Inexpensive ammo vs. expensive ammo?

[dairycreek]

Just bought some fairly inexpensive UMC ammo for my 9mm and 45 ACP pistols. I have used this stuff for years and it has always been 100% reliable. That raised a question in my mind as to what the real difference(s) between expensive and inexpensive handgun ammo might be. I handload rifle ammo and understand that some bullets are just way more expensive than others - is that the main cost difference? Have at it. Good shooting

 

[Nick96]

I've had good luck with UMC centerfire rounds in both autos & revolvers. The really cheap aluminum case CCI Blazers worked fine in revolvers - but reliable function was spotty in autos. Accuracy of all factory rounds (premium or cheap) seem about the same. Ignition reliability has seemed to be pretty good too (never an issue with UMC).

With regard to .22LR, again I found the CCI "budget" offering to be very dirty and reliability was spotty in the auto. Ignition reliability was also spotty in both auto & revolver. I use almost nothing but a steady diet of Rem. Golden .22LR's in all my .22's any more, and they work fine, burn clean and are as accurate as anything else. And a brick of 525 can be had most anywhere for under $10.

I guess the bottom line is, if it's a revolver most anything that will fit into the chamber will work. You may pay for the cheaper ammo cost with added cleaning afterwards though. Autos seem to be pretty ammo sensitive. That said though, there are some budget rounds out there that are good performers in autos (i.e. the UMC in my experience). So before putting an auto on a steady diet of premium ammo (most all of which works fine), experiment with some of the budget offerings. And when you find one you like - go with it for practice. Around here the UMC FMJ 115 grain 9MM goes for about $5 a box of 50 - compared to my favored 9MM round (Fed 9BP) for close to 4 times more expensive.

 

[stans]

Cheap ammo may lack waterproof sealant around the primer, perhaps the adhesive used to waterproof the junction of the bullet and case. Powders may not have the flash suppressants of the premium ammo and the powder may burn dirty. Bullets are the cheap bulk variety, might even have small, almost invisible blemishes. Cases may have tiny blemishes as well. Sometimes cheap ammo is also assembled cheaply and you will see widely varying overall lengths of the rounds.

I have used UMC, American Eagle, Blazer, USA and PMC. All have worked well, most were accurate, but none seemed to be quite as accurate as the premium ammo.

I have no problem practicing with the cheap stuff, but rarely will you find premium hollowpoint designs in the cheap stuff.

 

[Ohen Cepel]

I shoot a lot of surplus/cheap ammo. Usually, it's a bit dirtier than "good" stuff and I don't use it for carry ammo (want hot hollowpoints for that).

However, for practice and plinking "cheap" ammo is great in my mind!

 

[Edmond]

I have used the UMC, WWB, Wolf and some reloaded stuff in my pistols. They have all fired fine. The cheapest of the three was the Wolf. The main difference that I saw was that it was also the dirtiest and smelliest. Not a problem if you clean your gun after every trip.

I have used Wolf in 9mm and 45acp. WWB in 9mm and 45acp. The UMC was only used in my 45acp. WWB was pretty accurate along with the UMC.

 

[Wildalaska]

Cheap ammo...the gunsmiths friend...especially the doggie stuff

WildiusehsmorwinAlaska

 

[Valkman]

I've chrono'd UMC and compared to other brands it was horrible, both in the extreme fps spread and standard deviation. I've had Blazer cases split in a revolver. You're much better off with Win. White Box than those brands, and I think you'd find that the better the ammo the more consistant it will be. That's why alot of us reload - we get great quality ammo that's very consistant AND inexpensive.

 

[stans]

I will agree with Valkman, I use the cheap ammo when I don't have time to load my own, but for the reloader, it is often cheaper to roll your own. The 9mm may be the exception to that rule with all the surplus ammo on the market. For 45 ACP, it is almost always cheaper to reload. I can buy 100 rounds of 230 grain FMJ for $20, I can reload the same for $10-$11. I can go even cheaper by using cast lead bullets.

 

[DigMe]

I've found UMC to be an unusually dirty shooting ammo...at least in .40. I've had a couple of problems with Winchester White Box in .40.

I've had nothing but sweet success though with the CCI Blazer 9mm. I buy that stuff like it's going out of style mainly because it costs $3.86 per 50 from Academy Sports and Outdoors. Before tax that's less than 80 bucks for a case!! There is no cheaper 9mm ammo anywhere and I've never had one problem with it and it shoots accurate for me out of my Springfield XD-9 subcompact. I've had good success with WWB 9mm too but it's more expensive.

The really cheap aluminum case CCI Blazers worked fine in revolvers - but reliable function was spotty in autos.

Really? What caliber? Were you having failures to fire or failures to feed or eject or what? How often did it happen? That's unusual because you're the very first person I've talked to out of dozens who's had any problem with CCI Blazer ammo. Most people I've talked to about shoot it a lot and have zero problems. Did this occur a long time ago or recently? Maybe it used to be bad ammo...now it is not.

brad cook

 

[GLOCKME]

I have good luck with my WWB in 9mm..

Good prices found and good reliabilty..

Lots of bangs for the buck..

 

[Ala Dan]

I've bought and used UMC, Speer Lawman, and Wichester's
white box in 9m/m, .40 S&W, and .45 ACP. Never noticed a
problem with any of it; as it peformed flawlessly.

Best Wishes,
Ala Dan, N.R.A. Life Member

 

[Black Snowman]

My Dad was shooting some UMC 9mm 124 gr FMJ RN through his Firestar and at 10 yards it was all over the target. With my cheapy mixed brass, mil-surp powder, and Rainier HP 124 gr plated bullets he was doing 3-5" groups at the same distance.

Could have been a bad batch or it could simply be his Star doesn't like UMC but there was a noticable differance in accuracy. My cheap relaods being much more accurate than the cheap factory ammo.

I've personally found Remington brass to be substandard but it really only matters if you reload. If it works well in your gun, the cheap stuff is normally fine.

I like PMC as my cheap brand. YMMV and all that

 

[Moparmike]

UMC does nothing but jam in my 10mm Witness. However, it eats up Blazer and PMC, with it prefering Blazer.

 

[Nick96]

Reply to DigMe,

quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
The really cheap aluminum case CCI Blazers worked fine in revolvers - but reliable function was spotty in autos.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

That was my comment. I've had problems with .25, .32. 380 & 9MM (don't regularly shoot .40 or .45 - so I can't offer comment on those rounds). It's typically been failure to eject problems (usually "stove pipes"). Also occasional ignition problems with the autos. I don't recall any ignition problems at all with the revolvers. And yes - the autos in question cycle the "premium" ammo flawlesly - so I don't think it's the guns fault. And I don't subscribe to the "limp wrist" argument regarding autos. If it doesn't work perfectly with whatever "wrist" I'm using - it's no good. Never a problem with .38, .357 & .44Spl. revolvers (if they even offer it I'd be afraid to use aluminum cased .44Mags). The aluminum cases may be a little sticky over the steel & brass cases ones - but they still popped out without difficulty from all of my revolvers (DA & SA).

So the bottom line from my experience is - go ahead and use the aluminum case rounds in revolvers if you want to. But in autos - don't expect flawless reliability.

 

[DigMe]

So the bottom line from my experience is - go ahead and use the aluminum case rounds in revolvers if you want to. But in autos - don't expect flawless reliability.

I realize that you've gotten spotty reliability from yours but I've shot hundreds of rounds of 9mm CCI Blazer through my XD-9 subcompact so far and never had one problem. No FTEs or FTFs. Nothing but flawless, accurate shooting and ejecting. I've read plenty of similar reports from lots of people. So, it looks as though I have good reason to expect flawless reliability...because that's what myself and many others have experienced with Blazer ammo. I'll continue to shoot them as there's nothing that even approaches that price or performance in my experience so far. If those weren't available I'd probably shoot Blazer Brass...which Academy carries for $4.99 per 50...which is still over a dollar more per box than the aluminum cased ammo at $3.86 per 50.

brad cook

 

[DMK]

So the bottom line from my experience is - go ahead and use the aluminum case rounds in revolvers if you want to. But in autos - don't expect flawless reliability.

My experience was the exact opposite. I've used aluminum cased Blazer 9mm, .40S&W and 45ACP in a number or semi-auto pistols and a carbine. I've never had one problem with the ammo. It's been consistent and reliable.

However, I did have a lot of problems with the aluminum cases in my S&W Model 28. The cases were too slick and moved around in the cylinders causing it to bind.

 

[bullseye717]

I've got no problems using cheap ammo. I like the white boxes in 9mm, practice shooting of course. I draw the line at Wolf. I know some people swear by them, I just don't like steel casings I guess. Besides, the white boxes might be $2 more in 9mm. Correct me if I'm wrong Wolf users.

 

[Edmond]

9mm Wolf is negligible in price compared to 9mm WWB. It's the .40 and .45 where you start seeing a price difference and that's only if you're buying at least 500 rounds.

 

[spacemanspiff]

blazers have fed just fine in my kimber. i havent tried umc in .45acp, but wasnt really impressed with it when i had my steyr m40.

i prefer pmc, winchester, or american eagle for carry, though if i see a good deal on them i'll buy enough to make a day of it at the range.

the lawman left lots of unburned powder all over the place. anything on the bench was covered in a fine grit of powder.

i had to talk one of the walmarts into matching the price of blazer their other store had. they wanted $15 and change for a box! they were generous and let me have four boxes at their other stores price of $10.44, still overpriced by about a buck but who cares? its just money.

i gotta start reloading.

 

[Rebel Gunman HK]

Blazer for my handguns! WWB is great too.

 

[foghornl]

The only issue I have had with the aluminum-cased Blazer it that the fired cases were a bit 'sticky' to extract from my Ruger .357 Vaquero. Worked OK in my .45ACP's though.

And, the Blazer did live up to its name in my short-barrel Sheriff's Model Vaquero. Quite a bit of muzzle flame, and did leave more 'soot' on the cylinder front than the PMC or American Eagle stuff.

 

[flatrock]

My Glocks like WWB and CCI blazer.

Both are really dirty, but cheap.

I've put 1000 rounds of CCI Blazer, 2000+ rounds of WWB, and about 100 Blazer brass throu my .45 ACP G30.

I've never had a problem with extraction. Not even once.

I have had 2 problems with bullets feeding too high and hitting on the top of the barrel instead of going into the chamber. That was a problem with the magazine, and easily fixed.

I've fired over 1000 rounds of WWB 9 mm through my G34. I've had a couple light primer strikes due to my tinkering with the gun, but no feeding problems or ammo problems other than what I can tell I caused.

The stuff is awfully dirty though.

In both the 9 mm and the .45 ACP the ammo is as accurate as I am. I haven't tried from a bench rest, but I can shoot quarter to half dollar groops at 25 feet, with WWB ammo when firing very slowly. Unless I replace the stock barrel, I don't expect to be able to do better than that.

What don't you get in cheap ammo? You don't get a jacket bullet with a jacket that encloses the base. You don't get a lead-free primer.

If you're shooting indoors a lot and inhaled lead is a concern, you might want to pay a bit more for TMJ ammo.

 

[Berg01]

Sometimes "less-costly" ammo can be the best ammo; a good friend of mine reloads 200 gr. LRNFP in .45 ACP, and for $8.00 / 50, it is the best, most accurate stuff that I've fired out of my SW1911. When he is reloading (not often enough) I take as many bulk packed rounds as I can get.

 

[TonyB]

I usually get the value pack(9mm) WWB too..and have had no problems..I recently discovered the 38 value pack..very dirty but accurate enough, and I think a little on the hot side.The ONLY feeding problems I've ever had was with Winclean.2 jams with my Glock 17 and a couple that didn't go off.I usually shoot the cheap stuff and spend more on my carry and defense loads( I shoot them eough to know they'll be reliable and accurate though)...

 

[BluesBear]

I am a cheapskale! ANd damn proud of it.

A LOT of my shooting is done at a local gravel pit. 99% of what I shoot there is Blazer Aluminum or Wolf.

When I shoot at the indoor range on weekdays when no one else is there I shoot brass cased ammo. Nut on the weekends I once again shoot only Wolf and Blazer-AL.

So, through a relatively stock Colt MkIV Series 80 Government model, that's over five THOUSAND rounds of Wolf & Blazer-AL with ZERO malfunctions.

I recently want to my local range with a fellow THR member and watched him and a friend, as well as Lady45 and P14Enfield out 150 rounds of Wolf and 100 rounds of Blazer-AL through a Colt 1991 Compact with, yes you guessed it, ZERO malfunctions.


I am so sorry that so many of you have such temperamental pistols.