I done did it: ASM brass 1860 army “avenging angel”

You can get the muzzle square using a small square and files, tedious, yes it is. But it can be done with patience. By the way is it an octagon barrel?
 
Hello 1KPerDay,

When I cut down my 1851, I set it upside down on a parallel bar in the Mill Vise,
with shim stock on the muzzle end to compensate for the taper.
Then just ran an end mill across the muzzle.
For the crown, I just used a countersink and cut just the lands by hand.
I'm not sure if the 1860 has a taper, not very knowledgeable on the 1850.
If it's straight, you could square it up with a belt sander checking for squareness.

AntiqueSledMan.
I'd definitely prefer to have access to a mill rather than hacksaw/mangle/file/sand/swear. LOL
 
You can get the muzzle square using a small square and files, tedious, yes it is. But it can be done with patience. By the way is it an octagon barrel?
No, it's the 1860 Army style, rounded barrel.
 

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The round grinding stone works as I have used it a few times. Lazy? Chuck it up in a variable speed drill and go really slow. Finish up with a brass screw and fine Clover valve grinding compound. Rotate the drill in a circle instead of trying to hold it straight as you do both.
 
Cover a billiard ball with a sheet of emery paper and crown the bore.

Squaring the muzzle on a tapered barrel without a lathe or mill is very much a trial and error sort of thing. File a little and then eyeball it. Need more filed here or there? Go for it! I have done a couple. Actually a bit of enjoyment if you approach it with the right attitude.

Kevin
 
Cover a billiard ball with a sheet of emery paper and crown the bore.

Squaring the muzzle on a tapered barrel without a lathe or mill is very much a trial and error sort of thing. File a little and then eyeball it. Need more filed here or there? Go for it! I have done a couple. Actually a bit of enjoyment if you approach it with the right attitude.

Kevin
as far as I can tell the "flats" of the side of the barrel assembly where the wedge goes through are parallel. I haven't checked for sure but I bet they're close. I was wondering if I could lay that flat on the rest for a disc sander, and square up the top of the barrel using a mounted square or something (like on a compound mitre saw or something), and disc sand the end of the barrel square. I still have a bit of room before the bottom groove for the rack and pinion lever. the bottom of the muzzle is definitely angled backward at this point compared to the rest.
 
DC9D7326-BEAB-4124-A5C7-5276230D008D.jpeg 4DC370D2-A716-431D-B9A9-BD06D03D5339.jpeg E0DC676D-2E78-4D18-804E-D95027BD6DC7.jpeg ACE79FC0-C605-41DC-95DD-B98855B8EEA0.jpeg 9F2F0942-ACE7-4BE9-9533-B0FAFC21AC83.jpeg Finally bought a disc sander, set it to 90 with a carpenter square, and got the muzzle squared off. Only took me a year LOL. I tried the case mouth chamfering tool for the crown and, um… it mangled it pretty good. This steel must be pretty soft I guess. I wasn’t super aggressive. I guess I need to sand it back square and start over? Or should I shoot it first? Does it even matter on a belly gun?
 
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Shoot it first, as long as that chamfer is even and somewhat smooth it should be ok. You can also go back over it with very light pressure and clean it up. Another alternative is wrap some 400 grit wet/ dry sandpaper around the chamfer tool and lightly polish it.
 
Shoot it first, as long as that chamfer is even and somewhat smooth it should be ok. You can also go back over it with very light pressure and clean it up. Another alternative is wrap some 400 grit wet/ dry sandpaper around the chamfer tool and lightly polish it.
It’s not even as it looks like it chipped in places. I’ll try polishing it as you suggest and see how it shoots.
 
You know you can post those as big pictures and save us all a click.
I didn’t want to blow up people’s screens. I never know how large they’re going to be and when I try to load the smaller versions the forum software flips them sideways.
 
Cover a billiard ball with a sheet of emery paper and crown the bore.

Squaring the muzzle on a tapered barrel without a lathe or mill is very much a trial and error sort of thing. File a little and then eyeball it. Need more filed here or there? Go for it! I have done a couple. Actually a bit of enjoyment if you approach it with the right attitude.

Kevin

Buy a small machinist's square. Then it won't be so much trial and error and you can actually see what needs removed where. A 3/4" abrasive ball in a cordless drill works well for the first stage of a crown job.
 
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Buy a small machinist's square. Then it won't be so much trial and error and you can actually see what needs removed where. A 3/4" abrasive ball in a cordless drill works well for the first stage of a crown job.


What are you using as a witness for the square to rest on?

Kevin
 
Trying the vinegar fumes method for aging the brass. Looks like acetone maybe didn’t remove enough of the oil from before. At least that’s my theory. Where I got verdegris? Is there a good way to remove the green without polishing the brass back to bright? 56884EFC-23CC-4AA3-B9D0-034B2E34A6DA.jpeg 87056611-20C8-4FFB-97EE-F03464BE668C.jpeg C4E4AF8D-B321-484E-BA46-381770D780BA.jpeg
 
I think the shape of the barrel really lends its self to a shallow arching wide triangular front sight dovetailed in, but that’s a bit of careful work to accomplish.

Drilling a small hole in the barrel is pretty easy comparatively. Also, it’s very simple to use a small diamond file to make a brass bead by chucking up a little bit of brass rod in a drill press and shaping it yourself. You could also tap the hole and order a regular shotgun bead premade, if that suits you better.

Ive posted it before, but here’s my I.J. .38 which I cut and made a bead for.
index.php

It’s held up to a good amount of carry and shooting over the last 3 years. I didn’t even tap the hole or thread the bead, just a simple brass plug tightly pressed into a hole in the top of the barrel.
 
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