I get it

Status
Not open for further replies.
S

spartywrx

Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
219
Location
Rust Belt
I get why people love these cap and ball revolvers. I broke down and got one today. Man this thing is sweet. I suddenly don't like my XDsc that's my CCW gun.

I'm new to blackpowder. I have the manuals and everything that came along with the gun, but could you guys point me in the direction of all the gadgets and gizmos that I'll need to feed my new toy? The manuals were not that specific. Also, can someone recommend a projectile and powder for me? Its a .44 Texas New Army from Cabelas made by Pietta.

Now I have to find a sweet looking holster and some chutzpah to open carry it.

3999094498_1efcc3d566.png

3999097038_ab7b98fc56.png

3998344349_5e8512431c.png

3999105214_a4e6897cf2.png
 
Fine looking gun.

First, read the sticky thread, Black Powder Essentials at the top of this forum. Much good information in that thread. It'll take a while, but it's all worth it.

Minimum stuff to go with the gun:
adjustable powder measure or selection of fixed measures, like empty cartridge cases cut to hold a specific volume of powder
powder flask
percussion caps (size TBD - no way to predict this, you'll need to try them out to see what works best)
powder - real black fffg recommended, but Pyrodex RS, Triple 7 fffg and others are ok, even preferred by some
felt overpowder wads or 'grease' to seal chambers after loading. The wads go between the powder and projectile, the grease goes over the projectile after loading. You don't need both. Lubed wads help keep fouling soft.
cleaning rod, cleaning patches, cleaning jag to screw onto the cleaning rod.

That's it. You can, and probably will buy all kinds of stuff from speedloaders to loading stands to possible bags to capping tools. All good things but not mandatory to enjoy the sport.

Recommended projectile and load: .454 round ball, 20 gr by volume of fffg real black powder (or 20 gr by volume of Pyrodex RS or 15 gr by volume of 777 fffg). Plus either the felt overpowder wad or Crisco (grease) to seal the chamber mouth.
 
What a GOOD lookin' Texa NMA shooter !!

Gonna have to go a little light on the loads with that brass frame... but, they're purdy to look at ! :cool:

Nipple wrench
Anti-seize for nipple threads
Some good metal polish (I'm a Flitz fan)
FFFG powder (Get what tickles yer fancy)
Some Bore Butter (or equiv.)
A bore brush
A gaggle of patches
Solvent
Synthetic gun oil
Don't forget the RB (Check the manual for your caliber)
A good cleaning jag (I like the ones that'll positively hold a patch)
Cleaning rod kit
Good set of gunsmithing screwdrivers for taking it apart for thorough cleanings.
Decide whether a loading stand makes ya grin.
Percussion caps (Find what yours likes to shoot, then stock up)
Whitening toothpaste to get the soot off your chompers when you're done... grinnin' while shootin' does that to a feller.
 
a .357 shell would do as a powder measure until you get a real one.make sure you have a .44/.45 bronze brush as well,as you're going to want to remove the grips and scrub every chamber and the bore with really hot water and dish soap when you're done.
 
There are alternatives to water and soap if you want to keep your new piece of steel away from any potential invitations to rust. Hoppe's Elite Black Powder Solvent, for example, is specifically formulated to cut through the fouling; penetrates into the pores of the metal. Birchwood Casey also has an excellent Black Powder solvent and cleaner, among others. These can also be carried out into the field where access to hot water and a hair dryer can be problematic.

Lots of folks like to use hot, soapy water because of tradition; it's how it was done back in the days of yesteryear. Back in those days, they also used horses and buggies for transportation, died of the smallpox and T.B., strained their eyes using kerosene lamps at night and performed surgery without washing their hands after they wiped their butts with corn cobs out in the privy that they got to by stomping through the horse manure. They did these things because nothing better was available, not because of some sense of tradition.

All I can say is that I'm glad we've moved into a new world where powerful alternatives are available.

I will accede to the fact that hot soapy water is nearly free; but the solvents, while not free, are negligible in cost, and pay off in peace of mind that hot, soapy water will never touch my babies.
 
To each his own, but hot water and soap were what were recommended to me, and that's what I use. Stainless steel guns go into the dishwasher (less the grips), blued guns go into the sink with the hot water and Dawn detergent (less the grips). I even wash my 686 in the dishwasher now (less the grips)! The dishwasher drying cycle is a bit slow, so I still put SS my guns in the oven at 175 degs for several minutes, along with the blued guns. Spray with Ballistol, reassemble, and I'm ready to go again. No rust so far on any of my blued guns, although I am very careful to dry them thoroughly in the oven, and lube them with water displacing Ballistol afterward. The brass bits get a dose of Flitz polish every now and again on the 8" buffing wheel, when I am in the mood, but that is becoming less and less. BHP Fan's mustard look is growing on me. :D

BTW, a little Flitz on the buffing wheel makes a stainless steel gun just absolutely impossible to look at in bright sun. I love that stuff!
 
Welcome to the dark side.
Projectiles in that thing are round balls more than likely a .454 round ball over 20 grains for a brass frame. dont forget the wad or bore butter over the ball.
Clean up is easy hot soapy water works best for me.
 
Welcome to our nightmare:evil: An insidious world of smoke, hot lead and lots of flame!!!! There is no reprieve from the urges that you now must succumb. BUY MORE GUNS!!! Welcome:D.
 
Bigbad - dishwashers? Ovens? Hair dryers? I just spritz a little Hoppes Elite on a couple of patches and I'm done. Not a sign of rust or corrosion, and the treatment leaves a coating that acts as a rust inhibitor. The hot water method takes, what, two hours to accomplish? I get it all done in something like twenty minutes to a half an hour, and I don't even have to think about rust. Why bother with water when there are so many better alternatives available? You say your guns are rust free; how do you know that's true down in those little nooks and crannies you can't see but that you've been pouring a rust initiator into all these years? :uhoh:

Please understand, I'm not being critical, merely joining in the debate. As you say, to each their own. I suggest you loose that old-fashioned time-consuming and potentially damaging practice and move into the twenty-first century... Give it a try, you may actually like it. :cool:

P.S. +1 on the Ballistol. Wonderful stuff.
 
Last edited:
If I came home from shooting with just one dirty revolver then hand cleaning is fine, but I normally have a half dozen or more. I pop the grips, cylinders and barrels. Into the dishwasher they go. Then they are sprayed down with Ballistol. I hit them with compressed air the following morning and a wipe down with Eezox and I'm done.

The best way to clean these is the way you feel most comfortable with.
 
Congratulations

on your fine lookin Gun Slinger Texan 58 , beautiful gun, good pics, your one of us now, sorry , but your now addicted and you can't back out :D

Welcome ! Das Jaeger
 
Everyone has their opinion, but to clean Black powder residue Hot soapy water and hot rinse water is the cleaner that Mother Earth provided for a naural cleanin' of the Holy Black ... nothin' works easier or better... All most of your BP Solvents are is 80% water with machining water soluable oil in them to begin with.
Think what you will, but if straight water and scrubbin' work jus' add soap & heat and you got it made.
(my $.02)
 
Thanks for all the advice. I can't wait to get it out to the range and lob some lead at pumpkins. Unfortunately due to school that won't be for at least until Halloween weekend. That will give me some time to gather up all my blackpowder gadgets. I like getting interesting and different guns than everyone with a Glock. I think this is the start of that.

Thinking about the dishwasher trick, my anti-gun brother (my roommate, he's a big fan of Bloomberg) would have a heart attack if he opened the dishwasher up and saw a pistol in there.


Welcome to our nightmare An insidious world of smoke, hot lead and lots of flame!!!! There is no reprieve from the urges that you now must succumb. BUY MORE GUNS!!! Welcome.
Click to expand...

ME LIKE BIG BOOM!
 
Bigbad - dishwashers? Ovens? Hair dryers? I just spritz a little Hoppes Elite on a couple of patches and I'm done. Not a sign of rust or corrosion, and the treatment leaves a coating that acts as a rust inhibitor. The hot water method takes, what, two hours to accomplish? I get it all done in something like twenty minutes to a half an hour, and I don't even have to think about rust. Why bother with water when there are so many better alternatives available? You say your guns are rust free; how do you know that's true down in those little nooks and crannies you can't see but that you've been pouring a rust initiator into all these years?

Please understand, I'm not being critical, merely joining in the debate. As you say, to each their own. I suggest you loose that old-fashioned time-consuming and potentially damaging practice and move into the twenty-first century... Give it a try, you may actually like it.
Click to expand...

Thats right to each his own. But after a day at the range I really enjoy the clean up part . It is truly part of the bp experience. When you are done at the range and you get home smelling like rotten eggs. Then its time to pop a cold brew or 2 and open that old charcol eater up to the last screw and CLEAN EVERY NOOK AND CRANNY and then rinse with d natured alcohole. lube everything up with olive oil and put it all back together. My Hawkens my 58 remmy .44 and my pocket remmy all love the excersice and I love the work out. So I should try to change what works for me? Hmmmm no thanks. but thanks for the advise.
Everyone has their opinion, but to clean Black powder residue Hot soapy water and hot rinse water is the cleaner that Mother Earth provided for a naural cleanin' of the Holy Black ... nothin' works easier or better... All most of your BP Solvents are is 80% water with machining water soluable oil in them to begin with.
Think what you will, but if straight water and scrubbin' work jus' add soap & heat and you got it made.
(my $.02)
Click to expand...
 
All most of your BP Solvents are is 80% water with machining water soluable oil in them to begin with.
Click to expand...

Not completely accurate, but I'll bite and say that it's the other 20% that makes all the difference. Hot Water may be Mother Nature's natural solution, but to say nothing works faster or better is simply hyperbole. New days call for new solutions, my friend.

Not wanting to start an argument, just stating my opinion.

These new shooters need to be aware af all of the options available to them.
 
HeeHee! And I'd jus' as soon not re-invent the "wheel"gun or improve on a perfectly good method of cleanin' Antique or BP firearms myself... :O)
I clean four revolvers in 45 minutes with the two bucket method and some Stator Brother's apple sented dishsoap ...What more could I ask for?:cool:
 
to say nothing works faster or better is simply hyperbole. New days call for new solutions, my friend.

Not wanting to start an argument, just stating my opinion.
Click to expand...

To characterize another person's opinion as hyperbole is argumentative.

I'm simply responding to your argument.
 
If I tried to put guns in the dishwasher I would be faced with a choice: My wife or the guns. I clean in a bucket of hot soapy water. Air compressor and oil the moving parts and bore butter in the chambers and bore. I also use bore butter on the threads of the nipples. Hot water and soap gets 'em clean, intelligence keeps 'em rust free.
 
OK, I want a show of hands here. How many of you dishwasher types remove your nipples after each shoot? My method is not fast but efficient. I take down the cylinder, nipples and loading lever. Clean all available surfaces (including the frame area) w/ a tooth brush and Windex, swab out the bbl till it shines, spray all w/ a compressor and lube as I put the pieces back together. I do a complete disassemble every 5 outing's or so with each gun. Never had rust, or sludge major build-up in the works for over 15 yrs now. Also, my oil is Hoppes Gun Oil.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top