how to weather proof my cap and ball revolvers from the rain??

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midland man

midland man

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so guys i have two 1851 colt navy's 36 caliber and a carbine rifle 1866 remington revolving carbine in 44 caliber 18in barrel and i might be out in the rain hunting some this fall season so what do you guys do to waterproof your BP guns?? thanks!!
 
Beeswax.

This rants a bit but has some photos unlike most discussions, and has some other useful hints:
https://blackpowderguide.com/how-to-waterproof-a-cap-and-ball-revolver/
I had never heard of better nipples providing better waterproofing, but it's good info.

Note that many candles and other formerly-wax things are not great waxes so old school methods don not always work with modern materials. I also think dripping from a lit candle is sorta asking for it with BP but maybe I am paranoid. Anyway, go out of your way to buy proper beeswax for this purpose alone. I also have some on hand for woodworking etc. I like it.

If you have beeswax lube (tallow and wax) that can work also, but make sure it's stiff enough to stay in place.

Also: this will be more water resistant, and is likely a good idea even in super humid areas. If actually pouring rain, you also want to keep the gun from direct exposure. Keep under a coat, in a flapped holster, etc.

For long arms you can get lock covers (or action covers, etc). These are authentic, period correct things, okay to use even if trying to stay that way. Most are leather, some were (not sure if anyone makes such today) waxed fabric. Make sure it is treated to be weatherproof, dry it properly between uses etc. Also look at how it fits, and make sure you don't carry so that water runs into it. If not trying to be period correct, I bet you can easily sew (or have sewn) the same out of modern fabrics, with modern fasteners to be quicker releasing as well.

I have also seen covers themselves once or twice, waxed onto the action. But that may be a bit much, will leave a rim to be removed later on if you want to keep the gun pretty :)
 
For years I carried an 1860 C&B while muzzleloader hunting as a back-up. I would drip candle wax on the caps/nipples and allow it to encircle the base of the caps. In addition, I loaded the balls with a well lubed (not wet but more waxy) properly fitted felt wad under the ball. Revolver was kept in a very well waxed flap holster.

I never had an issue with non-firing cylinders during wet/rainy/foggy weather. Some folks may have issues with candle dripped wax on the nipples. Listen to your comfort limits.
However, dripped candle wax on my skin lets me know it is there but I do not believe it is of the temperature required to set off BP. Again, I never had an issue but as they say, "Your mileage may vary". I also drip candle wax on my BP percussion rifle nipples for hunting situations.
DISCLAIMER: The Firearms safety rules apply here. Always keep the revolver
pointed n a safe direction while loading and applying dripped candle wax.

I have heard of folks acquiring the 1/8" clear tubing from the hardware store. Cut it into short pieces to stretch fit over the cap and the length of the nipple with just the top of the cap exposed. The hammer should compress the tubing sufficiently to pop the cap on the nipple. Experiment before hunting!

Enjoy the process,
Danaidh
 
Last edited:
I leaned an old pallet against a tree and put my Hawken on it and sprayed it down good with a water hose. I let it sit there for about 15 minutes and fired it to prove to my BIL a sidelock wouldn't misfire in wet weather. I didn't do anything any different than I normally do. I've loaded and fired my 51 navy in a light rain without any cover. Safety anal people probably don't want to know how I did it.:D
 
One of my Cowboy Action Shooting buddies shot a two day tournament match "clean" with 1860 Armys in pouring rain. But he probably only had maybe 15 minutes between loading and shooting. He said he loaded under his hat.

"Clean" is all targets hit in the correct order. The top shooters with cartridge guns do it often. Average shooters every now and then. Many go years without a clean match. Really a feat to accomplish this with black powder cap guns.
 
Wham Bham said:
An old trick we used 35 years ago was to put clear fingernail polish around the edge of the cap where it overlaps the nipple, and grease over the ball.
Did the same with a Flintlock pistol and rifle, around the pan/frizzen joint and between the frizzen and the bbl. Both worked really well in the rain and wet. With the Flinters, if you could get a spark (and they will spark in the rain) it'd go BOOM in the rain.
Click to expand...
thats a cool idea thanks, never thought of that before!
 
Ever hear of a cow's knee? It's a teepee shaped cone of leather you make which fits over frame and maybe down some of the barrel. It will keep everything nice and dry until you are ready to shoot. I added a thong to mine which ties to the trigger guard or lanyard so it will drop off and hang under the gun until needed again.
 
shoobe01 said:
Beeswax.

This rants a bit but has some photos unlike most discussions, and has some other useful hints:
https://blackpowderguide.com/how-to-waterproof-a-cap-and-ball-revolver/
I had never heard of better nipples providing better waterproofing, but it's good info.

Note that many candles and other formerly-wax things are not great waxes so old school methods don not always work with modern materials. I also think dripping from a lit candle is sorta asking for it with BP but maybe I am paranoid. Anyway, go out of your way to buy proper beeswax for this purpose alone. I also have some on hand for woodworking etc. I like it.

If you have beeswax lube (tallow and wax) that can work also, but make sure it's stiff enough to stay in place.

Also: this will be more water resistant, and is likely a good idea even in super humid areas. If actually pouring rain, you also want to keep the gun from direct exposure. Keep under a coat, in a flapped holster, etc.

For long arms you can get lock covers (or action covers, etc). These are authentic, period correct things, okay to use even if trying to stay that way. Most are leather, some were (not sure if anyone makes such today) waxed fabric. Make sure it is treated to be weatherproof, dry it properly between uses etc. Also look at how it fits, and make sure you don't carry so that water runs into it. If not trying to be period correct, I bet you can easily sew (or have sewn) the same out of modern fabrics, with modern fasteners to be quicker releasing as well.

I have also seen covers themselves once or twice, waxed onto the action. But that may be a bit much, will leave a rim to be removed later on if you want to keep the gun pretty :)
Click to expand...

I’ve dripped hot wax directly on a small amount of black powder as well as 777 without ignition. The powder just sticks to the wax. Just keep the heat source for melting far away from your powder.
 
I did not mean to say wax would light the powder at any heat level where it is still wax (too hot and wax vaporizes, or burns), but that you have an open flame, so be sure you know what your fire / powder distance is, at all times, indeed.
 
If the cylinders are properly loaded with a projectile that shaved a ring of lead, gas tight so therefore water tight,IMO, and the cap fits properly, also gas tight, water tightness in a rain is a moot point. JMO. I mention gas tight as both points are a proven method to prevent chain fires. Falling into the creek might be a different ball of wax.
For many years my method of protecting the bore was a penny ballon slid of the muzzle. It expands and breaks when the rifle is fired.
 
hawg said:
I leaned an old pallet against a tree and put my Hawken on it and sprayed it down good with a water hose. I let it sit there for about 15 minutes and fired it to prove to my BIL a sidelock wouldn't misfire in wet weather. I didn't do anything any different than I normally do. I've loaded and fired my 51 navy in a light rain without any cover. Safety anal people probably don't want to know how I did it.:D
Click to expand...
Tucked it up under your shirt?
 
hawg said:
No but I was looking down the muzzle of a loaded gun. Well not really loaded since a C&B revolver isn't loaded until its capped but you know what I mean.
Click to expand...
Well if the caps were not on it then I don't see a thing wrong with it. People get all bent out of shape over nothing. My wife still flips out when I look at a used rifle by checking to see that the breach is clear then looking down the bore from the muzzle end holding a white piece of paper up to the breach
 
Appalachiannative said:
Well if the caps were not on it then I don't see a thing wrong with it. People get all bent out of shape over nothing. My wife still flips out when I look at a used rifle by checking to see that the breach is clear then looking down the bore from the muzzle end holding a white piece of paper up to the breach
Click to expand...

Yeah that's why I said safety anal.
 
No need to over think it. Tight fit of the caps on the nipple, grease over the chamber mouth, and a flap holster will do it. Of course, the carbine is a bit different, but I've found that tight fitting caps are really the key.
 
hawg said:
No but I was looking down the muzzle of a loaded gun. Well not really loaded since a C&B revolver isn't loaded until its capped but you know what I mean.
Click to expand...
That’s what Colonel Cooper called a “half loaded” gun. When he wanted to tweak someone’s nose…
 
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