Riomouse911
Member
And I learned a LOT about the 1911 that I didn't know before. I took a Ruger SR1911 .45, a SA Ronin 9mm and a Kimber Ultra Carry II 9mm and broke them all down throughout the day. I am a very experienced shooter but not in any way, shape or form a gunsmith, so I went into this course with eyes and ears wide open.,
The instructor was Bob Chavez, who is a long-time gunsmithing instructor at Lassen Community College in Susanville, Ca. He has taught other courses I’ve been through, if you can take a course from him its worth it.
I learned that the Series 80/Swartz type firing pin blocks on 1911’s like the Ultra Carry II just about need three hands to depress the firing pin block plunger, and simultaneously fully press in the firing pin, in order to slide off or install the firing pin stop (backplate). Its a bit of a PITA when the part isn’t cooperating.
I learned the extractors on the 9mm Ronin and Ultra Carry II really are a tight fit in the slide. I guess since the extractor hook has to reach farther over to engage the extractor groove in the smaller 9mm case, it is either bowed a bit more and/or the added size of the extractor hook drags on the interior channel. Whatever the reason, this added friction really made getting these extractors in or out a bit of a chore.
I learned that it does take some real finesse to get the sear and the disconnector to drop into the SR 1911 without twisting or falling out of place. This took me 10 minutes to figure out (The Ronin was a snap.)
I learned all of the function checks for the grip safety and thumb safety, including how the gun can fire with the grip safety depressed and trigger held “against the wall” of the first stage. This partial trigger press holds the grip safety in place, so even if the grip safety is released and the trigger is fully depressed; Bang! I was unaware of this; that trigger has to be released for the grip safety to reset and prevent firing. (If the grip safety doesn't reset, you have an issue.) I always thought once the grip safety was released it was then inoperable.
As for the STI Staccato 2011, man those require a few different steps to take fully down. Popping out the grip screws and bushings is a new one for me, as you have to do this to separate the lower grip-frame away from the upper frame to fully disassemble. (The rest is pretty much 1911)
I have done some you-tube assisted stuff with my 1911’s before, including dropping in a Cylinder and Slide kit on the SR 1911 to improve the trigger, but never a complete breakdown, examination and function check like these. If you ever get a chance to take a course like this one try to go. Just learning the safety checks from start to finish is invaluable, but the confidence you get to go over your guns and give them a proper look over is the best. Thanks Bob!
Stay safe.
The instructor was Bob Chavez, who is a long-time gunsmithing instructor at Lassen Community College in Susanville, Ca. He has taught other courses I’ve been through, if you can take a course from him its worth it.
I learned that the Series 80/Swartz type firing pin blocks on 1911’s like the Ultra Carry II just about need three hands to depress the firing pin block plunger, and simultaneously fully press in the firing pin, in order to slide off or install the firing pin stop (backplate). Its a bit of a PITA when the part isn’t cooperating.
I learned the extractors on the 9mm Ronin and Ultra Carry II really are a tight fit in the slide. I guess since the extractor hook has to reach farther over to engage the extractor groove in the smaller 9mm case, it is either bowed a bit more and/or the added size of the extractor hook drags on the interior channel. Whatever the reason, this added friction really made getting these extractors in or out a bit of a chore.
I learned that it does take some real finesse to get the sear and the disconnector to drop into the SR 1911 without twisting or falling out of place. This took me 10 minutes to figure out (The Ronin was a snap.)
I learned all of the function checks for the grip safety and thumb safety, including how the gun can fire with the grip safety depressed and trigger held “against the wall” of the first stage. This partial trigger press holds the grip safety in place, so even if the grip safety is released and the trigger is fully depressed; Bang! I was unaware of this; that trigger has to be released for the grip safety to reset and prevent firing. (If the grip safety doesn't reset, you have an issue.) I always thought once the grip safety was released it was then inoperable.
As for the STI Staccato 2011, man those require a few different steps to take fully down. Popping out the grip screws and bushings is a new one for me, as you have to do this to separate the lower grip-frame away from the upper frame to fully disassemble. (The rest is pretty much 1911)
I have done some you-tube assisted stuff with my 1911’s before, including dropping in a Cylinder and Slide kit on the SR 1911 to improve the trigger, but never a complete breakdown, examination and function check like these. If you ever get a chance to take a course like this one try to go. Just learning the safety checks from start to finish is invaluable, but the confidence you get to go over your guns and give them a proper look over is the best. Thanks Bob!
Stay safe.
