How to restore a knife?

[Spec ops Grunt]

I've seen some posts with vintage knives that have been restored, I'm just wondering how people do it.

I've got an old slipjoint knife where the blades are stainless and there is no corrosion on them, but opening it feels gritty. I put some ballistol on it, and after letting it set, brown gunk came out from the spring area/hinge that the blade pivots on.

Do I just keep doing this, or should I be using a different product to remove the rust?

 

[Piraticalbob]

Muskrat Man does good restoration work, judging by the photos.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

It's not bad enough that I would send it to someone else, I'm just trying to get it to open smoother.



Plus I like messing with mechanical things.

 

[rcmodel]

Hose it out good with WD-40, and then blow it out with a 100 PSI air compresser.

Then oil it good, and open and close it about a gazillion times.

Then hose it out and blow it out again.
And maybe again a couple more times.

Eventually it will get more smoother with enough hosings and blow jobs!

rc

 

[hso]

Be careful using any solvent since some of the old handle materials may not tolerate it.

High purity mineral oil like Ballistol is not going to cause a problem.

Keep the air pressure used to blow out the gunk down to 40psi. 100psi is dangerous.

 

[Deltaboy1984]

I agree we use 100 + psi in Construction work. At that psi you can force some materials into you skin or eye. A major PAIN!

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

All right, I'll do that.

I've been letting it sit there and lift the gunk out, but that's been slow going. My dad has a cabinet shop, so I'll use his air compressor tomorrow.



The handle is wood, so I've been sticking to something I know won't mess up wood.


It's says Frost Cutlery on the tang with a picture of an eagle, anyone know anything about it? It's a pretty good knife.

 

[hso]

I'll use his air compressor tomorrow

Only dialed down below 40 psi. Make sure of that. Also, wear safety goggles when you do.

 

[rcmodel]

100psi is dangerous.

I meant to use it to blow out the joints in the knife blades.
Not the joints in your fingers!

I use 100 PSI air in gun repair & cleaning all the time.
Like any other power tool, you should wear safety glasses and keep your skin out of the way.

Over the years, have been hurt a lot worse more times by the hose wand at the car wash then by a 100 PSI air compressor blow nozzle!

rc

 

[hso]

I meant to use it to blow out the joints in the knife blades.
Not the joints in your fingers!

But people hold the things in their bare hands and if they don't know to keep the air directed away from themselves they might actually end up with an accidental injection.

It is important to explain to people how to do things safely instead of assuming that they automatically know.

 

[rcmodel]

Point taken.

However, my personal view is, if they can't safely use an air compressor?
They probably shouldn't be messing with sharp pointy things like knives either!!

rc

 

[hso]

Let's at least tell them the things we know they should avoid doing since compressors (and dremels and grinders/buffer wheels) are so common in so many homes.

Anything you hold in your hand should only have 40psi air used on it. If you can't dial down to 40 psi, use a tool to hold it. Wear safety glasses whenever using pressurized air. Don't direct the air at yourself unless below 40 psi. Never direct it towards your face.

 

[Ron James]

Hello Grunt, if your knife is a Frost knife then there's a good chance that it's not grit that's causing the knife to be rough " walking and talking " but that the bearing surfaces are not smooth. These are very inexpensive knifes that are made in India and Pakistan where the wages are a dollar a day for 10 hours of labor. I've heard that some of their knifes are made in Taiwan but I've yet to see one. Now I know there are forum members that have Frost knifes that they've used to skin Elephants and Rhino with and they never need sharpening ( so they say ). All I can reply is , keep those knives and treasure them , because they are unique

 

[hso]

It's says Frost Cutlery on the tang with a picture of an eagle, anyone know anything about it? It's a pretty good knife.

Depends upon when it was made. During the period just after Parker/Frost parted you could still find good quality Japanese made Frost knives. Not so much later on.

 

[ArfinGreebly]

Japan?

Check the other side.

Does it say "Japan" on the tang?

I have an older, smaller (almost miniature, "bird & trout" sized) fixed blade Frost Cutlery knife (no sheath, I keep a cork on the point). Bone handle with ducks-in-flight etching, good fit & finish, and made in Japan. Quality is quite good. (I should get a sheath made for it so it can joint the EDC rotation.)

If yours says "Japan" I'd say you have a keeper.

 

[hso]

I agree with AG, the Japanese made Frosts were pretty nice knives. Current production appears to be from China, but a few models are made in Pakistan. I'd approach anything made after 1980 with caution.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

I've got two Frost knives actually, the one I'm trying to smooth the action on (It's getting better.) has no indications of where its made, just says Frost Cutlery on one blade and surgical steel on the other. On the main blade it says Scorpion, with the image of one etched onto the blade.

The other is a Tiny Toothpick I picked up in Branson about anywhere from 6-10 years ago, it has Japan marked on it, and is one of my favorite knives.

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Air compressor really helped, It's really smoothed out!

 

[Spec ops Grunt]

Bought a cheap Buck knife to practice sharpening. IT is a difficult process.