installing round butt mainspring housing(colt defender)

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Looking at the wilson round butt main spring housing for my defender. What all is involved in the swap? Rounding the edge of the frame and pressing the pins out and swapping? Normal media blasting bring the finish back to stock? Its a roughish casting. Anything im forgetting or ignorant on?

Thanks for any help
 
Unlike the more extreme Ed Brown "Bobtail"... it uses the stock MSH pin location, so no, if you've got the skills and tools... and it sounds like you do, it shouldn't be too difficult.

C
 
Hard to tell... the frame in the photo looks dark and somewhat course, and it may not be a glass bead blast finish. I'd start with fine glass, which will provide a more fine silvery finish (than that as I see it in the photo at least)... and if you don't like it, try a courser media.

IMO... The slide stop, thumb safety and grip safety are just begging to be polished. :D

C
 
How does one polish these? Just like anything else stepping up sand paper from 600-1500 then polish with creme? I'm ordering wilson polished stainless ambi ext safety tomorrow. Thanks for your help.
 
How does one polish these? Just like anything else stepping up sand paper from 600-1500 then polish with creme?
Unless you have assorted sanding and rouge type polishing wheels... yes, the "by hand" method described is about the best. Even a Dremel with some Cratex discs and points would certainly speed up the process.

C
 
I have a table type belt sander/disc sander with abrasives for aluminum... so that's what I'd use to get it down to about 85%-90%, then get it to a 95%-98% "shaped" finish with files followed by various grades of wet and dry to a nice 600 or better finish before media blasting. Use a sanding block so your lines and flats stay straight.
Don't think that fine media blasting will make scratches disappear... unless they are 400 grit or finer scratches, that's not going to happen.

You can do it with nothing but files, but it will take a while. Look at it this way... if you've not filed much aluminum, this will be a good way to learn what works and what don't.
Get a file card to keep your files clean. Use good files like Heller and Nicolson for examples... and if you can find them, aluminum files. Load your file with chalk or soapstone before filing... keeps it from clogging up too fast.

Here's an interesting quote from the Aircraft Mechanic's Pocket Manual: "As the file teeth point forward, the file only cuts on the forward stroke. On the return stroke the file should be raised slightly to prevent dulling the teeth. Note: In filing soft material such as aluminum, Dural, lead, etc. the file should be drawn back over the metal as the teeth are cleaned on this stroke."

Take your time, have a plan, don't try to do it all at once, stop when you get tired... and have fun! :D

C
 
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