I should have done this years ago

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doubleh

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First, a little background. I've been reloading since the seventies. I've never had need to load a lot of ammo . Not a competitor or see how fast I can shoot so I've never had the need for high volumn reloading. I've just used a single stage RCBS press all these years and and been happy with it.

I did cut the bicycle handle bar grip off the lever and replace it with one made from 1 1/8" oak dowel and make a clear plastic primer deflector and that's it until last Sunday afternoon. I have been reloading quite a bit of 9mm and recently added 380 acp and decided I was wasting a lot of motion with that long operating handle and it was making my old, worn out, shoulder hurt. I found a length of 5/8" rod in my metal supply and proceeded to cut a piece two thirds as long as the original lever. I turned one end down and threaded it to match the original and even found the rest of the dowel I had used to make the earlier replacement grip to make a grip for it. I used it yesterday afternoon and it made a big difference in the length of time it took to expand a bunch of 380 brass and my shoulder wasn't nearly as tired and achy as usual. Thumbs up to me.
 
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Very good idea. You don't need the extra leverage provided by the full-length handle to work with 9mm or 380, so shortening it means less motion and a faster stroke. Obvious once you think about it. But the point is that I didn't think of it and you did. Congratulations.
 
I was just thinking the same thing for my Redding T7. I deprimed then sized 3k 9mm and man was my arm tired! I thought if they made a 1/2 size arm it would be half the work to actuate the ram.

Since the Redding arm attaches with a nut it would be an easy swap.
 
Shorter with offset for hand clearance. Is parallel with floor at full stroke. The brass kicker idea is from somebody on this site. Who it was I don't know, but it is a time saver. Double thanks to who ever it is. NCM_0350.JPG NCM_0351.JPG
 
You could also make a stop to reduce ram downward travel when reloading short cartridges.
 
I did the same with my Co-Ax. Used a stainless steel rod about 4 inches long and mounted a pool ball for the handle. The shorter handle works with about anything I reload. Couldn't see why you couldn't apply that to almost any press made.
 
Want to REALLY save time and unnecessary movements? Buy a dillon 550.

I DO enjoy loading, have been at it for over 50 years now. But I also like to shoot, spend time with my wife, hike, fish, run the dog, etc. A progressive saves SO MUCH TIME.
Life is short...spending hours on a single stage when an hour will do the same on a 550...I simply don't get it.

Then again...each to his own.
 
Want to REALLY save time and unnecessary movements? Buy a dillon 550.

I DO enjoy loading, have been at it for over 50 years now. But I also like to shoot, spend time with my wife, hike, fish, run the dog, etc. A progressive saves SO MUCH TIME.
Life is short...spending hours on a single stage when an hour will do the same on a 550...I simply don't get it.

Then again...each to his own.
You're right. You don't get it.
For me, loading is an exercise in relaxation. It's the zen of the thing...:cool:
 
Shorter with offset for hand clearance. Is parallel with floor at full stroke. The brass kicker idea is from somebody on this site. Who it was I don't know, but it is a time saver. Double thanks to who ever it is.View attachment 777351View attachment 777352
I'm not handy with fabricating things, so I tend to buy them...usually from Inline Fabrication.

Among other things for my Lee Classic Cast, I have the:

Ergo Handle
IMG_3036_320442dd-bc89-4d80-8ab6-6aa9a37da3ad_1024x1024.jpg

Case Ejector System
parts_1024x1024.jpg

Looks something like this:

pmb_IMG_3073_1024x1024.jpg
 
For my old RS2 press, I cut the bicycle grip off and threaded the end then drilled and tapped an "8" ball. Much easier to use now. Cutting a shorter handle might have been next for it but for pistols I now just use my new Lee Classic Turret press.
 
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