If You Had $200 and a Ruger 10/22 carbine What mods would you make

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your talking about spending 450-500 on this ruger and moding it, for that amount of money I got a sig 522 and I love it, I don't know what kind of mods you had in mind but if your looking for a good 22 for training/plinking this is it.

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Here's the gun
http://http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/57647-55.html
here are iron sights for it
http://www.sigsauer.com/SigStore/522-sight-set-397.aspx
here is a review on it
http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3ilpMzqDq4

What quality of red dot do you want?

Konus sight pro - $75
vortex strikefire - $150
vortex sparc - $200
used aimpoint comp m2 - $350
eotech 512 - $400
eotech 516 - $500
new aimpoint comp m2 - $525

personally I like the used aimpoint you get a good optic at a good price, look at gunshows and pawn shops and you'll find good deals on high quality optics
 
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I would do some serious research at rimfirecental.com before I spent one cent.
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Good move, nice folks with good idea's over there.

For that amount I got:

TSR-100 Tech sights
M1 carbine stock
M1 sling (works well for sling shooting)
Extended magazine release

Plus a little extra for sand paper and file to do my own trigger work to reduce the pull, remove the grittyness, and improve reliability (by polishing the hammer face).
 
No frills yet

Wally ~ That bullpup setup is beautiful. I eventually want to get that.

I love my (2nd) 10/22. My $200 got me a cheapo scope, extended mag release, and a LOT of ammo. I find I'm still better with the iron sites tho. :) Im just waitin on the sun to come back up now.
 
I would suggest putting the new barrel on the back burner. Don't be one of the countless minions who bought into the heavy barrel 10/22 craze with no real plan for how they would actually use the rifle. I would also caution against cheap barrels ($100 or less). IMHO, these are responsible for the misconception 'some folks' have that modified Rugers shoot only "just as good" as cheaper rifles.

Like I said in the other thread:

"I would suggest holding off on the heavy barrel. Heavy barrels are, well, heavy. IMHO, way too much weight for any practical purpose. I would suggest the 10/22, the Volquartsen target hammer and a set of Tech Sights. Then shoot the snot out of it and attend an Appleseed event. All of which will provide a wonderful foundation.

For future reference, you can get all the accuracy you need out of a Clark or Shilen mid-weight barrel but it will still be light enough to carry afield. Bull barrels are for bench queens."

I would also suggest forgetting about the $200 drop in triggers. Spend $40 on a Volquartsen target hammer which will yield you a 2-3lb pull. The $200 triggers have no advantage over a stock housing with the $100 Power Custom kit installed. Another option would be sending your trigger housing to Clark for their "expensive" trigger job, all of $75. Save your money and get a $300 KIDD trigger if you want the best. But that should wait until you have a $200-$300 barrel. Remember, you don't have to do it all at once. Don't be misled, you're not "fixing" the rifle as some suggest, you're making it better.


I would do some serious research at rimfirecental.com before I spent one cent.
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Excellent advice.
 
I probably wouldn't spend the money on a bull barrel. They look awesome buuuuut they're more for comensating for heavier recoils.....which is something nonexistant with a 22lr. As for me I like walkin the country and plinkin for rabbits gopher and the occasional yote.... so I would go with an extended mag, a sling and a 100-150 yard scope. Just depends on what you use it for though.
 
There are a couple of guy's that advertise on Rimfire Central to modify the bolt for headspace, radius, and pin the firing pin. Also they rework the factory barrel. Get the trigger pull down using one of the aforementioned setups, pillar bed the action with a pressure point, and bed the rear of the action. Polish the guide rod and the inside of the reciever. All of this can be done for under $200, and you can have a very accurate .22 that looks exactly like the rest of them. Check out their 10-22 section.
 
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That's the catch, heat dissipation is not really an issue with the .22LR. Centerfires yes, but I've never seen a .22LR get hot enough for accuracy to degrade. I've stood in one place with several 25rd and 50rd magazines and burned a 550rd bulk pack of ammo as quickly as I could and never detected any difference. Besides, when you're shooting that fast, are you really 'that' concerned with accuracy?

Good barrels are expensive and cheap barrels aren't worth fooling with. I'd strongly suggest doing a LOT of shooting before changing anything other than the trigger/bolt release/mag release and sights/optics.
 
I have 2 and did them pretty much the same way... I got the Volquartsen target hammer and auto bolt release combo pack (they come on sale on Midway every so often for $35 or so). That fixes the trigger issue. It makes the trigger light but not too light... probably somewhere in the 2-3 lbs. range, which I consider perfect for field use. However, I used my factory trigger reset spring because the one that came with the kit doesn't give it a very positive reset... I like a nice, crisp, audible sear reset.

I would also drill the stock front and back for sling studs and put some Uncle Mike's 1.25" QD swivels on it (don't use one of those barrel bands with the swivel on it, because it puts pressure on the barrel).

If you are using it for shooting groups at the range, I might put a bipod on the front stud. If you intend to use it in field positions, I would put a good shooting sling on it -- 1907 leather sling, M1/M14 issue GI web sling, ching sling... whatever floats your boat, as long as you can loop up and use it as a shooting support. I actually have a sling I designed myself that I like to use.

Then, to top it off, I would put some Tech Sights on it -- TSR-100 model. Or if you have bad eyesight, maybe a good low-power scope mounted on the factory picatinny mount with some low rings. I'd want something that can at least be turned down to 4x.
 
Do this.

http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122386&highlight=cletus+hungwell

Buy the adjustable sear (in the thumbnail). This will adjust all the pretravel from tigger.

Polish the trigger group parts.

You can easily achieve a 2# trigger pull.

The Ruger factory barrel is a good barrel; however, Ruger chambered it loose and did not crown it properly. A bunch has the barrel rechambered for a "match" type chamber (very snug) and crowned. Less than a hundred dollars.

"Pin" the rear of the stock. Pin goes all the way through the stock and uses the rear hole in the trigger group. Fairly solid bed, front and rear.

Trigger job -sweat
Barrel $100.00
Adj sear 35.00
Pin kit 30.00

You will benefit more from this than a few hundred dollars for a "drop-in" trigger.
 

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And benchrest shooters like to cut their barrels so that the bullet exits at a specific point in its rotation. They swab their barrels every certain number of rounds. They shoot 20lb .22LR's. They go through batches of barrels to find the best one. They buy ammo by the pallet. They're looking not for tenths or hundredths but thousandths of an inch. Who cares? We're talking about 10/22's and a two hundred dollar budget.

Do we really need to get into benchrest level details in a thread like this???
 
for target shooting: a lightened trigger job and a bull barrel. my BIL has one with that config and it is an absolute tack-driver.

hunting: trigger job just not as light as the target version above, and a bull barrel of carbine length

plinking: i might get some tech sights for it.
 
I bought a 10/22 because I thought I was missing something by not having one. My Marlin was more accurate, and was flawless with any ammo. The 10/22 was picky with ammo, and didn't live up to the reputation in my opinion.
 
I have one right now, I am looking to add fiber optic sights and maybe improve the trigger, if not replace the whole group. (This is my main training rifle for the kids.) If I had another, I would go all out with a varmint barrel, a Volquartzen trigger group, and a custom stock. If I had a third, I would go tactical silly with a Tapco stock, etc.
 
What company would you suggest for a red dot or scope
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If you are going to build it for accuracy I'd go with a scope and not a red dot. They aren't precise enough for the single hole you'll be punching. Red Dot = speed, scope = precision
The 22 won't recoil enough to hurt any scope so find one in the price range you are comfortable with and it should be fine. Read reviews though, you want clear optics and repeatable adjustments for windage & elevation, otherwise you'll be frustrated trying to get it dialed.
 
I think the M1 carbine stock is pretty neat, on a more practical level I'd get a good set of rings and glass, to push the limits of the 10/22's range.

If all you are going to do is bust pop cans at 50 yards you don't need a scope.

If you want to try and shoot a prarie dog through the eye as 100, you need a scope.

It really depends on what you will use it for.

Every one of my rifles gets a sling, plenty of times I've needed a sling in the woods... and its good to have a way to carry it and leave your hands free for your binos or whatever.
 
I would get a power custom sear/hammer/trigger to clean up the trigger. (Mine is at 2.5lbs). With the extra 50 get your barrel reworked by one of the guys on RFC. Will be a sleeper rifle in no time.
 
I second what DoubleTapDrew stated in post #10. Its nearly identuical to my set-up which has proven to be very reliable and "one hole" accurate @ 50 yards with even bulk ammo. Its a bit heavy as a carrying rifle, but perfect for plinking, targets, and prairie dogs!
 
Sell the damn thing for 150, save a extra one hundred up and add it to your 200 and buy a CZ. Then you will own a lifetime rifle that given a little decent care will be around for a couple of hundred years anyway.
 
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