Installing pin-on sight base on AR barrel - should there be channels in the barrel?

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IMtheNRA

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When I test-fit the front sight on the barrel, about half of the space for each of the two pins is taken up by the underside of the barrel. The pins seem solid, and I can't imagine them deforming and following the contour of the barrel, then entering their appropriate hole on the opposite side of the front sight base.

Are there supposed to be two channels, perpendicular to the bore, milled in the underside of the barrel to accommodate the two pins or are these pins meant to be brutally pounded and deformed into their proper place under the barrel? :what:
 
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No channels in the barrel, you make those yourself when you use your drill press to cut them. They make jigs for this.

Don't just try and beat them in there, that is not how it is done and it will not work.

Might consider a different gas block or have a gunsmith install it.


Search Youtube for videos on how to do it.



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YES. Please don't try to brute-pound the pins in. You will lose. Recommend a CLAMP-ON type gas block for best results.
 
This is what a barrel looks like with a pinned gas block for reference.
 

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you make those yourself when you use your drill press to cut them

Please don't unless you have a fixture. Even then, it's iffy; twist drills flex and go toward the path of least resistance, so going into the side of a radius or angle is gonna deflect them, even with a drill guiding jig. Even if you manage to get them in straight, they'll try to deflect coming out the other side. Trust me.

I use my mill with a 6" machine vise and sharp carbide center cutting end mills.
 
Just buy a barrel that already has the front sight tower. You can get them from $150 to $199.
I've already built three lightweight carbines with DTI barrels from JSE Surplus.
 
Pin on front sight bases were military spec for some reasons. First, they are tamper proof, Joe can't mess with them. If there is one thing GI Joe will do, is disassemble the gun past his level of operational maintenance and then screw it up putting it back together. That just creates more work for others and dead lines his gun on the spot - which may have been a quiet moment in a busy day of combat. And some would do that to get out of it.

Second, pins held the FSB on to resist torquing when a bayonet was attached. Most civilian shooters won't and don't need that level of retention. A barrel set up for set screw use usually has a detent ground in on the bottom surface of the barrel for the screw tip to fit into, and that has been doing a good job for quite some time on thousands of owner built rifles.

Because owners like to change things, a set screw or clamp on sight base allows easy changes in the future. And that is now under government control, as changes in ITAR regulations will require a gunsmith who alters the weapon by removing or installing pins to obtain a separate license, about $2500 a year. So, the price of working on them will go up. Even if we get the State department to back out of this, it still remains - a pinned sight is considered a permanent alteration. You do drill into the barrel and it does leave grooves in it, which may show if other changes are made later. Many owner builders avoid the extra work and complication. I, for one, changed up a build with handguards held on with a clamp on FSB and later installed a free float with optic. The cost was all in the parts with no gunsmith fees involved, done in less than half an hour.

Pins are permanent, but how we might want to change furniture on an AR isn't.
 
I agree that clamp on or set screw type gas blocks are the way to go for home builds (I prefer clamp on).

I recently did an overhaul on a Colt 6920. I was tired of seeing the front sight in the scope at low magnification and wanted a free float handguard longer than the gas block.

Since I already had the FSB, and the barrel was already drilled for it, I just cut down my FSB into a low profile.
 

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as changes in ITAR regulations will require a gunsmith who alters the weapon by removing or installing pins to obtain a separate license, about $2500 a year.

I don't see that this particular operation falls under the purview of the new DDTC policy:

2.Registration Required –

Manufacturing: In response to questions from persons engaged in the business of gunsmithing, DDTC has found in specific cases that ITAR
registration is required because the following activities meet the ordinary, contemporary, common meaning of “manufacturing” and, therefore, constitute “manufacturing” for ITAR purposes:

a)Use of any special tooling or equipment upgrading in order to improve the capability of assembled or repaired firearms;

b)Modifications to a firearm that change round capacity;

c)The production of firearm parts (including, but not limited to, barrels, stocks, cylinders, breech mechanisms, triggers, silencers, or suppressors);

d)The systemized production of ammunition, including the automated loading or reloading of ammunition;

e)The machining or cutting of firearms, e.g., threading of muzzles or muzzle brake installation requiring machining, that results in an enhanced capability;

f)Rechambering firearms through machining, cutting, or drilling;

g)Chambering, cutting, or threading barrel blanks; and

h)Blueprinting firearms by machining the barrel


The in order to improve the capability of assembled or repaired firearms language is important here. The installation of a pinned FSB rather than one using set screws does nothing to "improve capability".
 
If you want the M16 style front sight there are three manufacturers that offer clamp on front sight bases:1) Armalite, 2) JP Enterprises, and 3) A.R.M.S. Inc.

The Armalite is the least expensive and is a simple bolt-on (I have one installed on a carbine.) JP Enterprises has an adjustable gas block. The A.R.M.S. #41 has a fold down feature (I have two rifles fitted with this one.)

My experience with the Armalite and A.R.M.S. clamp on front sights has been positive. I have no experience with nor know anyone who has experience with the JP set up.
 
Dentite, thanks for the photo. That is actually my intent as well. I need to cut down the original FSB gas block to convert the 6920 to a "Dissipator" for it's longer sight radius.

I like the look of the original sight combined with the A2 style handguard, so I'll get the clamp-on to place it further down the barrel. All of my original FSBs are pinned take-offs, which is why asked the question in the first place.

Having shaved down that gas block, do you think you have enough clearance to install the A2 handguard without making any alterations to the heat shield lining?
 
Good question...I'm not sure. I've never handled A2 handguards but looking inside my carbine handguards, it looks close if it has a similar dimension.
 
Please don't unless you have a fixture. Even then, it's iffy; twist drills flex and go toward the path of least resistance, so going into the side of a radius or angle is gonna deflect them, even with a drill guiding jig. Even if you manage to get them in straight, they'll try to deflect coming out the other side. Trust me.

I use my mill with a 6" machine vise and sharp carbide center cutting end mills.

Aren't the milspec pins a taper? meaning its not a normal drill bit or cutter used to cut them.

I know when removing the A2 sight you need to drive the pins out form the "small" end -- its not painfully obvious but is obvious its not gonna work if you start beating on the large end to drive it through.

Usually tolerances stack up enough to make the sight towers not interchangeable if replacing on a different barrel -- about the only place the AR is not "mix and match".
 
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