How to fix a loose 1911 ejector

[banjoboyjohn]

for some people, replacing the old ejector with a new one may not be necessary as long as you catch it early before it damages the ejector legs. this is a quick cheap fix for it.

i recommend you ask the manufacturer what they think would be the best course of action. my pistols manufacturer told me how to do it and what compound they used which happened to be red loctite. i usd jb quick since it is stronger and is sill removable be heat. (red loctite breaks down at 500F jb weld breaks down at 300F)

here's the vid on how i did it.

http://youtu.be/uHDuEzgB_Sc

 

[rcmodel]

I would never ever recommend red loctite, or JB weld to hold a 1911 ejector in place.

Sooner or later, a leg will break off, and you will have a hell of a time getting it out of the blind hole, heat or no heat.

Properly fitted, the little cross-pin will hold a properly fitted ejector so it simply cannot move, yet be easily removable if necessary.

Or at least it would if the "manufacture" had made the frame holes & ejector right in the first place.

rc

 

[Mizar]

+1 to rcmodel's post - his point is valid not only for 1911-type pistols... One more thing - if those pliers, used as a hammer, were mine you will be in a lot of trouble.

Boris

 

[Jim K]

OK, maybe one of the 1911 experts can answer a question I have had for a long time: Why does that blind hole have to be blind?

I have gone straight through with a drill smaller than the hole and opened up a way a broken front leg can be driven out from the bottom. The drill comes out in the magazine well and causes no problem. I can't see that drilling it through would weaken the frame any (that part of the frame is not a high stress area anyway). Or is the only answer that Browning did it that way so it must be the right way.

Any thoughts?

Jim

 

[Mizar]

A simple and clever solution.

Boris

 

[banjoboyjohn]

one thing to keep in mind is that springfield glues the ejector in their TRP and professional models. mine is glued AND pinned.

 

[triggerman770]

1911 ejector

"one thing to keep in mind is that springfield glues the ejector in their TRP and professional models. mine is glued AND pinned.

and that smilie will be what a gunsmith will be showing you when yours breaks
not if..but when.
I agree with R.C. on the loctite, simply because I have had a lot of these repairs come in with "it broke again..my buddy who knows about guns fixed it last time"(this will require an extra charge in my shop or he can take it back to his "buddy")

 

[Jim K]

I am not sure why so many ejectors break these days. I never knew a GI ejector to break and it was always considered pretty much a permanent assembly with the frame (like the grip screw bushings and the spring tunnel). I guess it is part of the general idea that if a gun doesn't break, the owner has to take it all apart and break something just for fun.

Jim

 

[triggerman770]

1911 Ejector

the GI ejectors were barstock and not cast or mim. they could "take the beating and keep on ticking"

 

[Jim K]

Good point on the cast. I don't think the cheap stuff is even MIM. Anyway, if one replaces an ejector it is not a bad idea to do what I suggested. Makes removal of the front leg easy (unless some idiot company welded/glued/soldered it in.

BTW, I understand Ruger solved the loose spring tunnel problem by making it part of the frame. That is an easy fix if you are casting the frame, but has the drawback that if the tunnel is damaged, you replace the frame.

Jim