How to save $75 on Shipping Your "Revolver."

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I just sent a 1972 Ruger Security Six back to the factory for repair. It cost about $80 to send it FedEx overnight. If the good folks at Ruger get the gun cooking again, I want to have an over sized trigger stop installed on the back of the trigger to render the gun double action only. I want to KEEP the hammer spur for doing rotation checks, hooking my thumb during reloads and such.

So, I'm going to look for a gunsmith who can install the stop ON THE TRIGGER without me sending the entire pistol. I plan to disassemble the gun and send in JUST the trigger using a standard USPS box--cost $5.00. When the trigger comes back, I'll file the trigger stop down to the proper size so the revolver fires double action, but won't pull all the way back for single action. You could do the same thing by sending just the hammer and having the single action sear ground off.

Other custom work that can be done without sending THE GUN:

  • Sights installed by sending just the slide.
  • Throat and polish just the barrel.
  • Adding coatings to a pistol frame where the "gun" is removable (Sig P250).
  • Buying and installing drop in trigger job parts.
  • Buying grip tape instead of shipping the frame for checkering.

I'm sure others have done the same thing, but I haven't seen it discussed here. So, for what it's worth--maybe $75--that's my suggestion.
 
The problem will be "Adding coatings to the frame".

The serial numbered frame IS the gun. Even if you remove all parts but just the raw frame it's still THE gun, and requires shipping as a firearm.

Everything else is just parts. If it has the serial number on the part, it's a gun.
 
CC is talking about some of the pistols which have a dismountable mechanism that BATFE has ruled is the gun, so the hollow shell it fits into could be shipped legally if the block containing the mechanism is removed.

One fairly common complaint is that the factory won't just ship a revolver cylinder for the customer to install at home. I know what Dfariswheel thinks of that idea.

But most gunsmiths, no matter how they get the parts, will not do trigger work and many other jobs without having the whole gun, and neither will the factories. If the gunsmith does work on the trigger as you want, and then you file on it, and it doesn't work or proves to be dangerous, odds are that you'll blame the gunsmith, not yourself.

Jim
 
Good luck finding a gunsmith who will do work on your trigger and then return it to you, so you can complete the work while the gunsmith still owns liability for your work.

I agree that sending just the slide in for sights makes sense. Most places that install sights tell you this on their website.

Anything related to safe operation goes into another category. I bet most gunsmiths will want everything if they are going to touch a trigger, sear, safety, etc.
 
Unless you're shipping FFL to FFL, you only have two choices: FedEx or UPS. Per those shippers: A handgun must be shipped via Priority Overnite. FedEx has "always" had this rule but UPS didn't start it until about 2004. (?) Of course, this affected a lot of gunsmiths who do a lot of shipping/receiving of handguns.
Yes, ATF considers the part with the serial number, the "Controlled Item". No, any part with a serial number on it is not controlled. A lot of older and/or very expensive firearms had serial numbers on every single machined part. (Hence the phrase: Matching or non-matching numbers)
As a non-FFL holder, a person can mail order every single part of a firearm, except for the "Controlled Item". That requires a transfer thru an FFL holder.
Now, back when UPS changed their rules, I..like many other 'smiths, was affected. Understandable when the cost of round trip shipping exceeds the cost of the job! I went to UPS and happened to be able to speak to the District Rep, who was in that day. First, I asked him why they changed the rules. Per him, it was because they were "loosing" to many handguns during shipping. (To many crooks working in the wharehouses!) So they make YOU pay for Priority Overnite to reduce the time that it's in their custody to reduce their liabilty.
This guy was a shooter himself and he was easy to talk to about that subject. He made several things clear, all of which have been backed up by research since then.
1...UPS and FedEx have rules. They're not laws! If you ship a handgun via Ground and it gets lost, you didn't break the law by shipping it that way but: You can be taken to civil court by the shipper and you will most certainly NOT collect on the insurance. If it turns up at a crime scene, you could face liabilty there. It ain't worth it!
2...UPS and FedEx don't care about serial numbers, controlled items, etc. Most of their clerks are barely able to recognize a firearm as such. They don't check the numbers or the parts. You're not required to list the serial number any place on the shipping forms. Their concern is their own liabilty.
3...Per ATF: A 1911 frame (for example) is the gun and will always be the gun, no matter if it's assembled with all of the other parts or not. It's the "Controlled Item".
4...Per UPS and FedEx: A 1911 frame is a machined part! (See # 2)
5...Per UPS and FedEx: A fully disassembled 1911 handgun with each individual part bagged in seperate little baggies and taped all up, sealed in a box, is STILL a handgun and must be shipped via Priority Overnite.
6...Per UPS and FedEx: A field stripped 1911 missing the grip panels, barrel and recoil spring, is a box of machined parts and can be shipped via 2 or 3 day or even Ground.

We regularly ship and receive boxes of handgun PARTS including frames via FedEx 2 or 3 day or Ground. Yes, we've had a few get lost or damaged over the years. Yes, FedEx paid off on the insurance with no issues. (We prefer FedEx)

Now, having said all of that, I have to add a few notes. First, no matter what you're shipping to whom, you need to comply with all laws. Cheating and calling seven complete 1911's with mags a "box of parts" to save on shipping costs is a gamble. Probably will be ok but maybe not. Insurance is cheap so buy plenty. Long guns can be shipped via Ground FedEx or UPS or even the Post Office. Most but not all shipping clerks, regardless of whether it's FedEx, UPS or the Post Office are idiots. They don't know their own rules/regs. Take a copy of their rules with you when shipping. I also suggest taking along a copy of the FFL, either yours or the recipient. Do not go thru shipping stores! They're franchises and are not official, only affiliated. Hope this helps. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
 
Darnit Mac, I had a Mak for you to do, but shipping was too expensive for me to do it.

NOW you tell me how to ship it!? After I sold it!? I may have something for you in the future though. All of your pictures just look so pretty... I want one.
 
Sorry Tyeo098! I have a pretty good explanation of the same thing on our web site Shipping page. Thanks for the good words on our past work photo's. I have a bunch of new ones that I just have to find time to upload. To bad you sold your Mak. We like Mak's and always set up a good deal on them! heh heh. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
 
sav on shipping from ga.

hi there dont know if this helps, but a couple of months ago i traded pistols with a dealer in fla. from here in ga. i personally took it to ups. their manager told me to take it home, pack it, and print the shipping label myself from their website. then bring it back to them or arrange the pick up online. i took it to them, cost me like seventeen bucks to ship it, insured, with their blessing. no preoblems, took app. 36 hrs, and actually made it there. this was a full sized 1911, xtra mags, and box. martin
 
For an occasional shipment of a handgun to an FFL holder (including an 03 C&R), one way is to be on good terms with your local dealer. If the dealer knows you, and if you pack it up and provide a copy of the recipient's FFL, he will mail it along with his stuff. He might charge a fee, but with the much lower USPS cost, you can still save money.

(Of course, being on good terms with your local dealer means buying stuff from him and not bragging about how much money you save by buying stuff "on the web").

Jim
 
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