older manuals are becoming hard to come buy (bad pun...) so I stocked up today. I picked up a bunch of old books and manuals from the 30's and 50's. I think the newest thing I bought was 1964.

Get the old manuals while you can. The new ones are so tamed down that my poor 1930s to 1950s guns don't understand what I am putting in them.
 
How many do you need? None.

How many should you have? A few.

Not just for the load data, but also for all the other stuff contained therein. Especially if you're new to reloading. You might learn something the easy way instead of the hard way.

I have two Speer's, two Hornaday's, one Sierra and one Lyman. Been reloading since 1969.
 
There's lots of good reading in the books. I have several. Some of my powder is over 20 years old, so I use manuals that were published about the same time as it was produced.

One question though, how do you deal with discrepancies in data between the manuals. Dave R said:
In Speer No. 13, the START load for .380acp for some powders is higher than the MAX load for some powders in Hodgdon's magazine/manual.

Do you use the Speer manual for justifying a hot load, or use the Hodgdon manual to be entierly safe?

Confucious say:
Man with one watch always know what time is. Man with two watches never know what time is.

Does the same hold true for load data when you have multiple manuals?
 
That's why you need three. Go with the two that agree more closely.

Man with three watches can formulate a rough idea of what time it is.
 
you can't have to many reloading manuals! it seems like every time i go to look up a new load, it's never in MY books, or if it is one of the components won't be the same. if your like me and always trying out " new bullets" it's just a real hassle not having the written info. so as i said you can't have to many reloading manuals!

Hodgdons has a unique approach they even publish several of the other powder manufacturers data, but they use this info to show you that their powder giver lower pressures at the same weight charges. also Lees manual is very comprehensive , although to the point of being generic on bullet weights. he takes a firm stand on his data, and i have used it alot with sucess.

you wouldn't ask that same questions about guns would you? thats one the wife continually asks me. just how many guns do you need?
 
One from my favorite bullet maker and one from my favorite powder maker. Works for me. But I have many.
 
When reloading manuals do not agree, especially when one has a min load over another's max load, then you have to look closer.

Bullet design and seating depth (or cartridge overall length) are crucial factors affecting pressure. That is why I espcailly like manuals that give the OAL used in the workup for each cartridge listed. If none is listed then I would error on the safe side and assume they seated to max OAL which generally is listed.

The Speer and Lyman manuals are very good about this. They will list several of their bullets for each cartridge and the OAL used for each one which often varies for the same cartridge.

If by some coincidence the manuals used the same OAl and still had widely different powder specs, then it may have to do with the barrel sued. Some use a very tight precision test barrel and chamber which may give a higher pressure for a given amount of powder than a looser hunting rifle or defense handgun barrel chamber.

When in doubt re-read and re-read, think and think, and then act safely. Start with loads on the lower end of the two manuals and gradually work your way up while watching for over-pressure signs.

When I first started handloading I nearly always worked up to the max loads. Over time I learned that in the grand scheme of things the max velocity is not worth the accelerated wear and tear on the gun and brass, and the increased risk of case failure. Now I am happy to find the most accurate load in the mid range of loads. Saves a bit of powder and reduces risk of catastrophic failure or premature wear to almost nil. Best accuracy tends to be toward the higher velocity, but rarely the max load itself. At least in my experience.
 
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