How to prep my Remington SPS stock for paint?

[NYH1]

I bought a few digital stencil kits from Bulldog Arms. I painted my Remington 700 SPS Varmint 308 USMC type digital woodland camo. The paint I used was Tractor Supply's camouflage oil based paint. The stencils worked great, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND THEM. The paint on all the metal parts of my rifle and scope came out really nice. However, when I removed the stencils and tape from my plastic stock and the plastic flip up scope covers, in a lot of places the paint came off with it.

What is the best way to prep my plastic SPS stock? Is using oil base paint ok or should I use a different type? I let the first color completely dry before putting stencils, tape or painting the next color. So I know I didn't put the stencils, tape and paint on and then remove them to soon. I want to get this process figured out so I can paint a few guns and know they're going to turn out good.

Thanks, NYH1.

 

[JeeperCreeper]

It could be alot of things, and I hope others hop in here to correct me if I am wrong. I am no chemist (yep, dropped out of organic chem...) but I am an avid hobby "painter" of old guns and cheap car parts.

The oil based paint should be fine. In my experience, oil based enamel is one of the tougher "regular" paints (excluding bake on epoxy, etc etc). For tape, I would recommend Frog Tape. It is lime green and a little pricer than Scotch blue painters tape, but it will not over-stick and has something like a 28 day guarantee not to peel paint (if a guarantee means anything).

When it comes to the handiwork, I would make sure you put the tape and stencils down, then remove almost immediately after laying your paint so the tape is only "curing" to the fresh paint below for a matter of minutes. I would also sand down and scuff the plastic heavily. For plastics, I use medium course sand papers (can't remember what grit) and the dark gray sotch-brite pads (again, can't remember what courseness number but it is the same people use to prep vehicle bumpers if that helps). Paint is notorious for not sticking well to plastic compared to metal, hence why you see so many "for plastic" spray paints. I would not worry about "over scuffing" pastic as the more areas for paint to grab, the better. You would be surprised how a very rough surface can still be painted to a smooth finish.

Another problem with plastics are that they can be flexible. Even a small, unnoticeable amount of bend in a surface will ruin the bond between the paint and the surface.

I hope this rant helps a small bit, I would check out Youtube as there are some really good tutors out there doing step by step processes in more detail than this.

 

[Z-Michigan]

I have painted a bunch of plastic, including a factory Ruger stock that appears to be the same basic nylon-6 material as Remington uses, and have had excellent results. There are two things I would focus on:

1) The stock must be absolutely clean and degreased. While some people recommend brake cleaner for this, I have found that Lysol (or generic) spray cleaner/disinfectant, like most people use for cleaning their bathrooms and kitchen counters, works great. I rinse off the stock, spray it down heavily with Lysol (etc.), rub it around with my hands like I'm washing it, rinse it off thoroughly with hot tap water, and repeat once or twice. Then I dry it carefully with a clean towel (NO fabric softener!) and let it air dry. Then avoid touching with your hands the areas to be painted. It's easier than it sounds typed out here.

2) Not all paints are compatible with plastic. Krylon and Rustoleum have both introduced paint lines, now including the camo paints from each, which state they bond to plastic. I've used both, and both work fine, although I think Rustoleum is a little more durable and easier to work with. I can recommend those. If not using one of those, I would go for Aervoe if you can find it, or, if you're made of money, Duracoat. Read the instructions on the can and follow them carefully, there are specific dry and recoat times to follow, and ignoring them can cause your paint job to blister or come off.