i just got a gift from my uncle...

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SkaerE

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got a thompson center flintlock carbine!

im excited, havent shot one in probably 15 yrs though.

looks like its in great condition (he picked it up from an estate auction) also came with some lead ingots and a bullet mold.

so, what do i need to get started? what kinda powder? pyrodex? bullets? (w/out casting them for now) ;)

accuracy to expect from a flintlock w/a short barrel?

thanks!
 
When you say "get started" does that include casting your bullets from the lead using the mold that came with it? It it does you need a lead pot to melt the lead in. These come in all price ranges. From about fifty dollars to over two hundred. I have an RCBS that costs over two hundred and a Lee production pot that costs about fifty. I use the Lee the most. It's not as nice as the RCBS abut it's small and works fine. I recommend getting a thermometer for testing the temp of the lead as you melt it.

To shoot the thing you need some powder. FF for the charge and ffff for the priming pan. Some bullets and patch material. You can use powder like pryrodex or triple seven but if this is your first time I would recommend starting with Goex black powder. If you can't find it locally then use triple seven or pyrodex but it well worth the trouble to use black at lest once.

Get the manual that came with the rifle. You can probably down load it from Thompson Center. Don't go nuts over the powder charge. Keep it below the max. Remember accuracy is way more important then velocity. Animals don't care how fast a bullet misses them.

You might want to also get "Lyman Black Powder Handbook And Loading Manual." This is a good book with lots of information. There is more information in it then just your weapon but it will lay the ground work for further use. Here is a link to it on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Lyman-Powder-Handbook-Loading-Manual/dp/B000MNAWMQ/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1197263369&sr=8-7

Get the book, red it, and follow what has been said here and what is in the book and you are all set to make smoke and noise.

UPDATE:
After posting this I cruised around amazon and found a newer book for black powder. Here is a link:
http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Blackpowder-Handbook-Sam-Fadala/dp/0896893901/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1197263646&sr=1-1

I think I will order it after I post this.
 
Forget the word Pyrodex in the flint lock .... real black only ..it won`t shoot Pyrodex .
 
Get a powder horn or flask. Make the former if you've got the skill. Make yourself a possibles bag too to go with it. Make a powder measure and attach it to the strap of the possible bags. Get yourself (or make) a small patch knife to attach to the strap. Get a small 'hawk (tomahawk) so you can build a shelter in case you get caught out in the weather. Get yourself a couple of sticks to use as an improvised rifle rest. Now, get your wife/girlfriend to carry everything so you don't get tired in the field.
 
Some little things

20071119_pankruithoorntje.jpg

A pan primer.
It is not that you really need it, but it works great and I have learned to appriciate it. Push it once onto te pan and this device throws 3 grains of priming powder. Total capacity is 80 grain
For priming powder I use FFFG (from my pistols) and it works just fine. Specialty FFFFG powder is not necessary and if you really want to have it, grind-up some FFG or FFFG.

20071119_zundgatprikker.jpg

Touch hole pick.
You can clean the touch hole and the screwdriver on the other side will let you take the musket apart for cleaning. You can even hammer flint's back to working order with it if you're handier than I am.
Relatively easy to make one yourself.

20071119_vuurstenen.jpg

No ignition, no shooting. Make sure you have correct size spare flints with you. You'll kick yourself in the butt when you forget them. I know...

Not sure if pyrodex is a good idea in a flintlock. Have never tried it but it is said it is harder to ignite than Real Black.

Have fun!
Hildo
 
The first time(a long time ago) I shot a flinter I thought I could get away with pyrodex in the barrel and 4f bp in the pan. Everything was fine when I was shooting at paper and I couldn't wait for deer season. First day out I had a good shot at a fast running doe and led just right and pulled the trigger.Flash............................................BANG! I almost got tired of holding the barrel up waiting for the charge to go off. Well, I thought I'd bought a wall hanger until I read the small print in the owners manual that said that you can't use pyrodex in a flinter. I bought a pound of 2f and took it out back to try it and sure enough it fired as fast as any percussion gun I had. Adding a little 4f to the bottom of the pyrodex would probably work fine but why go to the bother. Just us BP and be done with it. You'r going to have to find a supplier for your 4f anyway and if they have 4f they'll have 2f
 
SkaerE, You didn't mention if you knew what twist the barrel is. Most flinters were made for patch and ball slow twist 1 twist in 48" but lately I've noticed that the manufacturers have built flinters with faster twists like 1 twist in 36" and 1 twist in 24". The 1 in 36" is a compromise and is said to shoot both patched ball and maxie balls. The fast twist,1 in 24", is meant for the maxie or saboted round. There is a way to find out what twist you have but we'll get into that only if you don't know.
 
Forget the word Pyrodex in the flint lock .... real black only ..it won`t shoot Pyrodex .

Not exactly true. Pyrodex is harder to ignite than black. dwave has it right regarding using 5 grs. to prime.

That being said, it's fun to shoot black, watch that big cloud of smoke dissipate, and see where your bullet hit. :D
 
Post number 1 for me here.

The very first thing you need to do with a TC flinter is see that it is empty. Use the ram rod as the guide. Run it down the bore and dig your thumb nail into it. Remove it, and align it next to the barrel. That marking you made should be at the muzzel, and show it has run to the point and perhaps past the vent.

If not the gun is either loaded or has crudlings living in the bore. If so investigate... If not move to

Step 2. Install a good sharp flint, in either thin lead or a piece of leather you make to assist holding that rock. If you go with leather, it is a good idea to use soft and suple leather, and slice a hole in it to pass the hammer less the screw and the top jaw, so then you can never loose the leather pads.

Step 3 make sure it sparks, as a great deal of TC guns don't spark well. If not get caseinite and someone who knows a little bit of heat treating. You simply must have a good spark.

Step 4 get who ever case hardened the lock to stick around, and with more heat set the cock to toss the sparks in the pan and not throw all of them to far forwards. You heat and bend the cock to do so, more or less bending it down.

Other wise do as most of these guys say, but ALWAYS use a powder measure, which you can make to toss a measured amount of powder with. Never load directly from the horn.

I would use black powder all the time. You can play with other's but bp works better than anything else.

You could have a .45 cal in which case FFFg is a better load to no more than 80 grains. You might have a .50 bore and then FFg is better suited and to no more than 110 grains.

Most of the time a far less charge is more accurate, and begins at apx 45 grains for a .45 and 50 grains for a .50.

All my flinters go off upside down, and there is no discernible difference from a cap lock.

Cleaning is easy. Pull the ram rod, pull the wedge, cock to half cock and pull the barrel. Use hot water and add a soap if you like. Brush it, mop it dry add what ever is your favorite oil.

Something I do and others do is make a gasket from a brown paper bag to place at the breech and as far forwards as the lock goes.. This is oiled with pure linseed oil and trimed to fit with the barrel in place, and that gasket stays in the stock. It helps prevent powder from getting in the lock mortice.
 
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