horsemen61
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I am overwhelmed by the dizzing array of choices (AR 15 Build)
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wally
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Building an upper while a good learning experience, it will likely require you buy a few tools to complete the job, making it more expensive the first time or if you only plan on building one.
Two stage trigger is great if you plan to shoot bullseye matches or mostly off a bench rest, for "normal" field use a standard trigger is fine.
Grips, hand guards and stocks there is an enormous variety, get what you think is best for you.
For a 16" barrel I'd recommend a "mid length" while it reduces the hand guard choices somewhat, it lets you attach a bayonet same as you could with a 20" barrel if you go with the standard front sight. I also recommend a "flat top" so you can easily use an optic -- don't worry about having a standard front sight it disappears in the scope or is useful to co-witness with a flip up BUIS should you choose a red dot.
Basically keep it main stream, any of the major suppliers should be fine for parts, just watch out for Hesse/Vulcan/Blackthorne/whatever-they-call-themselves-now
Two stage trigger is great if you plan to shoot bullseye matches or mostly off a bench rest, for "normal" field use a standard trigger is fine.
Grips, hand guards and stocks there is an enormous variety, get what you think is best for you.
For a 16" barrel I'd recommend a "mid length" while it reduces the hand guard choices somewhat, it lets you attach a bayonet same as you could with a 20" barrel if you go with the standard front sight. I also recommend a "flat top" so you can easily use an optic -- don't worry about having a standard front sight it disappears in the scope or is useful to co-witness with a flip up BUIS should you choose a red dot.
Basically keep it main stream, any of the major suppliers should be fine for parts, just watch out for Hesse/Vulcan/Blackthorne/whatever-they-call-themselves-now
That was my first thought as well. One , but certainly not the only, reason there are so many choices is because the AR is a versatile gun that can be tailored towards a lot of different uses. I'm not going to use the same parts for a precision gun that I would for a duty gun, and a competition gun would be set up differently still.
The second big consideration behind what will you use it for, is what is your budget.
Its hard to give any kind of useful input without knowing what it will be used for and how much money you are willing to spend.
I was in the same boat as you are about 2 months ago. Just finished building my lower and I'm still undecided which route I want to go with my upper.
Best thing to do is take your time and do your own research. You really don't want to rush into something. This will save you time, money and regrets. Ar15.com and youtube are great places to start. Its definitely time consuming but at the end of the day your going to have the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Once you've decided on what type of rifle you want to build arpartsfinder.com is another good place to look for parts.
Best thing to do is take your time and do your own research. You really don't want to rush into something. This will save you time, money and regrets. Ar15.com and youtube are great places to start. Its definitely time consuming but at the end of the day your going to have the satisfaction of building it yourself.
Once you've decided on what type of rifle you want to build arpartsfinder.com is another good place to look for parts.
Jackal
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Go here and rejoice. http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/
For picking parts, knowing what you planning on doing with it would help. Target, varmint, 3 gun, plinking, nation match, hunting, etc.
If you have the budget to get a good barrel nut wrench and vise blocks, then build the upper. Even with that said, PSA (mentioned above) and other sites have lots of good affordable uppers. I would start simple.
If you have the budget to get a good barrel nut wrench and vise blocks, then build the upper. Even with that said, PSA (mentioned above) and other sites have lots of good affordable uppers. I would start simple.
Crunchy Frog
Member
I got everything I needed from PSA. I like a good trigger so I added one.
You might save a little money by purchasing a "lower build kit" which includes the stock, buffer tube and buffer/spring assembly as well as the parts that come with the lower parts kit.
I purchased a complete upper since I did not have the special tools needed to assemble an upper from the component parts.
You might save a little money by purchasing a "lower build kit" which includes the stock, buffer tube and buffer/spring assembly as well as the parts that come with the lower parts kit.
I purchased a complete upper since I did not have the special tools needed to assemble an upper from the component parts.
ACP
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yes, horsemen61, what do you want to do with it?
for plinking and self-defense, I chose an old Bushmaster model (no longer available) with a 16" barrel, fixed carry handle A2 sights, no muzzle brake, A2 stock. I put a RR two-stage trigger in it, an extended charging handle, and an Ashley Express XO tritium front sight (vertical white bar).
I've had and shot others. I like this simple configuration the best.
If you're going to shoot gun games or competitive bullseye, there are other options.
for plinking and self-defense, I chose an old Bushmaster model (no longer available) with a 16" barrel, fixed carry handle A2 sights, no muzzle brake, A2 stock. I put a RR two-stage trigger in it, an extended charging handle, and an Ashley Express XO tritium front sight (vertical white bar).
I've had and shot others. I like this simple configuration the best.
If you're going to shoot gun games or competitive bullseye, there are other options.
A good trigger is a wise investment, and SOMETIMES you can get a good deal on 'blocks' of parts.
IE Magpul furniture, etc. PSA has a 'block' deal on some parts at present. For example: http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/MGMOEKITOD.aspx
I'd recommend a flat top for most people. You likelihood of needing to use a fixed bayonet is far less likely in a long range rifle. You can probably skip this feature.
16 vs. 20 inch? That 4 inches is a lot of sight radius if you are using irons. If you're NOT using irons.. what's the rifle for? Varminting? Precision targets? Why not a 24 inch barrel? FREE FLOATING is GOOD, regardless of barrel length.
I am really happy with the quality of parts I got from Model One Sales.
I WILL say, I really LIKE the Hogue monogrip for AR's.
Fixed stock? Collapsible stock? You can spend a small fortune on a stock, or say, start with an M4 'stock' stock, and upgrade later.
IE Magpul furniture, etc. PSA has a 'block' deal on some parts at present. For example: http://dsgarms.com/ProductInfo/MGMOEKITOD.aspx
I'd recommend a flat top for most people. You likelihood of needing to use a fixed bayonet is far less likely in a long range rifle. You can probably skip this feature.
16 vs. 20 inch? That 4 inches is a lot of sight radius if you are using irons. If you're NOT using irons.. what's the rifle for? Varminting? Precision targets? Why not a 24 inch barrel? FREE FLOATING is GOOD, regardless of barrel length.
I am really happy with the quality of parts I got from Model One Sales.
I WILL say, I really LIKE the Hogue monogrip for AR's.
Fixed stock? Collapsible stock? You can spend a small fortune on a stock, or say, start with an M4 'stock' stock, and upgrade later.
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horsemen61
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Well see guys I have had one ar in the past I bought it complete a Windham weaponry sight ready carbine iirc anyways I have no idea where I want to go with this build I'm thinking maybe 6.8 spc II PSA has a complete kit which sounds intriguing so that's one idea I'm going to look into this more thoroughly thanks horsemen 61
briansmithwins
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6.8 is a mistake unless you have very good reasons for choosing it. 556 is cheaper all the way around and if you decide later you _must_ have a 6.8 rifle you can swap the barrel and bolt yourself.
For general use, for myself, I built a mid-length gas, light weight barrel, flat top with Magpul furniture including a CTR adjustable stock. Mid-length gas gets you softer operation than carbine, the light weight barrel balances well, and the Magpul kit is well thought out, well, made, and fairly inexpensive.
I'd start with irons and leave optics for later. What optic to use is another subject.
BSW
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wally
Member
I didn't mean to imply it was necessary, but it makes the ascetics vis-a-vie the 20" or 14.5" GI guns look right.
OTOH if you plan a home defense role for your AR, a bayonet would definitely help with weapon retention
I would not go with a non-5.56/223 round if it was going to be my only AR. 6.8 spc, 6.5 grendel, or 300blk are more expensive, hard to find local, etc. For a second AR, sure. Nothing wrong with 6.8spc. I like the ballistics of the 6.5 personally.
It's ridiculous to see the amount of parts you can build one with. My problem is I started building one, and my wife took an interest. What was supposed to be a heavy barrel full length rifle is now a lightweight carbine with pink furniture. I just ordered another receiver so I can build the one I set out to build from the start.
I am working on one to. I think I'm headed more for a varmint / coyote gun than any kind of battle gun.
So far I have a Spikes stripped lower, a RRA 2 stage 3.5 lb LPK, A spikes 6 position receiver extension & spring, a spikes T2 buffer, A used Vltor emod butt stock I found on the AR15 EE, a PSA blem BCG, Gunfighter mod 4 charge handle, and a Vltor MUR upper receiver.
I am kind of stuck on a barrel (and optics). Thinking 18" or 20" med contour rifle gas system with a carbon fiber handguard. Still shopping for this. I'd like to end up with a gun that can shoot 1 moa with reasonable reloads (think LNL loaded, not necessarily one offs from my forster co-ax). Really stuck on selecting a bbl - and then actually finding one.
So far I have a Spikes stripped lower, a RRA 2 stage 3.5 lb LPK, A spikes 6 position receiver extension & spring, a spikes T2 buffer, A used Vltor emod butt stock I found on the AR15 EE, a PSA blem BCG, Gunfighter mod 4 charge handle, and a Vltor MUR upper receiver.
I am kind of stuck on a barrel (and optics). Thinking 18" or 20" med contour rifle gas system with a carbon fiber handguard. Still shopping for this. I'd like to end up with a gun that can shoot 1 moa with reasonable reloads (think LNL loaded, not necessarily one offs from my forster co-ax). Really stuck on selecting a bbl - and then actually finding one.
I should have free float + bayonet lug doesn't make sense. I have a bayonet I don't even know why, it doesn't fit my 6920.
HOWEVER, there are a variety of flashlight and laser options that mount on a lug, rather than on rails--so it's not a completely wasted feature.
Go here: http://www.model1sales.com/ take a look at some of the possibilities of builds and maybe you'll get a better idea of what you want?
I Think the BIG choices are:
1. fixed or adjustable stock (which isn't THAT hard to swap out)
2. Flat top or not?
3. barrel length and caliber (almost everyone will tell you to get a 5.56mm chamber or 'wylde' chamber over .223 commercial.. which will be tighter) and twist rate. The faster the twist rate, the heavier bullets you can shoot accurately ie 1:7 or 1:8 should shoot 77gr bullets more accurately than a 1:12 or 1:14 varmint barrel--which will shoot very light 35-55 gr bullets very well.
4. free float or not?
Beyond that you are really 'window dressing' your build and can be swapped out with a minimum of hand tools or no tools at all. "What you want it for" is a broad overall question you should have a notion about before you build.
free float + bayonet lug doesn't make sense. I have a bayonet I don't even know why, it doesn't fit my 6920.HOWEVER, there are a variety of flashlight and laser options that mount on a lug, rather than on rails--so it's not a completely wasted feature.
Go here: http://www.model1sales.com/ take a look at some of the possibilities of builds and maybe you'll get a better idea of what you want?
I Think the BIG choices are:
1. fixed or adjustable stock (which isn't THAT hard to swap out)
2. Flat top or not?
3. barrel length and caliber (almost everyone will tell you to get a 5.56mm chamber or 'wylde' chamber over .223 commercial.. which will be tighter) and twist rate. The faster the twist rate, the heavier bullets you can shoot accurately ie 1:7 or 1:8 should shoot 77gr bullets more accurately than a 1:12 or 1:14 varmint barrel--which will shoot very light 35-55 gr bullets very well.
4. free float or not?
Beyond that you are really 'window dressing' your build and can be swapped out with a minimum of hand tools or no tools at all. "What you want it for" is a broad overall question you should have a notion about before you build.
DougW
Member
THIS POST is exactly why I own a bunch or AR's! I can't descide, and changing out parts builds an inventory. One day you will look up and realize that you only need an upper, BCG, charging handle and rear sight to finish out another rifle.
breakingcontact
Member
Go to a good gun show if possible. Or buy some gun magazines. You can get some ideas there. I was never really into red dots until I was able to check out an Aimpoint in person at the gun show.
Regular Joe
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There are just 2 basic AR configurations. Carbine, where I think too many people go, and rifle. I knew from the start that I wanted a high capacity varmint rifle that would fit in the back of my Subaru Forester. This is where it ended up:
That's the Weaver K-6 scope in the photo, but it normally and currently wears a Nikon 6~18 Buckmasters.
This one holds 1 MOA out to 300 yards, which I consider to be the practical limit of the cartridge.
I paid $850 for the rifle, 2 years ago. With the glass, free float tube, Geissele trigger, Magpul stuff, light, and spare parts, it now stands at just about $2k.
The solid stock is important to me, because it has a compartment that holds my spare bolt assembly, along with a spare firing pin and cam pin. I don't want to be stranded in the middle of a Wyoming prairie dog hunt and need any of that, with home being 600 miles away.
This one holds 1 MOA out to 300 yards, which I consider to be the practical limit of the cartridge.
I paid $850 for the rifle, 2 years ago. With the glass, free float tube, Geissele trigger, Magpul stuff, light, and spare parts, it now stands at just about $2k.
The solid stock is important to me, because it has a compartment that holds my spare bolt assembly, along with a spare firing pin and cam pin. I don't want to be stranded in the middle of a Wyoming prairie dog hunt and need any of that, with home being 600 miles away.
I prefer a two stage trigger from shooting service Rifle matches. I keep the trigger pull "match legal" although you can tune the trigger to about anything. Depends on the proposed use for the rifle.
I would get a lower parts kit so that you do not miss any parts. lots of itty bitty pins and springs to forget when ordering parts. Parts kits come with a trigger but since I buy a good two stage trigger, I have a box full of triggers from parts kits. I have used DPMS kits in the past and currently have Double Star. I do not see any difference between them.
Assembling an upper is a worth while endeavor but there are a few tools you may have to buy. If you think you might build more than one upper along the way, then buy the tools and assemble your own. One big advantage is you can pick the parts you want on the rifle. I would go with a flat top upper as they are more versatile unless you are wanting a retro rifle.
As many have said, the main purpose of the rifle will dictate what parts will be wanted for the upper.
Have fun with your project.
horsemen61
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alright well guys I need a lpk any suggestions thanks horsemen61
Here is a lower parts kit.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/556138/doublestar-lower-receiver-parts-kit-ar-15
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/556138/doublestar-lower-receiver-parts-kit-ar-15
Here are sights i trust and buy from regularly. MidwayUSA, Palmetto State Armory, Aim Surplus, DSG Arms, Joe Bob Outfitters and Primary Arms.
I have used PSA house brand, Daniel Defense, Spikes, DPMS LPKs without issue. CMT, Stag, CMMG and Rock River would probably be other good choices.
I have used PSA house brand, Daniel Defense, Spikes, DPMS LPKs without issue. CMT, Stag, CMMG and Rock River would probably be other good choices.
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