How Much Difference Does Brass Make?

[DMW1116]

I weighed the Federal, Norma, and Hornady 223 brass as sized, measured, and primed. The Norma was a fair bit heavier than the other 2. 100.4 grains vs. 94 to 95 for the Hornady and Federal. I may pull the Norma, maybe not. I'm using a load that is on the lower half of the charge range from my manual, so it should be safe. Would reducing the charge 1/3 to 1/2 grain be advisable?

 

[DMW1116]

I tested sample loads today in the Hornady and Norma brass. Norma had similar results to the Federal brass. The Hornady had 1 flier and 2 really close. (3 shot groups due to lack of primers.) I think that was from me. It happened in groups from the array of loads from the Federal brass before. If it is me, then I have a load between 23 and 24 grains that shoots very well out of this rifle, with 23.5 being optimal so far. It will be a couple weeks before I get back to the range, but I have Frontier 223 and 5.56 and some Lake City brass to try now. I need to load up the rest of my Federal and Norma first though.

 

[DMW1116]

It struck me that all my reloading so far had been with 223 Remington brass. If I change from 223 to 5.56 brass, is there anything I should do different? I'm already having to decrimp the primer pockets on the Federal 223.

 

[Demi-human]

If I change from 223 to 5.56 brass, is there anything I should do different?

There is no difference in brass between .223 & 5.56, as you have found, even some .223 brass is primer crimped.
The difference between the two are in the chamber’s lead and throat.
Treat the brass exactly the same.

 

[DMW1116]

Oh good. I have enough of either Frontier 223 Rem or Lake City 5.56 to use the rest of my primers and I didn't know if there would be a difference. I have enough of the LC to do all of them, but I'd have to mix in some others to finish with the Frontier. I was thinking for consistency the LC might be the way to go, other than the 223 vs 5.56 question. Either will have to be decrimped.

 

[rdnktrkr]

Is it better to check brass by weight or filling with water? I can see how weighing would be a lot faster, is there a good/fast way to check with water?
I'm looking at doing this for 270, 6.5cr, 6.5gr and 30-06.

 

[Demi-human]

Is it better to check brass by weight or filling with water?

Well...

The water method will tell you, on sized brass, what the interior volume is in water mass.

Weighing brass will tell you how much brass they used to make the case with.


Which will, more or less, coincide with the case capacity.
There are ways to use less brass and make a smaller vessel, but they would be laborious.

I am a simple man and simply weigh them.
Or did. When I thought I was good enough to shoot it. And had time to.

 

[Blue68f100]

Is it better to check brass by weight or filling with water? I can see how weighing would be a lot faster, is there a good/fast way to check with water?
I'm looking at doing this for 270, 6.5cr, 6.5gr and 30-06.

For max consistency volume weights should be near the same. You may only notice the difference when shooting at long range, >600 yrds.

What your looking for is brass with all the same internal volume. Weighing the dry weight is just that, does not give you internal volume.

I generally don't sort brass by volume, but will use it to determine if 2 different lots/mfg have the same volume. This will tell you if you mix the brass and use the same load with good results.

 

[Walkalong]

If the brass is all one brand/lot, no need to do anything but weigh it, such as my 6 PPC cases for Benchrest.

I don't weigh brass for my 6 Dasher, just buy quality brass and bullets, and it shoots under 1/2" with most anything, and better with some things.

 

[rdnktrkr]

We go to CMP Talladega and shoot 600yrds and at out property we have steel out to 300 and targets at 800 and 1200 but usually I just shoot the 50 at those. I will try each way again, I've tried the water method before but thought I was just wasting time shooting 300yrd 8" & 12" steel.

 

[JJFitch]

On this forum and a different thread there is a similar subject about accuracy/precision shooting. I mentioned that there are about 20 steps that should be addressed to achieve your level of accuracy/precision. I got "flamed" by forum members because I didn't provide "20" steps. My 20 steps are likely different than yours!
Each shooter must develop their own steps to achieve their level of accuracy/precision. Each shooter must prioritize the value of each step as to the effect on their requirements.
For example is the rifle capable of attaining the accuracy objective?
Is the shooter capable of attaining the accuracy objective?
Are the components we are using capable of attaining the accuracy objective?
Bullets, powder, primers, cases, etc!
Are the reloading tools capable?
Dies, powder drop mechanism, powder measuring device?
Is the reloader capable of repeatable precision reloading?

So when developing accurate/precise loads we must develop our list to achieve our accuracy/precision of accuracy.

The level of accuracy/precision .223 I find interesting is 1 MOA at 200 yards with a mid grade 16 inch AR carbine and "bulk" bullets, W748 powder, (usually available in my neighborhood) once fired brass, Win, Fed, PMC and military! Which means I'm not overly concerned about case capacity since my foundation doesn't warrant that kind of scrutiny!

One of my shooting buddies is shooting 6.5 Creedmoor, 600 yards and uses nothing but virgin brass, Berger 140 grain VLD projectiles and "same batch" powder!

The point of this post is to point to the "20" or so steps shooters are faced with in order to achieve their accuracy/precision objective . Focusing on case capacity without regard to the other steps may be an exercise in "chasing ones tail"!

I case volume important? Yup!

Smiles,