I broke my Ruger

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DC3-CVN-72

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I have a Ruger Blackhawk convertable in .357 MAG./ .9MM. with a 4 5/8 in. bbl. yesterday I was shooting FEDERAL 125 GR. HI-SHOK JHP. after the 3rd. shot I went to pull the hammer back and and it would not budge, I was like :confused:. upon ferther inspection the ejector rod was all the way forward and the cylinder release was gone.:eek: I don't know if it just came loose or the part failed because the part is no where to be found. I slid the ejector rod back in place and the gun functions normal so I just need a cylinder release. I bought this gun used 10 yrs. ago, do you think Ruger will send me one for free or will I have to pay for it? If so how much do they cost? thank's in advance. :)
 
Sounds like the screw just came loose on the cylinder pin lock. Ruger will more than likely send you the parts for free if you call the parts department. Even if they charge you it'll probably be less than ten bucks including shipping.

The screw takes a special or modified screwdriver to put on as it has an open end for the other side to go through so you need a gap in the center of the screwdriver blade. Buy a junk screwdriver and dremel out a little notch and you're good to go. Use blue loc-tite and you should be good to go.
 
Everything you need to know is on Rugers web-site

If you'd gone to Rugers web-site http://ruger.com and drilled down throgh the "customer support" area you would have found that you need to order a base pin latch body ($1.50), a base pin latch nut ($1.50) and a base pin latch spring ($.50) and that you can order them from the Newport NH facility at 603-865-2442. They'll probably send them to you for free when you call in.
 
Some folks routinely upon purchase of a Ruger SA, immediately replace the factory basepin with a belt mountain. Its an excellent preventative step, and somethink it even improves the accuracy and reliability of their ruger.

IIRC its oversize so it doesnt turn with the cylinder like the factory model and that lowers the stress on the locking pin.
 
You're also going to need to modify a screwdriver to install the nut. You have to cut a notch in the center of the blade so it will go over the end of the latch pin. Use a little blue LocTite so it doesn't happen again.
 
Terminology is all over the place in this thread. I think the OP means his BASE PIN was forward, NOT the ejector rod! To the OP: Please do be advised the thing that goes through the center of the cyliner IS NOT the ejector rod. The housing on the lower right portion of the barrel, holds the ejector rod, which is the thing used to eject the cartridges. jaybar is right on target, I do believe, regarding the missing parts.
 
quote[If you'd gone to Rugers web-site http://ruger.com and drilled down throgh the "customer support" area you would have found that you need to order a base pin latch body ($1.50), a base pin latch nut ($1.50) and a base pin latch spring ($.50) and that you can order them from the Newport NH facility at 603-865-2442.]

jaybar has it right except they may charge you for it but it's not expensive. Shipping charges probably more than the parts. Actually there's nothing wrong with the factory base pin if it fits together right. There are people over at Ruger forum that will gladly give you details of fitting the factory base pin latch assembly.
 
I have owned three Blackhawks. A 357, a 41 and a super 44. I have had this problem (screws loosening and falling out or off) with all of them. I have had two single-six's and a bearcat. Ditto.

Love them to death, but when you buy a Ruger Six-Gun, one MUST apply lock-tite to every screw on the gun. If you don't, sooner or later it will fly off the gun during a shooting session.

Good thing is, I have never had Ruger charge me a cent for replacing them.
 
I have two Blackhawks, one a "200th Year of Independence" model, and the other only a couple of years old. The older gun had to have a Belt Mountain base pin installed. The newer gun has never had a problem with the base pin coming loose while shooting.
 
I called RUGER today and spoke with Betty, she asked me what I needed then the serial number of the gun,my address,then said that a new base pin latch,nut,& spring were on the way at no charge.:)
 
Bless Their Hearts! Because I know (for sure) that if you're goofy enough (I was) to send one to 'em for repair with ANY non-Ruger parts installed (whoops!)...they'll jerk those bad boys out & REPLACE 'em with stock, factory parts before return shipment. I guess it's a liability thing. They did, however, return the aftermarket parts loose in the box.

But if you've got a well-tuned Ruger revolver, do your best NOT to send it in.
 
Its tough being right all of the time!!!

Jaybar's free advice:

If you'd gone to Rugers web-site http://ruger.com and drilled down throgh the "customer support" area you would have found that you need to order a base pin latch body ($1.50), a base pin latch nut ($1.50) and a base pin latch spring ($.50) and that you can order them from the Newport NH facility at 603-865-2442. They'll probably send them to you for free when you call in.
Click to expand...

I called RUGER today and spoke with Betty, she asked me what I needed then the serial number of the gun,my address,then said that a new base pin latch,nut,& spring were on the way at no charge.
Click to expand...

You got your money's worth out of that free advice.

Now make sure that you follow 461's advice when you put it back together:

The screw takes a special or modified screwdriver to put on as it has an open end for the other side to go through so you need a gap in the center of the screwdriver blade. Buy a junk screwdriver and dremel out a little notch and you're good to go. Use blue loc-tite and you should be good to go.
Click to expand...
 
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