Improving Trigger by Weakening Mainspring

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Drakejake

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I have two rimfire revolvers (Taurus, 22lr; High Standard, .22 magnum) which have very heavy double action triggers. Both have coil mainsprings. Can I lighten the trigger pulls by replacing these springs with weaker ones or by cutting some coils off of them? I understand that if the spring is too weak, the gun will misfire, but these springs seem double or triple the strength they need to be. The single action triggers are fine.

Thanks,

Drakejake
 
In the pursuit of knowledge I often modify and sometimes have destroyed components; however, the gains have far outweighed the cost. So, the rule I have is to buy a replacement part and perform the modifications to it. This will allow you to return to OE specs if/when you want to and you still have a base line to compare with. Brownell’s is a good place to start. If you can’t find a replacement, I wouldn’t touch a thing.
 
Short answer is yes.

Check out the replacement spring kits by Wolfe, Bullseye and so on. Midway has some, Brownell's have some. It takes a little experimenting, but yes, it's a very viable option.
 
The longer answer is, you might can reduce the trigger pull by reducing spring load, but not as much for a rimfire as for a centerfire - it takes more of a lick to fire the rimfires, and more for a magnum than for a LR. Springs are cheap, have at it.
 
I also recommend Wolff Gunsprings. Just get a reduced power spring pack if they have one for the revolvers you've got. My Ruger has a reduced power trigger return spring and the lightest hammer spring, and it never misses a beat.

I'm no engineer, but I think clipping coils will have a very different effect than using a weaker spring of the same length.
 
No matter who does it, whose kit you use, whose "super dooper" spring lightener system you try, there is no escape from the laws of physics. When you lighten a mainspring you reduce reliability and increase the odds that at some point the gun won't fire. Most makers build in a degree of overkill to make sure the gun fires even under poor conditions (cold, wet, dirt) or with marginal ammunition.

Removing that extra insurance is not a big problem on plinking or target pistols, it is a potentially very big deal on a defense gun.

Jim
 
I wouldn't install a lighter mainspring unless you have the expertise to modify/polish/recut angles etc and know when it's likely to cause a problem, or develop a problem down the road.
If you just cut coils off the spring, then you're shortening the spring's potential range of motion, possibly making the spring fatigue or fail earlier.

Trigger jobs should never be done to certain guns also, like J-frames (that are already pretty light), and are more likely to be used in a social setting.
A ruger blackhawk is popular to mod because it's easy to mod, the legal problems are less likely, they're a lot of 'em out there, and they have been known to improve immensely.
You can spend from nothing (pop one ear off the spring to lighten pull.) or spend LOTS (Power custom hammer, pawl, old style conversion, etc.)
 
I wouldn't do any trimming on that factory spring. Direct aftermarket replacements are cheap enough that experimenting needn't be ruinous.

Generally, I agree with Jim K. If it's supposed to be for self defense I'd leave any modifications to a qualified and experienced professional. Personally, I'd rather shoot it enough to really break it in with what came in it (at least several hundred rounds) to see how it smoothes-up before considering messing with anything. You'd be surprised at how much improvement some use along with proper cleaning and lubrication can make. Let's face it, in most cases a basic "action job" is just paying someone to put the right amount of wear in the right places for you, as long as there's nothing amiss with the mechanism.

I have a Taurus M-94 .22 revolver that benefited a good deal from a bunch of shooting, but I wanted it "better". I bought a Wolff "Shooter's Pack" kit from Brownell's that contained a reduced power (9#) hammer spring and two trigger spring options (6.5 & 9#). With some experimenting I was able to get a very satisfactory improvement in both DA and SA trigger action without any discernable loss of functional reliability.

If you must tinker, this route is the one I'd recommend. A small investment in a couple of special tools will go a long way to smoothing the DIY path.

Properly fitting screwdrivers. If you don't have 'em, get a set. Hardware store items will chew up the slots and mess up your pretty finish big-time if they slip.

Rebound spring tool. If you anticipate doing any tinkering or detail stripping the lockwork on any revolver with a S&W-type action - get one. It'll save you untold grief and frustration, not to mention hours of searching the floor for that tiny, strong, essential spring that went "spwiiing!" while you were trying to get it out or put it back. Brownell's stock number 080-666-000and, at $14.08, cheaper than a bottle of good whiskey or Anger Management therapy.
 
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