How to use 1911 frame rail swaging punches?

[Harvey]

OK, a may be just a bit dense, but I've searched and searched the site for info on using swaging punches to peen slide rails necessary to correct side-to-slide play. Reluctantly, I open a new thread seeking your help.

I am attempting to tune up my faithful OM for windage accuracy after thousands and thousands of competition rounds (and wear). I have no desire to squeeze my precious nickel slide, as the two areas of wear (requiring peening) on the frame rails are quite obvious ... so obvious in fact, that even a dope like myself can make the careful corrections IF I knew how to use the single or double swaging punches. Vertical slide play is fine. The frame is made of a lighter-weight powder-coated steel alloy.

OK, fellow old-timers, kindly help me out. Thanks.

 

[olyeller]

thems mostly for vertical play, but it will give you a little more on the sides. Youd need spacer bars to maintain a min gap. And if your frame is a Lighter weight one, Im guessing its not a steel alloy but aluminum. In which case, peening is a no go.
Look into accurails.

 

[rcmodel]

Those peening punches are only used on the frame to adjust vertical play.

The only way to tighten the slide itself is squeesing it, or the Accurails Olyeller mentioned..

rc

 

[Drail]

Your best option is Accurails. I have peened frame rails with only a machinists hammer and while it will tighten the fit it won't last very long on a gun that sees a lot of shooting. (regardless of how it is done, with the punch or just a hammer). I'm not clear on what your frame is made of (lighter weight steel alloy?), if it is lighter weight it is aluminum alloy and you cannot hammer the rails down. They will break. Squeezing the slide will bring the slide rails in but if you go just a little too far you will crack the slide. (don't ask how I know) Accurails or a new frame and slide already fitted or oversize.

 

[BBBBill]

Double check your frame. As noted above, we fear that you might be mistaken about its construction. If aluminum, your best alternative is Accurails, though I would be tempted to use steel inserts similar to the inserts used on match conditioned Beretta 92s/M9s. If it is a steel frame, better to have the frame rails built up by TIG welding, then mill/grind/file to fit your slide. Do stay away from squeezing the slide.
I have the rail swaging punches and have used them many times. Spacer bars limit the downward movement of the rail metal and will "redirect" some of that materal outward, but you will not get as much cold flow outward as you might need to take up the slack. Welding is far better and is my preferred choice now. If you set it up properly and use plenty of heat control paste, you won't even effect the finish on the exposed part of the frame.

 

[Drail]

BBBBill is right.

 

[Harvey]

Thanks for the advice, gents.

First of all, thanks for clearing up my confusion on peening the frame rails to take up horizontal slack. Shows you how badly I need your help. I had thought that peening the frame rail caused it to 'swell' outward at specific points to arrive at the desired objective. That would be nice, as I intend retire the specific pistol and myself from serious shooting, and this slight lateral adjustment to the frame would last as long as need be.

Second, the frame is made of steel, in that it takes on a strong magnet with great force. The pistol is one-of-500 run of the venerable Colt Officer's Ultimate, with an 'enhanced' (as they call it) frame noticeably lighter than standard construction, which leads me to believe that the frame is a steel alloy. In any event, it is steel.

Third, since the OM-length slide is also one-of-500 (a pretty thing, it is) I will not attempt to squeeze it.

So then lastly, I will take BBBBill's advice and have the frame welded and milled at the two specific areas of obvious wear. This work should be no big deal, but I shall relegate the task to a competent smithy.

Whatever the outcome, the pistol is a fine little weapon and it has served me well. Any attempts to bring it back to former glory will be done with understanding and care.

Thanks so much for your help.

 

[rskent]

EGW
They did a great job on a frame repair for me.
I can't think of anyone else I would trust.
Just my two cents
Steve

 

[BBBBill]

EGW is great, but they are pretty much out of gunsmithing now, focusing on manufacturing premium parts. Jim Milks, who was with them for years, is their recommended go to guy. He's probably the guy who did your work at EGW.

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