How to stop Blackhawk loading gate flying open with heavy loads

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It's an easy fix. But go over here to the gunsmithing section of this forum. You may want to be more specific as to the gun and the caliber though. In some cases you can ship it back to Ruger and they will repair it.

tipoc

www.rugerforum.com
 
Huh? First I've heard of it happening.

Lesse...there's an oddball flatspring down in the innards that makes a final upturn and hits the bottom of the loading gate. Opening the gate forces down on that spring. It sounds to me like the spring is worn out...my first thought would be to replace it.

I assume this is a "New Model" Blackhawk? A post-1973 "two screw"?

If so...

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/sc...mid=723&m=13&mn=Ruger®&model=Super+Blackhawk+

Item 17. You can order right there. Understand, it's THICK metal, hard to understand how it's failed. Might have a bit of crud...worth taking it apart.
 
Sounds like you have a bad spring...definitely not a common Blackhawk problem..............now if you only asked about cylinder pins undoing themselves;)
 
When I was swapping to the SBH hammer on my New Vaquero, I managed to get the "pointy bit" on that spring alongside the loading gate pivot point instead of jammed up underneath it like it's supposed to be. That compromized the loading gate "stiffness" something awful. Took me a sec to realize what had happened and re-seat the end of the spring and then all was OK.

I'm thinking either there's crud in there, or the end of the spring is bent funny and isn't hitting the gate where it should, or the spring is worn out. In two out of three of those situations having another spring in hand would be worthwhile and since they're under $6 a piece, worth scoring another just in case.

Even if you also bought a Brownell's Ruger-specific screwdriver kit for less than $20 at the same time, it will be easier, cheaper and faster to do this fix yourself versus sending it in to Ruger. The spring and screwdriver kit together will cost less than one-way shipping on the whole gun.

Rugers respond very well to "kitchen table gunsmithing", it's a testament to the sanity of the basic design.
 
Thanks for the input! I also posted in the smithing section, but got nothing.

It's an old model .357 so I think it may be gunked up in there. Doesn't look as if it's been messed with unless they knew what they were doing when they took it apart.

The other times I've had a NM ruger apart it was a NIGHTMARE for me. If I tear this down is it going to be a bear or tolerable? I got beat bad by springs last time on the NM.
 
RE: Old Model (3 screw) Ruger Single Actions.

The gate is operated the same as the Colt it copied. In can be opened and closed regardless of the hammer's position. It is tensioned by a plunger and spring and retained by a plug screw.

Remove the grip frame and its associated parts, and look at the bottom of the frame to see the plug screw under the gate. Remove the screw, and then the spring and plunger. Push the gate forward and then off.

Clean the gate's shaft hole, and the hole for the spring and plunger with a Q-tip swab or pipe cleaner soaked in powder solvent. Then use solvent on a patch to clean the spring and plunger. If the spring is bent or damaged replace it. Then lightly oil the spring and plunger and the gate's shaft. Reassemble the parts in reverse order, and screw the plunger screw in far enough to get the required tension against the gate's shaft. Generally this is when the screw is just below flush with the frame.

I suspect that in this case the gate is flopping open because for some reason the spring and plunger are not pushing against it. Clean the holes and replace any defective or missing parts (the plunger, spring and screw) and things should be alright again. :)
 
Old Fluff,
Thanks! That sounds doable for me. Hopefully, I'll get time this weekend to give it a shot. Not sure when I'll be able to test fire it, but I'll report back when I get that done.
 
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