How to pick a powder ??

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HOOSIER70

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Sounds simple right ? Wrong in my Speer manual ( #14 ) there are four different IMR powders just for the .223 & I'm not even counting all of the other powder manufactures. So without buying 30 or so different powders what process works best for you and why ? Thanks
 
I look at other rounds i load for and see if there are compatable powders, next i look at the recommendations in the reloaders manual. I use a sierra and a lymans manual and they both give best accuracy loads. I also ask or search web sites to see what recommendations I can get. For 223 get Varget. No need to reinvent the wheel.
 
The reason why there are so many powders listed for each caliber is there are many reloaders who want to use only 1 powder for many jobs. The company has to supply the information.

When I choose a powder for a caliber I like to choose one that will fill most of the case when loaded to the recommended Max charge for that powder. I find I get better accuracy when the case is close to being filled but that's just my opinion and I have no proof it's true. I also depend upon other reloaders telling me what powders are most accurate in that caliber for them. That's usually a good place to start too... Like said above, reloading manual recommendations are also good places to start.

I guess there's really no one good way to choose a powder other than experience.
 
You want to look at the reloading data for pressure and choose a propellant that is in the middle of what is available for your choice of bullet weight/caliber. I also personally try to find a loading that fills the brass as completely as possible without compressing the load. That way You will catch a double/triple charge with ease. Precisely why I do not use a small amount of fast burning propellant that will barely start to fill the casing and be position sensitive as well. Also a load that a lot of people find accurate in their particular firearm might also be good in yours if it falls in a safe published range. Don't forget to start at the starting load and work your way up to the selected load.
 
I pick a bullet that I want to do the job I have for it based on speed for twist & jacket performance. Then pick a powder that should push it at that speed. Then start testing it to see if my guesses were close. If it is a flop then go with a faster or slower powder but try to keep it at the same velocity. That is how I pick a powder for a cartridge. I decide which one to buy based on how cheap it is.
 
I do like others here and try to go with a powder that fills the case as much as possible. The less air space inside the better off you are. Also try to pick a powder that provides the highest velocity for that cartridge.

This is how I pick rifle powders.

For instance, you want .223. I look in my reloading book which shows me Benchmark gives the highest velocity with a 50 gr bullet that I want to shoot and the max load fills the case to 98%. In this case Benchmark is the winner.

Many manuals tell which powders were the most accurate and at what charge they were accurate. One thing I stay away from is a powder that gave its best accuracy at the starting charge.

For most cartridges I've found that the best accuracy seems to come at or very near the max charge.

Now you know how I've picked powder for 34 years.
 
For instance, you want .223. I look in my reloading book which shows me Benchmark gives the highest velocity with a 50 gr bullet that I want to shoot and the max load fills the case to 98%. In this case Benchmark is the winner.
how do you know what case fill capacity is???????

Many manuals tell which powders were the most accurate and at what charge they were accurate
what manuals are you refering to???????
 
Most any decent manual will comment on which powder and bullet combination performed the best in their testing.

Lee is one that does not, but it does list case capacity.


Most popular cartridges have "old standby" powders that have worked well and proven themselves over the decades. But, if you don't use that "old standby" for anything, yet you have different powder on hand for a similar cartridge that will perform in this one, you can use it because they provide the data.

IMR 4198 is quite popular in .223. So is Varget.


Once you get into the hobby and have a few years under your belt you'll figure it out. Go by what the manual suggests works well, and those "old standbys".

For the "lessor known" cartridges, I usually look at the relative burn rates and the velocities they produce and can usually settle on one or two choices from there.
 
In my experience the most accuracy comes from mid loads or just over min(book data) & as far as filling the case Varget does that & works in almost everything but isn't great in anything I own.
 
As a highpower shooter I just ask people what they are using.

Powder preferences are like fashion trends. A couple of powders are preferred for a couple of years and then the lunatic crowd runs laughing and giggling to the latest powder du jour.

All the perfect scores and X rings earned with the unfashionable powder are forgotten. :scrutiny:

Trends I have lived through were N135, AA2520 (a ball powder), Varget, and I think RL15. These powders were all popular for a time, though AA2520 is very dirty in a AR15. Varget is an excellent choice, saw many outstanding groups shot with it.

I prefer stick powders. I don't like long stick powders, like IMR 4064, as they don't throw well and are likely to clog up a .223 powder funnel. I have used AA4064 (short grained 4064) in a Krieger barrel and won many medals at Camp Perry with the stuff.

I used N140 with the heavy bullets, such as 75's and 80's. Shot HM scores at long range with the stuff. I had buds who loved N540.

The .223 cartridge will shoot outstandingly small groups with powders in the IMR 4895 burn rate. Even though IMR 4895 seems to be "old fashioned", it shoots fantastically well in the .223.
 
I'm currently in the market for a powder for a 204 ruger. I've got plenty of powder to do some initial testing but nothing that really fits that niche. I did a little reading, some asking around and bought a few new manuals. I weighed all those factors and made an informed decision based on my homework. That's how I've done it for years. Once you get the whole process figured out it really doesn't take much playing around to nail down a good load.
 
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