how would you rate this?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Looks like a slight cylinder ring and - maybe - some very slight pitting on the right side? Could be the photograph. Can't tell about the bore so pretty hard to come up with a rating but if all is as it appears I'd say it's probably 95% + -. But that's only my opinion, and I'm far from an expert. Very nice looking piece.
 
97% would be my guess. but it's tough to tell from pics and rating is also a very subjective thing.
 
19-3Ben could not be more correct when he says that rating is VERY subjective.

The minute scratches can be polished out. If those deeper scratches on the right side cannot I would call it 95-96ish. If they can, or they are lint or something, 97-98.

Nice piece
 
Just plain nasty... yeah... that's the ticket... nasty.

I could be a friend and help you out on this... send it to me and I'll suffer through owning it and you can relax and get a good one. Yeah... a good one.

All kidding aside, that's a holy grail piece and a good example at that. Congratulations.
 
williamthedog

Hard to say without seeing it in person, but I would say somewhere in between the 95 to 98% range.
 
Nice, real nice. Really, really nice, superb.....drool............. :D

Easily 95%, more like 98% the way some folks rate them. Some would say 99.9%, except for..yada, yada. ;)

Very subjective, and at the mercy of the person rating the piece, and their motives as well. :cool:

A mighty fine S&W, no matter how it might be rated.
 
How to sell/describe this gun - my opinion

Using a percentage rating should NOT be subjective. It should refer to the amount of original finish remaining on the gun without damage, discoloration, etc. Think of the gun as a piece of graph paper, then deduct for squares of the graph that are damaged, etc. Jim Supica illustrates this really well in his book. This is an objective exercise, not subjective. The "subjective" thing is if the person describing is too lazy to add a few descriptive lines to help flesh out the overall condition, or just relies on "good," "very good," etc. and nothing else. Numbers aren't subjective.

I don't know if you are just curious about grading it, or whether you are thinking of buying it or selling it. Let's assume you are selling it. If I were writing an ad to sell this gun, I'd describe it like this (I am going to make some assumptions about details you can verify, but you get the idea):

S&W 27-2, 8 3/8" barrel. Lightly used wit nickel finish in 99% condition, thin turn line to cylinder. Excellent bore. Target trigger and hammer with vibrant case coloring, target Goncalo Alves foot-ball relieved stocks showing only minor case rub on one shoulder. Wood oak presentation case with intact liner and tools (rod missing) in excellent condition. Timing appears correct, b/c gap at .005", no detectable endshake (or, .001", etc).
$875.


In this description I've assumed there's nothing I can't see - and anything there is lint, etc., and will polish out/clean up. Before I took photos, I'd:

1) clean it very thoroughly, it's a bit dirty
2) lightly polish the flats to remove the handling handling marks
3) wax the gun (I like Renaissance)
3) Remove the stocks, make sure there's no pitting or anything to the nickel on the grip frame (disclose it if there is, of course).
4) Wash stocks with dishsoap and a toothbrush, dry, then dress with a little lemon oil or similar. When that's dry, then a coat of wax
5) Try to find the cleaning rod to make it complete
6) if under the liner all the paperwork is there, photograph it, also, and note that it is included.
7) take some acetone and remove that fingernail polish or model paint from the front sight.

If you don't know how to check b/c gap and endshake and check out the mechanicals, read the Jim Marsh sticky and learn to do it. None of the steps above are to hide anything, but just to make the gun look it's best, or to make sure there's not damage the buyer will find I missed and be really angry (e.g. - like looking under the grips).

Tip: How to take off grips: Hand fit grips like these can be very tight. Unscrew the screw from the left panel 4 to 6 turns. While it's still in the nut on the other side, WITH YOUR FINGER, push the screw head hard enough to "pop" the right panel free of the frame. Remove right panel. WITH YOUR FINGER, poke through the frame R to L to pop the left panel off. This prevents damage to the grips or frame from screw drivers slipping, or prying against the frame. It's really easy, just get in the habit of doing it that way and you will prevent damage at some point.

Overall, this gun looks like a very lightly used queen that could fetch top dollar with a little maintenance and prep for the sale.
 
I'm not much on grading either but my understanding of grading a gun is that the age of the gun does have an impact on the grade. Age is weighted along with other factors.

Knowing the age and stating it as part of the sale should help.

If this particular gun were only 1-3 years old (I know it's not) it would probably grade out at 95/96%, if it's 35-40 years old 99% is a fair assesment based on the pictures.

These are just my opinions and others may disagree.
 
you guys are great!
i just bought this yesterday for $420 at a pawn shop.
the bore is beautiful
there is some pitting under the stocks.
it was made in 1978
no papers
i will clean it some more and show some pics in a bit.
i bought this as an impulse buy(arent they all?)
i plan on shooting this gun as i do all of mine.
maybe not a lot but i will shoot it!

thanks again
bill
 
Bill, that's a great deal. $420 for that is a real steal - even if there's a bit of spotting under the grips (polish it a bit, then wax it to keep it from spreading).

I got my first 27 this year and they are wonderful guns. I went to the other end of the spectrum - (3.5"!), but either way they are objects of art.
 
ok gentlemen,
these first two photographs show the one thing that scares me.
when i open the cylinder .
i can move it back and forth as shown.
it moves .035


forward
zzzzzzzzzzzz005-1.jpg




backward
zzzzzzzzzzzz004.jpg
 
1) What it does with the cylinder open isn't as important as what it does with the gun locked-up. Check it that way, and see how much the b/c gap or headspace changes. That is your "endshake."

2) Looks like someone was careless about removing the sideplate at some point (this is very common). They bugger the screws a bit, then pry instead of vibrate the plate off and tweak it at the top bend near the hammer. You vibrate the thing off (by hitting the bare grip frame with the wooden handle of a hammer a few times).

3) periodically, it's always good to get the grips off, clean and wax the frame, and put them back on - now you see why!

With the frame exposed, your finish % rating now drops, but fortunately it can be kept that way and out of sight with a bit of maintenance, not a re-finish.
 
ok with the revolver locked up.
hammer down trigger held back
there is a cylinder gap of .004
also if i try to wiggle it back and forth .
i can just barely get it to move.
just barely enough to see .
 
ok with the revolver locked up.
hammer down trigger held back
there is a cylinder gap of .004
also if i try to wiggle it back and forth .
i can just barely get it to move.
just barely enough to see .

That would be best described as - "ideal." :)

Sounds like they had the "A" team working the 27 line that week (which they always did).
 
jeeze thanks.
you guys keep giving me great news.
i guess it's true that god takes care of dummies and drunks.
and i dont drink......
 
the new photos show more flaws. Still it is a 90 to 93% gun.

personally I would find that ideal. No reason to make her a safe queen.

Use and enjoy that beautiful revolver.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top