I made my first knife by stock reduction

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bikerdoc

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Apologies to all you real knifemaker for displaying my first effort with all its wart and imperfections. but it was fun!

Made from a piece of old file by stock reduction. Grinding and filing, then polishing by hand. Started Small on purpose, just to see if I could do it.

Thanks to HSO for telling me to stop early on and grind some wood to get the "feel" of it. After 2 dozen wooden knive I resumed grinding the knife and it was easier.

Why the paracord? Cause I can not master peening and ruined two pairs of great looking scales. Waiting for corby bolts to be delivered.

3 1/4 overall, 1 3/8 blade. I made a small sheath that clips to a belt loop.
Handy little knife, for small chores.

003-1.jpg

It slices paper, makes great curls and batons small stuff.

View attachment 431325
 
Looks like a neat lil' knife, Doc! May I ask how you heat treated it?

For rivets (yup, they're a pain sometimes), your very small scales are working against you.... Like driving spikes inline with the grain, it tends to split out.

I wonder if it may have helped to put a tiny countersink in the scale, for the rivet head to go into? I've had pretty good luck using copper or brass wire/rod to make rivets to affix spear hardware, but there's no risk of splitting there...

Congrats on #1!

J
 
Cause I can not master peening and ruined two pairs of great looking scales

Does that count the scales your grand daughter gave to the dog? :) Good looking first attempt. I have been mulling over the idea of trying to make my first.
 
Bikerdoc, that's the temper..... Did you do a hardening heat to red and quench first? If not, she's not likely hard....

J
 
See if the lil knife will hold an edge by using it a bunch before putting permanent scales on it..... If it does whatcha need, go with it! If it disappoints, we can get'er uhh, erm.... Stiffened up for ya... :)

J
 
Nope.... :)

IIRC, when you started out, you were working a still-hard file, and it cracked.... And this lil knife is the result of one of the remaining pieces, which you "annealed" by either heating red and allowing to cool, or simply by heating past blue temper colour (that's not really annealing, but tempering very soft)......

So, your knife should now be at what is "soft" for O1 steel, probably in the low to mid 50's Rc.....

The idea with hardening and tempering is basically this:

First the blade is heated to the transition temp.... This is usually a red heat, about the point where the steel is no longer attracted by a magnet. At this temperature, the structure converts to a different crystaline structure. Quenching the blade now in oil (the O in O1 means oil hardening) locks that new crystaline structure..... But also leaves the blade very, very, very hard and brittle, not unlike the file was to start with....

So, we go to the oven and temper it, which is heating to a relatively low heat. This allows some residual stresses to come out of the steel, and allows a partial change in the crystalline structure. We loose a bit of hardness, but gain LOTS of toughness....

However, even "soft", the O2 steel should be pretty danged hard. Better than a typical 420 stainless blade, I'd think... So use it and see if it needs to be harder... If it does, it's not such a big thing.

J
 
I get my knives done by Bos, but he does not do oil hardening steels. I do them myself as they are easy to do with a one or two brick forge and some propane or MAPP gas.
 
Since this started out as a file, and then annealed it a bit. Does it need a re temper. Should be plenty hard still.
 
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