I just bought this patton saber

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thought I could interest Sam 1911 in putting some kewl scales on it and running a long sharp edge on it . Prolly too much to ask for his polish job. I want to dull black cerrokote the handle and blade and get a kydex discreet scabbard made that will attach to my motorcycle :evil:
 
I doubt any maker will sharpen it, but a local sharpening service might if you'll specify the angle.
 
You're serious? Really?
Not sure what books you're reading. I suggest other material.
 
Come on now ! Wouldn't you like to set the Road King on cruise at 50 mph and draw a Patton Saber on some deserted Hiway ? Some experiences are worth a lifetime.
 
My understanding is that particular model is a stabbing weapon, not a slashing weapon like the more typical curved sabers. I don't think it was designed to have the whole edge sharpened.
 
I think Gordon may have been viewing "Black Rain" lately.:uhoh:

BTW, General George Patton traditionally carried a Colt SAA .45 Long Colt and a Colt .45 ACP (1911).
 
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Gordon,
I meant the suggestion that swords shouldn't be sharpened.
Swords perhaps might be damaged if a razor edge was clanged against another razor edge, but not sharpening because it "might get stuck in bone"?! Please.
 
Actually he tended to carry his SAA a lot, but in WWII he had a left handed holster for the SAA and when so wearing it carried his S&W .357 ( only a few years old at the time and LONG before they got called Model 27) in forward areas on the "strong side". He did carry the SAA in a right handed holster for photo ops in the rear and to impress the locals.

He was also seen and photographed during WWII with a Colt 1903, a Remington, and a Colt snubbie of some sort when in rear areas.

I can't say I have ever seen a picture where he was wearing a 1911 of any style. He certainly used the SAA in Mexico before WWI when some of the Cavalry were already using 1911's and some claim the SAA went to France with him and was used in WWI combat there.

Someone on THR Non-firearms weapons posted links to Patton's manual of arms for the Saber. He did indeed stress the point, this being the trend in Europe ( where he was sent to study how other folks did it). The British and French were using fairly straight sabers at the time with emphasis on the point. Remember he was on Fencing team at West Point and Fenced as part of the Military pentathalon in the Olympics.

-kBob
 
"...that particular model is a stabbing weapon..." That isn't a weapon at all. It's for parades.
E-Bay is evil.
 
Patton designed it as a weapon and it was made as such. My father's shiny engraved 1902 officer's sword intended for the parade ground.
 
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Sunray,

That Saber was very much considered a weapon. The sheath by the way was not worn but lashed to the saddle. The sheath was a stiffened canvas affair. The Cavalry in Canada ( and through out the Empire ) at the time used something much like it.

WWI would see to it that most military sabers, and the horses they rode in on, were for parades and that had not happened yet when the "Patton Saber" was adopted.

-kBob
 
Gordon
anybody be interested in sharpening and rehandling with Micarta or G10 this Patton Saber
Click to expand...
The handle on the sword on ebay you linked too looks far to good to touch it or replace it!!

It should clean up nicely with some elbow grease, Tooth brush, and soap & water.
Follow with paste floor wax.

The metal, I would clean with 0000 Super-Fine steel wool & oil.
Follow with RIG, Past floor wax, or other rust preventive.

It shouldn't be molested beyond that.

It is not a blade that could be sharpened without changing the whole blade design geometry.

Cerokoteing it would be a sacrilege to the knife collector gods!!!!

PLEASE RECONSIDER!!

rc
 
I still have one of two that I had laying around here some place with a canvas scabbard that was painted with either gold or red paint, I removed that paint years ago and sold the other. I think that the metal guard was painted original with a semi gloss black paint with the blade polished bright. I may have an extra set of plastic grip panels, not sure. If ever down this way look me up n I'll see what I can find.
 
Well RC is pretty much right on this one. It only has a uniform brown patina on it with no pits. It has no grips or screws but wonder of wonders I found a like new pair in New York state screws and grips for a decent amount. So it is getting the 40 steel wool oil polish and maybe I well run my hand held belt sharpener over it with 300-600 grit for the last 1/8 " of blade edge and call it good. I make a pretty uniform edge on other things with that contraption.
 
" principles of its employment might be applicable to use from a motorcycle, but only at speeds under about 25 miles per hour."

LOL :)
 
$129 is a steal for that saber, regardless of condition.

Other than cleaning off any active rust, don't sharpen or polish it!

Your quest now should be to find the proper scabbard. I've seen a few on the loose.

These sabers sell at gun shows for $600 to $800, depending on condition.

BTW, this saber was designed to be attached to the horse's saddle. It was not carried by the trooper. In use, it was purely a thrusting weapon. Therefore, the edges were not sharpened. Only the point mattered.

Some of the scabbards had little projections on the end, so they could used as poles for pup tents. Others did not have the projections.
 
The sword responded to my standard 1 in 5 Naval Jelly to distilled water formula with a scotch Brite pad equivalent to 0000 steel wool. It left a dark uniform black/brown 95% patina with just the area inside the grip guard at the front while your hand would contact during a sweaty thrust practice still has a little rust scale I would have to chip or rotary brush to remove completely . The very last 1/2" of the tip has some scale still too.
In this wonderful age of the internet I found at S&S Firearms in NY State , a NEW OLD STOCK set of grips and two new ORIGINAL screws for right at $100 shipped. So now I am in this beautiful Patton Saber for $230 and since it doesn't fit on my Harley Road King (much too long ! A 19" Cutlass being about the longest practical ) I guess I will sell it in the local store in Monterey for $500 pretty quick less their 20 % = 400 my net with $170 profit and 2 hours my labor. I am trying to upload to photobucket with a little trouple right now, I took close ups.
 
There are cheaper to operate, more effective, more efficient machines available but this is by far the most incredible haymower I have ever heard of.

Now why can't I get Bugs Bunny singing "Kill the Wabbit" out of my head?
 
I could put a stout cushioned tip on the blade and I'll be darned if it would not make a very good cane hiking staff. I am gettin a bum right leg do to arthritus :( and may need a cane in a few years, I use hiking sticks to do any serious walking . The sword weighs 32 .0z almost exactly by holding the grip in a 90 degree hammer fist with my thumb on the thumbprint it certainly feels like a correct lenth cane for me. Wonder if with a soft tip it would be legal ? No I have not sharpened this very pointy weapon :)
 
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