So I'm trying to remove the screws on a gun for the scope mount. It's just the basic screws that fill the holes when you don't have a scope mount on. The rear two came out super easy, but for some reason the front two are rusted and won't come out. I'm not sure how they got rusted since the rest of the gun is near perfect. I've tried spraying Seafoam Deep Creep penetrating oil on there and that doesn't seem to help. It seems that the screws are tight and since the screws are so rusted the heads seem to be soft and trying to turn the screw driver seems like it's just stripping the heads out. Any idea's on how to get these things out?
How to get extremely stuck scope screws out?
- Thread starter slowr1der
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MtnCreek
Member
Do what Robb said. Get an extractor bit (easyout) and follow the instructions that come with it. Make sure you don't 'drill out' the threads!
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
First thing to do is get a properly fitting power screwdriver or better yet, a gunsmith hollow-ground bit that fits the screw slot.
Then place the bit in the screw and whack it several times with a small hammer.
That will usually jar even the tightest screw loose.
If that doesn't work, and you can get access to a drill press?
Chuck the hex-screwdriver bit in the drill and use it to apply downward pressure on the screwdriver bit while you turn the chuck to loosen the screw.
That keeps the screwdriver bit from slipping out of the slot and ruining it.
If that still doesn't work, somebody glued the screw in with Loc-Tite.
You will have to heat the screw with a small torch enough to "smoke" the Loc-Tite so you can get them out.
rc
Then place the bit in the screw and whack it several times with a small hammer.
That will usually jar even the tightest screw loose.
If that doesn't work, and you can get access to a drill press?
Chuck the hex-screwdriver bit in the drill and use it to apply downward pressure on the screwdriver bit while you turn the chuck to loosen the screw.
That keeps the screwdriver bit from slipping out of the slot and ruining it.
If that still doesn't work, somebody glued the screw in with Loc-Tite.
You will have to heat the screw with a small torch enough to "smoke" the Loc-Tite so you can get them out.
rc
atblis
Member
Can also use a soldering iron/gun to put a little heat on the screw. A few heat cycle might also help even if it's just rusty.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Drilling it out is a last resort.
Get a small sharp center-punch or scribe and a small hammer.
Try to get the punch to bite enough in the damaged screw to tappy-tap it enough to move one way or another.
Once it moves a little, in or out, the penetrating oil can get down inside and you should be able to tappy-tap it out far enough to get hold of it.
rc
Get a small sharp center-punch or scribe and a small hammer.
Try to get the punch to bite enough in the damaged screw to tappy-tap it enough to move one way or another.
Once it moves a little, in or out, the penetrating oil can get down inside and you should be able to tappy-tap it out far enough to get hold of it.
rc
alsaqr
Member
Find a machine shop or a machine shop supply business. Get a reverse (left hand) twist drill bit a little smaller than the screw. Put your cordless screwdriver in reverse and start drilling. The screw will come out.
RugerMcMarlin
Member
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- Apr 19, 2011
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Go slow, use a bit smaller dia. than the blind screw. Do you have a prick punch that you can use to make a pilot on the screw top? Iv'e seen that before on just the front screws, if the holes go clear thru I think they get corosion from powder gases.
Okay, I got one of them out and the other one got completely stripped. So I went to Sears and got a micro extractor set. I drilled through the center of the screw but the extractor just screwed into it and didn't pull the stuck screw out. Now, it's just the screw stuck in there with a hole in the middle of it. Any idea's?
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Take it to a gunsmith before you completely ruin the receiver??
rc
rc
Thinking seriously about it. My biggest problem with that is every gunsmith I've dealt with in this area in the past has been worse at doing stuff than I am. That worries me and is why I tried to do it myself. Seems no one in this area that is a "gunsmith" is even decent enough to drill sling stud holes straight.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Usually, you can drill the screw out to just almost touch the threads in the hole.
Then use a sharp scribe and pick out the remaining screw threads out of the hole threads.
The hole you drilled in the screw has to be pretty well centered for that to work though.
rc
Then use a sharp scribe and pick out the remaining screw threads out of the hole threads.
The hole you drilled in the screw has to be pretty well centered for that to work though.
rc
mwsenoj
Member
Kroil? Supposed to penetrate areas down to 1/1,000,000 of an inch.
rcmodel
Member in memoriam
Thats one reason I much prefer to drill the screw out to the threads, then pick the remaining threads out of the good hole threads.
To start an Ez-Out so it won't slip the hole out bigger, you need to tap it into the hole with a small hammer so it gets a good bite on the hole.
Then, very carefully try it.
If the screw doesn't budge, STOP!, and put it back in the package
The problem with very small Ez-Outs is, they are tempered harder then woodpecker lips.
And they will break like glass if you put the slightest side load on them.
If you break one off in a hole, you are Screwed, so to speak!
They are too hard for any drill to cut, and there is usually no way to get the broking piece out of the hole, short of crunching them up smaller with a center punch & hammer!
And by the time you get that done, the threaded hole is toast.
rc
DoubleTapDrew
Member
Do the screws still have heads on them and do you have a dremel? A couple times on stripped phillips head screws I have used the thin cutting wheel on a dremel (hacksaw blade would probably do the same thing) to cut a slot across the head and turn it into a common tip and use a screwdriver on it.
earlthegoat2
Member
Soak it in Kroil. 24 hrs
Get a PROPER screwdriver (hollow ground gunsmith) and put it in the slot and hit it with a hammer.
Soak in Kroil again. 24 hrs
Drill press as was mentioned above.
Get a PROPER screwdriver (hollow ground gunsmith) and put it in the slot and hit it with a hammer.
Soak in Kroil again. 24 hrs
Drill press as was mentioned above.
Ramone
Member
this thread is making me cry.
Thanks for all of the help guys. I got this out. I took it to a guy about an hour away and he put used his drill press and apparently, running a slightly smaller bit through it pushed the piece left in there right out. He hit it with the tap just to clean up the threads as it had some rust left in there, but it didn't mess them up. So I turned out pretty lucky on this one.
On a side note I took it to the local gunshop first, which I can't stand by the way, but thought if they could get it out quickly it might be worth it. He inspected it and told me the threads were already ruined and that it was going to be at least a week and a half before he got to fixing it as it wasn't going to be an easy fix. He was going to drill a bigger hole and re tap it. Luckily I didn't listen to him and took it to the other guy to get him to remove it.
On a side note I took it to the local gunshop first, which I can't stand by the way, but thought if they could get it out quickly it might be worth it. He inspected it and told me the threads were already ruined and that it was going to be at least a week and a half before he got to fixing it as it wasn't going to be an easy fix. He was going to drill a bigger hole and re tap it. Luckily I didn't listen to him and took it to the other guy to get him to remove it.
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