I think I may be sick

[Stinger]

My new Ruger Blackhawk 45 Colt has a gash in the barrel.

I got a bullet stuck in the barrel last weekend (no powder - tied up the cyllinder.) A friend of mine helped me knock out the bullet with a cleaning rod. The bullet was knocked back into the case without incident, or so I thought.

A couple of days ago, I finally got around to cleaning the barrel. I noticed a lot of lead built up around the forcing cone, so I let it soak overnight. Yesterday, I began to get serious about the lead, and started using a lead-away cloth.

The lead began cleaning up nicely, but there was one spot that just wasn't coming out, no matter how much soaking, scrubbing, or cussing that I did. Then it dawned on me...the cleaning rod must have been scraped against the barrel when my friend whacked it out.

I will try to get a picture but it is in a difficult place to see. What are my options here? I'm guessing my only choice will be to send it back to Ruger, and have them install a new barrel :banghead:. I am going to shoot a few rounds as soon as I get the chance. My main concern is that the gash will collect lead like nobody's business, but if it doesn't, then I probably won't worry about it.

 

[joneb]

Was it a steel rod ? Could it be a cracked forcing cone ?

 

[Jim March]

Oh man. Yeah, that's why you use a wooden dowel rod for these situations. Or some type of plastic. Worst case: use a copper tube that "centers" on the bullet nose (if the profile is roundnose or close to it) or if a hollowpoint, drop something right down the hollow. Anything to prevent metal contacting barrel.

Jeez...I'd be willing to bet this is going to hose accuracy.

*Maybe* you could fire-lap it but...dang. Doubtful.

Having Ruger repair it will be the cheapest option. If you're interested in better sights at the same time, having a gunsmith like Jack Huntington re-barrel it and do something different at the front sight might be seen as an opportunity.

 

[Old Fuff]

Always use a hardwood dowel that will just slip down the bore to knock out obstructions - Brownells have them (www.brownells.com).

So now I tell you...

Anyway, I doubt that the gash is that bad, but clean the barrel completely so that you can see it. You mentioned lead bullets, but are these soft lead (factory loads) or hard cast (handloads)? Soft lead bullets often lead the barrel until it gets broken in a bit. "Firelapping" (Bullets with a fine lapping compound fired through the bore) can help. Don't be too quick to rebarrel the gun.

 

[Stinger]

The pics are a "no-go." I can't quite angle the camera to take a good picture.

I checked the Ruger website, and it seems a barrel can be had for around $33 or so. Plus shipping, plus service charge. This could get expensive. Jim, who is this Jack Huntington? I'll run a search, but any info would be appreciated.

I was trying to get the bullet out with a wooden dowel, but wasn't having any luck. He decided to help. Doh! This is all my fault. I'm not blaming him, he was trying to help me out. Matter of fact, I won't even mention it to him, he didn't mean any harm, and I knew better.

Thanks,

Stinger

Edited to add...the gash mark is not in the forcing cone, but a little further down the barrel.

 

[SigfanUSAF]

If it makes you feel better...........

Which this should......
The REAL reason I rebuilt my Century CETME:
I started a conversion into an HK-51 look alike.....
The barrel was right at 16" with only a plain muzzle.....
All fabrication was complete, just had to add a flash hider......

The barrel/reciever assy was too big for our lathe.
So I stand the reciever upright in the 10 ton press at my shop. I turned the ID of the flash Hider to within a .0005" interference fit with the end of the barrel. Everything was lined up, so I start down with some pressure. She goes down, 1/8, 1/4, so I go for it.
Not sure where I stopped paying attention, but when I was finished, I had a flash hider pressed 1/4" on the barrel, and a SEVERELY deformed century reciever!!!
NOW THAT WAS ROUGH!!!!!!!!!!:banghead:

 

[Jim March]

Jack Huntington is an "up and coming" gunsmith doing a lot of Ruger SA work. He's not as pricey as Bowen, Reeder, Linebaugh and the like but he has a good rep and at least last I heard, not too crazy a backlog.

http://www.jrhgunmaker.com/

Clements is good:

http://www.clementscustomguns.com/

And there's Jim Stroh and company at Alpha Precision:

http://alphaprecisioninc.com/

These three are well known for doing more "working guns" than "ultra fancy collector's pieces". Of course, I'd say the same about Linebaugh but he's got a big enough name now that he's busy and pricey .

 

[Snowdog]

Though probably not proper, at least you used a cleaning rod. A buddy of mine used a flathead screwdriver and a hammer to pound a stuck squib load from the barrel of his Llama. It's not hard to imagine the resulting carnage when a hardened steel tool is crammed/pounded into a soft Spanish steel barrel.

Ugly yes, but the damaged barrel still worked sans any ill effect. However, I'm under the impression accuracy wasn't among its attributes to begin with.

I hope your Ruger doesn't suffer significant degradation of accuracy or velocity.

 

[Confederate]

I also urge you not to panic before you've tried shooting some rounds through it. I'd try to polish the area a bit so it doesn't collect lead, but it may have little if any effect on accuracy. I've seen things like that that have little effect, but you have to try it.

A new factory barrel shouldn't ruin you, though. Just ask for the old one back.

Good luck and let us know.

 

[jhawk92]

Old Fuff-
Interesting idea on the dowels. I was searching Brownells for them, but haven't had any luck. Can you point me in the right direction? Probably a good thing to have on hand in case of emergencies. Thanks.

 

[Nortonics]

Interesting idea on the dowels. I was searching Brownells for them, but haven't had any luck. Can you point me in the right direction?

Errrm... How's about right around the corner from your own house?

May not be "hard-wood" in a strict sense, but certainly hard enough to pop out a squib. Most any diameter you'd be looking for at $2 each.

 

[Hutch]

Just wanted to comment about:

This is all my fault. I'm not blaming him, he was trying to help me out. Matter of fact, I won't even mention it to him, he didn't mean any harm, and I knew better.

Sir, you are a gracious gentlman, and a credit to your upbringing.

 

[PinnedAndRecessed]

The only time this has ever happened to me was with a short barrelled
(3 1/2) S&W 357.

I used a standard cleaning rod with a plastic jagged tip. Being as how the plastic (of the tip) is softer than the barrel, I got the stuck bullet out with no (discernable) damage.

 

[BigO01]

Why not try shooting some moly coated bullets down her and see if that big scratch can be polished out by shooting it before you look into a new barrel ?

 

[Harley Quinn]

Shoot it and see

I would not concern myself if I were you.

Go to the range and see if it has any affect. The shooting of lead in the 357 and the build up???
Are you shooting over 1000fps If you are going to shoot lead don't go to the higher extremes.

It sounds like you need to be more aware while reloading.
What are you using for powder? One of the reason's I like 2400 it is observable, very easy. Look! in the case, and no double loads can occur.

Who uses steel cleaning rods anymore??? Aluminum won't hurt your barrel.
Wood dowels are good but I have broken a few. I like the brass ones, at the welder supply in my area, is where I get them.

HQ

 

[Stinger]

Are you shooting over 1000fps If you are going to shoot lead don't go to the higher extremes.

This is a 45 Colt, and yes, I will be shooting lead over 1000fps. This revolver was purchased as a mountain (which we have so many of in West Texas) carry gun, for protection against bears and mean kitties.

It sounds like you need to be more aware while reloading.

No argument here. I was loading a variety of loads, using Unique. I most certainly took that round out of circulation to weigh the powder, and then proceeded to put a bullet on top of it.

All of the other rounds shot just fine, no doubles (which concerns me most.)

I don't know anybody who reloads who hasn't stuck a bullet at some point. But definitely, paying attention to one's handy work, or lack thereof, is a valid point.

 

[Detritus]

Who uses steel cleaning rods anymore??? Aluminum won't hurt your barrel.

until it oxidizes, coating the rod in aluminium oxide (you know that whitish discoloration ALL alumninum rods get after even a few months)... anyone care to go read what the grit on automoative sandpaper is? plus aluminum is soft enough to pick up for lack of a better word "junk" and have it stick.

i've used em all, caoted steel, stainless, brass, aluminum, carbon fiber (borrowed), and even a wooden shotgun rod, and have to admit that, except a really cheap sectional that bent when i tried to use a tight fitting brush, i've never seen ill from any of them. but you'll never see me willingly use an aluminum rod, or any type of sectional (excepting the wood and brass shotgun set mentioned, but it's alot harder to "drag the rod" in a shotgun) ever again.

 

[Stinger]

Update

I took the ol' Blackhawk out for a spin last night at the range.

Accuracy was good (for me,) I don't know if an excellent gunslinger would have approved or not. But for my skills, it is up to the task.

Leading was normal for this gun. But what the heck?!? This gun leads worse than any other I have. Using Oregon Trail bullets, and low end 'Ruger Only' load, this thing leaded up the forcing cone at about 50 rounds. It wasn't enough lead to cause any problems, but much more than my other handguns.

The "gash" was a little further down the barrel, and it appeared normal.

Stinger

 

[Confederate]

You can always polish the barrel. If nothing else, a cloth patch with some Semichrome should produce a noticable difference. Just make sure the cloth is a little thicker to increase the pressure. Using a brush size one size up from your caliber also helps get the lead and other gunk out.