How to properly clean after using corrosive ammo

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Terc

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I'm new to collecting and shooting military surplus rifles and corrosive ammo and was looking for advice on proper cleaning and ran into this advice over at Empire Arms website. Does this sound like good advice or good technique? Any criticisms? Thanks.

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This is how I do it... it's easy, it's fast, and it's effective. Best of all you can do it while still on the firing-line and thus not offend your significant other with the usually pungent stench of commercial cleaners in your home.

Dilute regular household ammonia (sudsy is best but regular is OK too) to 2/1 or 3/1 with water (it can be as much as 10/1 if the smell really gets to you). Keep in a small bottle to take with you to the range but label it well so you don't mistake it for contact-lens solution or something (yeeeowww!)

After you are done firing and while still at the range moisten (not dripping-wet, but sorta-soaked) a patch and run it down the bore and back once. This instantly will neutralize and dissolve the corrosive salt-compounds from the primers and start in on the copper and powder fouling with a vengeance.

Let stand for thirty seconds or so (just enough time to take off and throw away the ammonia-patch you just used and put a new, dry patch on your rod). Run the dry patch (or several) down the bore and you are most literally done.

DON'T OVERDO IT! More ISN'T better in this case...

You really don't want to slop ammonia (especially if heavily concentrated) all over the blued parts of the gun (as it will likely start to remove bluing after 30 minutes or so) and you also shouldn't leave the ammonia in the bore for an extended period of time (like hours, although I do know folks who do that anyway) as that may (not WILL, but MAY) cause "crazing" (microscopic pitting) of the metal. I also have to caution against slopping ammonia on the wooden parts of your rifle, as it will usually strip the finish down to bare-wood, BUT if you follow my advise on HOW MUCH ammonia to use (only enough to dampen, but not soak, a single patch per gun) you will not EVER experience ANY problems at all...

If you are worried about primer residue getting on the bolt-face you may want to quickly wipe it with the wet patch before throwing the thing away and quickly dry it. Same thing with the gas-tube in a semi-automatic rifle... don't go overboard, just wet it and dry it and get done with it.

As a final precaution (since the ammonia will also kill all lubricants and leave the metal very dry) you can run a patch of gun-oil down the bore and leave it like that for protection from the elements (just be sure to run a dry patch down the bore before shooting it again).

I've been cleaning guns this way (including *every* gun we sell) for nearly thirty years, and have never had rust form in any bore (even here in humid Florida).

However, if you are (like some folks I have met) completely obsessed about leaving traces of ANY powder or copper residue in the bore of your weapon, you can certainly follow up your "field-cleaning" with a detailed, strenuous, traditional cleaning once you are home (or in a week or month from then). But I warn you... your bore is much more be likely to be damaged from your over-enthusiastic scrubbing to get out that "last speck of copper" (which has no affect on the actual accuracy of your firearm) than it will with all the rounds you could possibly send down it during your lifetime.


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Boiling water down the bore and clean as usual. You can add soap.

Ammonia can work, windex can work, but hot water is the big thing. You're removing water-soluble salts through flushing. Hot water puts the salts into solution and carries them away best. It's also nontoxic, doesn't smell, and is cheap.
 
The primer compound in "corrosive" ammo includes potassium chlorate as an oxidizer. When the primer goes BANG what remains of the potassium chlorate is potassium chloride, a very hygroscopic salt. Trace amounts of this are carried with the propellant gases and deposited on anything that they touch.

Potassium chloride, by itself, is harmless to steel, but it will attract water vapor from the atmosphere and create rust.

Since it is so very hygroscopic, the best way to (pre)clean for it is with water or something water-based. That is why the windex approach used by so many works well as a pre-cleaning step ... many folks think that the ammonia is the key, but it is the water.

The salt is drawn into solution by the water and removed with same when you dry the bore.

US military ammo (with the exception of carbine ammo) started being converted in the early '50s. Almost all ComBloc ammo sports chlorate primers.

The safest approach is to treat ALL unknown milsurp ammo as "corrosive".

After pre-cleaning for the potassium chloride, perform your standard "non-corrosive" cleaning regimen, unless the solvent(s) that you normally use are water-based in which case you are removing the salt while cleaning the firearm.
 
Hot soapy water,then dry. Then clean and oil as normal. simple.

Also US military bore cleaner works.
 
It's a type of salt that causes all the problems. You need to dissolve the salt and flush it out of the barrel. They have been using boiling hot water since guns were invented with good results.
 
That's what I've always heard when using 8mm milsurp stuff and that's the method I've always used. However, the one wet patch and one dry patch that your quote called for is a little unrealistic...unless you've only shot 5 rounds. If you have any experience with milsurp ammo at all, you'll know it's very dirty ammo. I usually like to use 10 to 15 patches soaked with the half and half mix. I like to see the patch come out of the end and be as totally clean as possible. Go shot 50 or 100 rounds and milsurp and see how clean your barrel gets after just one wet and one dry patch. Also if you're shooting a bolt, like my Mausers, I usually like to take the bolt completely out and put it in a bowl of 3 to 1 ammonia mix while I clean the rest of the rifle. That gets all of the insides of the bolt neutralized as well.
 
Hot water and Simple Green...then your favorite protectant. I use CorrosionX!

CRITGIT
 
Hot water will remove the corrosive salts left behind by primers. I like Ballistol for this type of cleaning (mil-surp ammo). Mix one part Ballistol with nine parts water and spray down the barrel while still warm. Patch dry and then use Ballistol full strength. I like to clean for at least two days after shooting to make sure I get everything out.
 
I clean right after I get home from the range. I usually run 3-5 patches soaked in Windex, dry, then continue as normal with Hoppes. Works for me.

Another method to use, if you can't get home right away, similar to the advice in the OP (credit to Franco): soak some patches in Windex and then stick them in a plastic baggie and throw it in them in your range box. Run 'em down the bore with the gun's cleaning rod before you leave.
 
Also if you're shooting a bolt, like my Mausers, I usually like to take the bolt completely out and put it in a bowl of 3 to 1 ammonia mix while I clean the rest of the rifle. That gets all of the insides of the bolt neutralized as well.

Do you completely disassemble the bolt or is it sufficient to soak it and wipe it dry?
 
Another method to use, if you can't get home right away, similar to the advice in the OP (credit to Franco): soak some patches in Windex and then stick them in a plastic baggie and throw it in them in your range box. Run 'em down the bore with the gun's cleaning rod before you leave.

Would you recommend this even if you're aren't using corrosive ammo? Or is match ammo a whole other can of worms?

Sorry if I seem ignorant, but I'm a newbie.
 
I have a hose that I screw onto the faucet and put the hose into the gun. Turn on the water, and the sink is right next to the hot water heater so it is very hot. Let it run for a minute and take it out. Dry it off and clean like I do other guns. I usually take the bolt apart and soak it in water, rinse it off and then dry and oil it.
 
The ammonia/Windex treatment only applies to corrosive surplus ammo.

Modern ammo just gets a cleaning with the solvent of your choice, whenever you want.
 
I have a hose that I screw onto the faucet and put the hose into the gun. Turn on the water, and the sink is right next to the hot water heater so it is very hot. Let it run for a minute and take it out. Dry it off and clean like I do other guns. I usually take the bolt apart and soak it in water, rinse it off and then dry and oil it.

Best method out there. Swear to god, you do nothing.
 
Would you recommend this even if you're aren't using corrosive ammo? Or is match ammo a whole other can of worms?

Sorry if I seem ignorant, but I'm a newbie.

No this would be way overkill for modern ammo. If you are using anything made in the U.S. in the past 30 years you are fine. In fact most (none?) of the NEW russian/wolf is even corrosive.

Modern ammo, wipe clean, run patches, oil.. that is all.
 
ballistol and water is what I use.

+1 Ballistol is good stuff. Smells like a dirty diaper with a hint of licorice, but it works really well.

Another method that works actually quite well, at least based on the tests I've seen at "theakforumdotcom" is to fire about five non corrosively primed cartridges after finishing up your corrosive shooting. If I remember the tests correctly, guy shot an AK or the like, with all that powder smuts in the gas tube and on the trunnion/bullet guide. The five non corrosive rounds kept his rifle from rusting. The contributors over there suggested that the hot, non corrosive, gases from the last five cartridges blew out the salts.

Anyway, the guy who conducted the tests had his rifle propped up outside in a moist climate, and photographed it over a few days or maybe a couple of weeks, and it didn't show rust on it. IIRC, he also tried the test with simply corrosive ammo, and got fuzzy orange rust in a day or two.
 
In fact, the new wolf ammo is not corrosive. Neither is Barnual ammo, prvi, igman, and other russian/eastern european manufactures.
 
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