Installed new thumb safety; needs more dimple.

[proud2deviate]

I bought a Wilson Combat extended thumb safety off the 'bay, and installed it on my Para Ordnance P13 today. I had to take a bit off the lug to get it to engage. I had to take a lot more off the little shelf where the plunger sits to get it to fit into the notch in the slide.

It functions fine now, but it's not quite as "snappy" as the old one. Seems I made the little dimple too shallow.

What would be the best way to deepen my dimple? To allow for a more positive engagement of the safety plunger, that is.

 

[Kruzr]

Part of that snick sound is the lug and it's flatness against the sear legs and part is the plunger and detent.

If you didn't take to much off the lug, you can deepen the "dimple" with a detent tool.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/st...?p=7665&title=1911+AUTO+DETENT+SPOTTING+DRILL

 

[1911Tuner]

Snap

Do a quick test:

Hammer cocked, thumb it just a wee bit past half-cock and engage the thumb safety...both on and off-safe. If it gets snappier...do it again and leave the safety on. Thumb it off slowly and watch the hammer closely. If the hammer moves toward the slide...even a tiny bit...you're not quite through with the lug. It may only take another thousandth or two, so go very, very slow.

Do this BEFORE altering the detent's engagement area.

 

[RogersPrecision]

Or.......reassemble the gun minus the hammer/sear/disconnector and try the safety.
I use an 1/8" carbide ball burr in a Dremel to rework the detent when needed.

 

[proud2deviate]

Got it figured out. (feeling kinda sheepish. . .)

First, the lug did need two more strokes on the file. Thanks, Mister Tuner!


Second, I wasn't thinking about the new thumb safety being a lot longer than the old. Another half inch of leverage really makes a difference.


Just out of curiosity, what should a safety feel like with the spring and plunger removed? My old one has no resistence, the new still gets a little friction moving to the safe position. Do I need to take more off the lug? (Far easier to take more off than to put it back on. There's a lesson that'll piss you off in the learning. . .)

 

[1911Tuner]

Friction

The lug blocks the sear, and ideally, it should block any and all sear movement, yet still not actually press on the sear leg hard enough for you to feel friction as it moves in and out of engagement.

Real-world, that ideal can be just a bit trcky and/or tedious to obtain. Since it's working better, I wouldn't take any more off the lug beyond a little light stoning to smooth it up. It will probably wear in with use, and find its own sweet spot. A drop of oil once in a while will help.

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Back. had to pop out to tend to one of my dogs that had foot surgery yesterday.

Do a quick safety fucntion test: (Unloaded gun.)

Cock the hammer and engage the safety. Pull the trigger with about double the normal force needed to fire it.

Hold the left side of the gun up to your ear and slowly pull the hammer a wee bit past full-cock, but don't let it touch the grip safety. Listen closely. If you hear a tiny "click" it means that the sear moved and pulling the hammer off of it let it reset. Too much was removed from the lug. No click is good. All is well.

 

[proud2deviate]

I tried the test and nary a click was to be heard. A drop of oil got rid of most of my friction.


Thanks again, Most Esteemed Mister Tuner!

 

[1911Tuner]

re:

Excellent! Good show, lad.

(Hope I don't get sued or anything.)

 

[Kruzr]

(Hope I don't get sued or anything.)

I think you need to give advice AND coffee before you can be sued.

(Does anyone else think "needs more cowbell" when they read the title of this thread?)

 

[1911Tuner]

So...Sue me

heh heh...Kruz, I've been unsuccessfully sued three times over the coffee alone.

 

[Old Fuff]

If they drink the coffee they may be in no shape to sue...

So I am sitting here with a fresh mug that I can't drink because I just took some meds. Lets not mention coffee again lest that the Old Fuff goes over the edge...