Identifying a Smith and Wesson pre-model 36...

[TNcopspawn]

This smith has seen better days, and a good deal of action. It was carried either by my granddad, or great granddad (his father-in-law). Planning to give it a good cleaning, but I would like to find a schematic first. For this I need to identify the model.

Recurring model no. is 612022. No other markings other than 'Smith & Wesson 38 S&W SPC CTG' at the end of the barrel.

Mag. Capacity: 6 rds.

Caliber: 38 special

For everything else, posted a pic. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Don't want to sound corny, but it protected my blood, so I'd like to give it the care and attention that it deserves.

 

[TNcopspawn]

And mea culpa for the lousy pic. Had to use my webcam. Never gets the levels right.

 

[TNcopspawn]

Also found a 5-digit number on the inside of the frame beneath the ejector. 24756. Sorry about that.

 

[Sport45]

The model 36 is a 5-shot J-frame. Sure that isn't a K-frame round butt S&W, a pre-Model 10?

 

[TNcopspawn]

Not sure. All I can be sure of is the inability of the S&W website to identify it based on structural characteristics or identifying no. sequences. This is really my last try before I give it a quick brush and oil and shelf it.

 

[Jim Watson]

As best I can tell from Flayderman's book, the illustrated revolver is a .38 Hand Ejector, Military & Police, Model of 1905, Fourth Change; what the Digital Generation calls a "pre-model 10."
They made a whale of a lot of these from 1915 until 1942 and I don't have the references to tie it down much closer. This is from late in the period with a high serial number, short barrel, and Magna grips, though. In 1939 it would have cost $32.50 plus $2.50 for the Magna grips. If you know what Grandpa was earning in 1939 you will understand why they were selling so many Iver Johnsons for half the price or less.

It appears to have been aftermarket nickel plated, S&W does not plate the hammer and trigger.

 

[TNcopspawn]

In 1939 he was 13, so probably great-grandfather's. The more expensive gun makes sense, though; by 1946 he was in charge of THP (and later TBI). This also explains the after-market plating. Wanted a little Depression-Era bling, I guess.

Thanks for the help. I hate to ask anything more, but as long as I have someone's attention: Do you foresee any difficulties in dismantling it for cleaning? From where I'm sitting, it looks like I'm not going to be able to find a schematic, and between you, me, and the whole damned internet, I'm more of an auto-loader kind of guy.

 

[Jim Watson]

Post 7 at
http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/94072-faqs.html
outlines dismantling a S&W revolver. Yours is older and has some differences, though.

Me?
I would back out the strain screw part way (lower front of the grip frame) to reduce mainspring tension, then take off the sideplate - remove four screws then rap the frame with soft mallet or screwdriver handle until the sideplate shakes loose, DO NOT PRY AT IT - then slide the cylinder and crane forward - it was held on by the front sideplate screw. KEEP THE SCREWS STRAIGHT, THEY ARE FITTED TO THEIR INDIVIDUAL HOLES. I would not take it any farther apart. Just flush it out with Gun Scrubber or such and drip in a little oil.


Fuff's approach to cleaning is undoubtedly safer.
The first time I got the rebound slide out of one, I expanded my vocabulary considerably before I got it back in.

 

[Old Fuff]

The .38 Military & Police/1905 Hand Ejector (which you have) became the S&W Model 10. For purposes of disassembly there isn't any difference of consequence between the two. You can obtain a manual for the Model 10 from Smith & Wesson (www.Smith-Wesson.com) in .pdf format for free. It includes an exploded view drawing.

You will also find an exploded view drawing at: www.e-gunparts.com

Be aware that disassembly requires correct screwdrivers, and that things (such as removing the side plate) must be done a certain way or you can ruin it. If you don't know the correct procedure I strongly suggest that you don't try to disassemble Great-Grandpa's revolver! Unlike most pistols made today, the internals of pre-war S&W revolvers are made like a fine Swiss watch.

In a general sense you can learn more by going to this forum's Revolver sub-forum that has an illustrated guide on disassembling a current production Model 10.

Rather then take a chance I propose that you remove the stocks and cylinder assembly (to remove the cylinder assembly back out the screw at the front of the side plate on the revolver's right side, and then after swinging it out push the cylinder forward and off). Then soak the frame and cylinder assemblies in a meatloaf pan using a solvent/oil such as Marvel Mystery Oil - obtainable at automobile accessory stores. When done, blow out the excess solvent with a high-pressure air hose and wipe off the exterior, chambers and bore. Doing it this way won't get you into any trouble.

 

[Sport45]

And if you use a disposable aluminum loaf pan from Wal-Mart you won't get in trouble with the missus either.

And just because they're disposable doesn't mean you have to throw them away. They're pretty good to hang onto for the next part that needs soaking...

If you want to soak it in a good, cheap, homemade solvent try this. Pour 3/4 inch automatic transmission fluid (Mercon II, III, or IV) in the pan. Then take it to 2-1/4 inches with kerosene or mineral spirits. Finish by bringing it to 3" with acetone (look in paint section of W-M or cosmetics as fingernail polish remover). Stir it a bit to mix. That'll serve as Ed's Red and will leave enough residual ATF to keep your gun lubed and protected after you shake and blow out the excess.

 

[TNcopspawn]

Thanks for the advice, guys. I didn't really know what I had there. There's a retired cop who works as a gunsmith in Nashville. I'll have him do the work on it. I think I can trust him. My granddad taught him to shoot!

 

[Jim K]

That is a Military & Police Model 1905, Fourth Change, with a 2" barrel, nickel plated. That combination was a favorite with detectives who carried guns in shoulder holsters under sweaty armpits. Those guns were the S&W equivalent of the Colt Detective Special, though the Colt was a bit slimmer. S&W made a smaller .38 revolver called the Terrier, but it was in .38 S&W (not .38 Special) and was only five shots, so detectives who liked S&W's went with the M&P two inch.

That gun was made in the mid-1920's but to come any closer to the date of manufacture, you would have to request a letter from S&W.

In the cleaning process do NOT use any product, like Hoppes #9 that has any ammonia in it. Ammonia can strip the nickel from those guns.

Jim