I hate sharpening!!!

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Some steel is tougher than others. Comparing say S30V to 440...the S30V is going to be harder to get sharp, but it will stay sharp longer. The opposite goes for something like the 440. Keep what you have but get a Spyderco Sharpmaker. It's the easiest to use in my opinion. Plus you can do lots of other household sharpening with it so it won't be a waste if you switch to something else later. I like to use a hone and a strop on some knives to really get them crazy sharp. Straight razors too. Good secret is use almost no pressure. Just let the weight of the knife do the work. When you pull off, go straight up, don't come off slow at an angle or you'll round off the edge on the way off.

Now...some knifemakers put a convex edge on their blades. To keep it convex without reprofiling, you can't use something like a lansky or a sharpmaker. You can do those easy without spending money by hand using an old mousepad and some sandpaper.

The easiest way to sharpen is never let them get really dull. Unless you're cutting stuff all day long every day with it....a good blade shouldn't get super dull in a day or 2. I know that's easier said than done. Touching up a knife can take less than a minute though.
 
atomd

Now...some knifemakers put a convex edge on their blades. To keep it convex without reprofiling, you can't use something like a lansky or a sharpmaker.

Some fellows are using a slack belt to sharpen the applessed edge. Or to convert a strait taper to the applessed shape.
 
I do convex edges on flat stones simply by varying the angle slightly..... Smooth'em out on the strop when finished...

It's basically a micro-beveled edge with an infinite number of tiny micro-bevels, each a tiny touch steeper than the one before.... I basically do this unconsciously, I think...

J
 
I have a Lansky sharpening system that I have owned for about 15 years. It makes sharpening so easy, I can't imagine how you could screw it up. In fact, I would rather use a system then try and freehand it, because the angles are perfect. I even have a little notebook that I keep in the case that lists all my knives and what angles they are beveled at.
 
Easiest way I know to sharpen a knife is to put a really worn-out 400-600 grit belt on a belt sander, establish your edge, then use a polishing wheel to remove the wire edge and polish the cutting edge. Razor sharp in less time than it takes to describe it. This is the method David Boye uses in his book 'Knifemaking, You Can Do It'.
 
A lot of people don't like to sharpen. I think it's kind of fun sometimes actually. I took an old beat up Dovo straight razor out of the box last week..sharpened it. Then I used a bench hone with 2 different types of paste, and finished on a plain leather strop. You know a straight razor is sharp when you can take a piece of hair, put it between your fingers and chop the end sticking out into 3 different pieces while it hangs from your fingers. :D Sharpening an old beat up junker is like breathing life into something. It goes from completely useless to very useful in a matter of minutes. I shaved with it right after and it did the trick.
 
That's how I am AtomD. Where I find dull, I must sharpen. I found my dad's chisels. Some are not very good but others are worth keeping. I am going to have to sharpen them.
 
Lansky systems rock. Usually after doing the initial sharpen (I keep different use knives at different edge angles), I can touch it up by hand with one of the hones.

Stone sharpening is a skill of it's own. Find an old boy scout's manual (preferably early 90s, as that's the one I had)....it has the esentials for knife sharpening via whetstone. I'm not sure if the post religious buy-out of the scouts if that info is still intact however...so older may be better when looking for a scout handbook.

I cannot provide the info since I've lost mine a long time ago....I think my mother threw it out since it was so worn that I string-bound the book together.

The basics.....about a 15-20 degree angle from the stone....one pass each direction until it forms an edge. Feel that edge with your thumb to find out if the edge is centered, if not, start paying more attention to that side (2 strokes on that side, one on the other to prevent burrs)....check it after about 2 times on each side. If you notice it's now over the other way, do this just one time the other way.

Once the edge is centered...now it's time to work on polishing the edge....get your fine stone out and give it careful passes....when done, if you do a thumbnail test (wet thumbnail, using only the weight of the blade, drag it along the nail), you should feel some resistance to the pull, but never any chatter or grittiness to the edge.

That's the way I've came up with for how I work on my knives using stones. I have a 4k/8k Norton combo, a white arkansas stone, and a pile of barber's hones.
 
I always use the bottom of my coffee cup to dress up my pocket knife. I have a fiskars/smiths for the kitchen knives with a carbide "V" on one side and a ceramic "V" on the other.
lloveless
 
I just picked up a Gerber DF8 sharpener. I wanted something idiot-proof. I just sharpened my Benchmade 520 with a 440C blade that was as dull as a butter knife. It's now razor sharp with maybe 20 passes and no burs that I can detect. It seems to force the blade into a 30 degree orientation. It's on the small side but is quite portable. I'll have to see how it works on harder steel.
 
a sharpener like lansky or theres other brands that is similiar do work great and after using one of them you may get a better idea of how to sharpen by hand on a regular stone, I usually just use a stone and do it by hand if it just needs touched up but if its real dull then I will use the sharpener to get the angles right.
 
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