I need a bit of advice for a S&W with my specifications

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kashton

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First things first: Thank you very much for your input, it is much appreciated.

Here are my needs:

(I've never concealed a weapon before so one of the issues here is how easily I can conceal it within my specs. I have a lot of experience with firearms. Just for more detailed info, I usually wear jeans with an untucked T-shirt because I live in TX and it gets pretty hot. I am 160 lbs, 5 ft 11 inches tall, with a muscular build. As far as my hand size, I own a G19 and it fits well)

1. I would prefer a .357 cal just for the power. I have never shot a .357 load, but I have done quite a bit of research and I won't settle for anything less than a GD, Ranger, or Federal HST 9mm round and from what I have read, a .38 is less powerful than a 9mm.

2. I need advice on SIZE of the revolver, as far as concealment goes. I would rather it not be a 1 & 7/8 stubbie, but if from your experience that is all that can be concealed, then that will do.

3. It must be durable. I would prefer Stainless Steel, and on top of that, heavier than 12 oz would be nice because I'm sure the .357 cal isn't easy on the hands. I cannot vouch for the scandium/titanium/aluminum models so if you can that will be helpful.

4. I like S&Ws.

Thanks a ton, and feel free to suggest other options out of my specs if you feel it will be a better option. I am always open-minded to new ideas.

Kevin

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So far, I've looked into these particular models: (SS = stainless steel, SA = Scandium alloy)

Model
(Model # / Barrel length / Sights / Weight / Frame material / Cylinder material)

Small (J) Frame Model M&P 360
(165074 / 1.87” / XS Tritium / 13.3 OZ / SA/SS)

Small (J) Frame Model 60
“Small-Chief’s Special” (162420 / 2.13” / Fixed / 22.5 OZ / SS/SS, 162434 / 3” / Red Dot Adj. / 24 OZ / SS/SS, 162430 / 3” / Adj. / 24 OZ / SS/SS)

Small (J) Frame Model 649
“Small-Bodyguard” (163210 / 2.13”/ Fixed / 23 OZ / SS/SS)

Medium (L) Frame Model 386 Sc/S
(163169 / 2.5” / Adj. White Outline / 21.2 OZ / SA/SS)

Model 586 L-Comp (170170)

Model 327 (170245 / Stubbie)

Model 629 (170279 / 3”)

Model 686 (164231 / 2.5”)

I got most of the models from this page:
http://www.smith-wesson.com/wcsstore/SmWesson/upload/other/Smith_Wesson_07_2.pdf
 
Ok, you like S&Ws, and your G19 is a nice fit. 2.5", 3", and 4" bbl medium frame (K/L) revolvers are like your G19; bigger than a tiny revolver (like a 642 or other J frame) / baby Glock, but still smaller than a large frame revolver / full size Glock.

In a Smith & Wesson .357 Magnum the stainless K-frame models 65 and 66 are highly sought after. The 3" K frames, whether blued or SS, .357 Mag or .38 Special only, are the carry revolver grail for many S&W fans. They aren't easy to find, but the 2.5" and 4" bbl guns will work just fine too.

The slightly larger L frames like the 686 are also great revolvers. Their direct competitor, the Ruger GP-100 shouldn't be overlooked either in the 4" and shorter bbl lengths either.

Going smaller the Model 60 with 3" bbl and extended grips is an excellent revolver, offering greater portability at the cost of lighter weight and one less round. Ruger's slightly larger SP-101, particularly with 3" bbl, splits the difference between the J & K frames very well for a nice belt gun.

Your preference for SS is well thought out in light of your climate. Scandium is neat, but it I've no desire to touch off .357 Mags in anything that light. Last, don't overlook the venerable .38 special - It only looks weak on paper.
 
As far as concealment goes, you mentioned the model 65 & 66. They are both 4" guns. Is that possible to conceal with my attire? Also, I can't seem to find any 3" K frames, just 4" and up.
 
Jeans and untucked T-shirt would be pretty easy to conceal a 4" K frame under. The 3" 65 or 66 was still listed recently under S&W's LE revolver section, but the link is broken and currently takes you to their pistols. The 3" Ks have always been a low production item, and usually not easy to find.

With that wardrobe a 4" or shorter L frame shouldn't be a problem either. One darker color, or two lighter color T shirts worn at the same time, either way one size larger help hide a CCW piece. A good belt and holster further aid in both concealment and comfort.
 
For size comparison: http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=171820&highlight=pocket+chart

As for the models listed:

I have a 60, meets the requirements, not really fun to shoot with full 357 loads.

Would be more fun with a laser sight so consider it.

The scandium versions have to be borderline punishing to shoot. I'd try before you buy.

If you like, they make an M&P with a built in laser - kinda cool: http://www.smith-wesson.com/webapp/...d=10001&productId=53913&langId=-1&isFirearm=Y

But pricey compared to a 60 and buying the same set of aftermarket grips.
 
I routinely carry a M65 3" while wearing jeans and a t-shirt(OWB pancake style holster on a good gun belt), I'm 185 lbs and 5'11". As stated above get a good, quality belt and holster, makes all the difference in the world, the holster/belt combo will pull the revolver up against you so your untucked shirt won't hang on it. There was a place in Texas, Buchanan Gun and Pawn I think, that had some good LE trade in 3" M64's and M65's recently, CDNN also has 3" K's now and then. The L frame is just a mite too heavy and big for me, but a lot of guys do carry 686's concealed. If you can try to handle and shoot some Smith K frames and the Rugers - see what feels best in your hands.
 
I have a 442 which is the darker sister to the 642 and a taurus 605 which is about the same as a m60 these are great carry guns I pocket carry the smith left front and carry 605 IWB 3:30 sometimes both in shorts and a t-shirt
 
You are mistaken about 38 Special being underpowered - may want to do some research, (start with the 642 Club thread). If after that you think a .357 Magnum is a "must have" pocket carrying a S&W M&P 340 is fairly simple, (try a Mika pocket holster). Buckle up for some serious recoil with full house .357 loads and be sure to train, train, train...It's a world away from a G19...BTW, I "settled" for a 38 Special 642CT. With Speer Gold Dot +P 135's on deck, it will take away any delusions that a 38 Special is "underpowered"... ;)

Good luck...
 
I just picked up a 3" Model 65-5 and love it. It seems to be a nice combination of all the attributes you mentioned. To top it off, I was about to get it for $275 out the door!!
 
Since you are into the S&W j-frame and want a .357 I would say Model 360, 340, 60 would fill your requirements. I choose to carry the 642/442. I also carry a Glock 26 & soon a Kimber Ultra Raptor II.
 
Thank you every for your input! I'm researching all of your suggestions right now.

Highland Ranger that size comparison chart is great!

A 3" K frame in a .357 with Stainless Steel would fit me pretty well, though I'm having a hard time imagining a way to conceal it...it isn't a small gun hehe
 
First of all, if you want to pocket carry a 357, the only options IMO are the airweight and airlite S&Ws. Sure, the Ruger SP101 and S&W Model 60 are pretty small, but they are a little on the heavy side for pocket carry for many folks. As others have said, firing 357s in ultra lightweight guns can be brutal. If you can't rent one first, try slamming your hand in a car hood 5 times - that should approximate the feel of a cylinder full of magnums from a 12 oz Smith. :p :eek: That is not from personal experience, that's just what I've heard others say.

IWB/OWB opens up a lot more possibilies, including heavier/more stable all steel guns.

For me, the absolute lightest I would care to go in a 357 Magnum would be a S&W Model 60 3". Will5A1 is on the money; a good gun belt and holster will make all the difference. Don't scrimp. With the right gear, carrying a S&W N Frame or full sized 1911 Government Model is entirely possible. In a 357 Magnum, my personal preference would be for either a S&W K Frame in a 2.5 or 3" barrel or a Ruger Service/Speed/Security Six in 2.75 or 3". A nice in-between size with my pocket carry S&W 642 at one end of the spectrum, and my 686 and soon to acquire 1911 on the big end (I only carry the 642 right now).

As for 38 Special, it looks weak on paper, but with the right ammo it is an excellent SD round. Over time, the foot-lbs of energy a particular cartridge has mattered less and less to me. It only serves as a rough yard stick to judge my two primary considerations in a SD round, which can be summed up as “The Two Ps”: Placement and Penetration. So although a 22LR for example beats nothing, I prefer to carry something with a little more penetrating power. For that, most medium and large bore pistol rounds will do the job if you put it in the right spot (God forbid any of us ever have to, of course). For 38 special, the +P FBI load (158 grain Lead Semi Wadcutter Hollowpoint) is a tried-and-true load with an excellent fight-stopping reputation built over 30 years. Corbon’s 110 grain DPX +P is another great 38 load. And some of the new Buffalo Bore rounds are truly impressive. If you can handle the recoil, their +P version of the FBI load can push a 158 grain bullet to 1,040 fps from a 2” barrel!

Since my shot placement with small, light 357s is poor, I stuck to the 38 +P rated S&W 642. It is light, highly concealable, dead reliable, and capable of good accuracy at SD distances. Don’t count the ‘ole 38 out just yet!
 
My "Always" gun is an S&W 340SC, which I pocket carry in an Uncle Mike's (!) holster. It's wearing a set of Crimson Trace lasergrips which include rubber cushioning over the backstrap that protects the web of your hand from some of the rather snappy recoil when the revolver is fired with full .357 loads. (My "usual" load is the Winchester 145 grain Silvertip hollowpoint.)

I gave the action a light "tune" myself, based on the Jerry Miculek DVD.

The only thing about these little revolvers is that SOME ammo will not stand up to the recoil - fire a couple of rounds, and the bullets may jump the crimp on the unfired rounds, potentially tying up the gun.

One advantage of going with a .357 . . . if you DO decide to stick to .38s, even .38 +Ps, the extra strength of a .357 ought to make it last almost forever.
 
I "settled" for a 38 Special 642CT. With Speer Gold Dot +P 135's on deck, it will take away any delusions that a 38 Special is "underpowered"...
:D No biases here, that's for sure. :D
When Mass Mark, jt and jad get finished with you, you will be "converted" resistance is futile, I see a 642/Mika combo in your future.
Unless Nematocyst gets a hold of you and converts you to a 65.

Good luck on you quest. It's fun.
 
I know you said Smith, but...

For a new, good quality revolver that meets all your criteria, the Ruger GP-100 3" Fixed sight stainless is the cat's meow. I have one and it fits in K-frame leather, shoots to point of aim, and has a compact grip that still gives you excellent recoil control. It's tough like an L-frame, but small and easy to carry like a K-frame.
You should be able to find a 3" K-frame for sale here: www.smith-wessonforum.com
Steve
 
Why not the G19?

The 3" M64 or M65 S&W would work well but will be heavy.

If you can, find a pre-lock gun.

Nothing wrong with a good .38 Special.
 
The Ruger SP 101 is built like a tank, and is the only real "snubbie" I feel comfortable shooting full-house .357s. I like the 3" barrel format.

My position is, if you carry a handgun -- especially a snubbie -- you need to practice a lot. A gun and cartridge combo that induces flinching or other bad habits -- or which makes practice so unpleasant that you avoid it -- is a non-starter to me.

Yes, the SP 101 is a bit heavy for pocket carry -- but in the end, guns are for shooting. The Ruger shoots well with full-house loads and is small enough to conceal easily. To me, that's a good tradeoff.
 
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