Is a Powder Trickler worth using?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Randy1911

Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2009
Messages
914
Location
Arkansas
I did a search and could not find a answer to my question.

I am loading 30-06 for my Rem 700 and was wondering if buying a powder trickler to do my reloading will improve my accuracy enough to make it worth using. I am wanting to get at least a 1-1/2" groups @ 100 yards (I may be dreaming for something that is not possible). Would a trickler help or do I just need to spend more time working on load development. My current load is 165 gr. Hornady SPBT with 55.0 grs. of IMR 4350. What would you consider good accury for this rifle?
 
With a good barrel and bullets your gun likes, 1 to 1 1/2 MOA @ 100 yards is possible with thrown charges from a good measure. Harrels, RCBS, Redding, etc.
 
Probably doesn't help.

Many more importent things affect accuray then a 0.1 grain variation in a 55.0 grain load.

I do use a trickler when loading for some of my varmint rifles, but I doubt it makes any differance you can measure on paper.

rc
 
Thanks Guys. That is kinda what I was thinking. I am loading on a Hornady LnL AP press with Hornady measure.
 
I used to weigh and therefore trickle individual charges. But once I acquired a good micrometer equipped powder measure I slowly phased out this technique in favor of just throwing charges.

Since doing so I must say my groups have never been better. I would say that there are many much more important variables than .1 grs that could be addressed
 
I can use my Lyman Pro 500 and a Honady trickler, and load as accurate and just as fast as a Charmaster @ a fraction of the cost.

Dip he charge low, and trickle up to the line. Dump powder and redo. Takes no time at all, and I don't have to use electricity to do it. It is ehh hmm.. A green way to reload. LOL!

Yes, a trickler and a good beam scale is well worth it IMO. I feel they are accurate. Well of course they are.

I have a powder dropper but it is a lLee, and I just don't trust it. Since I don't trust it. I don't use it.

Again. Hornady trickler and my Lyman beam scale at eye level. I can kick out the loads very accurately.
 
I have an RCBS Trickler which I weighted the bottom using flat washers epoxied into the bottom hollow (different sizes that just fit all the way to the bottom).

I only use the Trickler for one particular load and that is my 22-250 varmint rifle load. I throw the charge a tad light (never over, as it takes too long to take powder OUT OF THE SCALE TRAY) Then I trickle up rather quickly, right up to perfect (perfect alignment of the scale's horizontal lines).

I also use Bench Rest Primers. That is about the extent of being careful I am with my favorite most accurate load that I have ever worked up. And, since I only use that gun to shoot something I know I will hit, every shot counts. I don't "plink" with that gun at all.

I use a 50g Speer TNT which I chronied on average of 3,990 FPS with IMR 4064 powder.

I use the Dedicated Saturn Aluminum Funnel which sets perfectly on top of the 22-250 casing and just dump the scale pan and move on to the next. Once every case in the block has been charged, I look down to be sure all the cases have powder that is all at the same level (almost a compressed load).
 
I never weighed a charge in my bench gun, and it could shoot aggs in the teens at 100 and 200.

Barrels, bullets, actions, all else is a distant 4th, 5th, 6th, etc. Some of it very distant.
 
Instead of using a trickler, just put 4 or 5 charges in a small bowl and trickle with your fingers. It is faster than a trickler and after awhile you develop a feel for how much to trickle into the pan. The other option is to get a good powder measure as mentioned. Just be aware that very few can get repeatable charges out of a typical measure, especially the log jam powders. And consider this- say you are loading 55 grains of powder with a 150 grain bullet and are experiencing half grain variations. That is less than 1% variation. Now simplistically, you'll experience 1% velocity variation. With a 200 yard zero that variation would cause about a half inch variability at 400 yards. Very few of us are good enough to discern this and I suspect that you won't either. I'm lucky to notice several inches at 300.
 
My process is very quick and accurate. I fill the pan with a dipper to just under. Put the pan on the scale. I have the trickler mounted to where it will not interfere with the pan. I just roll the trickler and the scale rises to the desired weight. Never above or below. Right on every time. Well 99.9999% of the time.
I thought about getting a Charge Master, but for $300+ i can't do anything better or quicker than I am loading now. And if I don't weight the charge. I use Lee Dippers.

The trickler is a God send.... As mentioned.
 
I got pretty proficient as well with my trickler. I can just put my right hand over the top and spin the tube using one finger. That brings the beam up quickly, then I slow down as it nears the horizontal line-up. Then it is just usually a powder kernal or two to finish. Then I lift the pan off the scale and dump the load.

Then back to the beginning again. I detest it when I throw the charge and the charge is already over my target weight as I have found the longest step in the entire process is the (hopefully) very few times that I must take some out of the pan. It slows things down because I must remove some then trickle back up again!

I use a powder measure with micrometer adjustment which is so accurate that I can simply dial in the weight, check it by throwing the charge into the scale pan and, even when I am throwing light to trickle up to weight, with the micrometer, it is spot-on EVERY TIME! I have a notation in my reloading notes for that load that is written like 'Powder Mic 138'. So, starting at zero, dialing past 50, then past 100, then up to 38 in no time and it is exactly the same as when I used it many times before on 138 for that particular powder.
 
I was burnt by the Lee Powder dispenser so many times. I have a place in my mind that all of them are bad, but I know that isn't true. I also cannot for certain throw the same way 100% of the time.
I can however fill the dipper to the top, and then reach over with my right hand and roll the load up to "zero". Every time.
i am not trying to open a discussion on "methods? which is better?"

I want a press like the OP has so bad, but I just do not see right now how it would make a difference for me. Would a trickler help the OP? Sure it would if he was loading and weighing like his progressive was a single stage. If the OP is not getting 1.5" groups at 100 yards out of a 700 then there is an issue somewhere. He should weight every charge dumped by the LNL AP. If it is throwing consistent. Then he should change bullets. If it still doesn't shoot MOA. Then he should check his brass prep and crimp or lack of crimp. And so on... And so on...

Right now a trickler would not help as much as a good scale, and checking every round loaded/thrown with that press until you can illuminate the charging.
If charging is good. Change other components one at a time.

I started loading by piecing components together. So the road I went down lead to me buying a beam scale and trickler.
 
I find a trickler handy when doing load development. I throw 40.0 then trickle to 40.3 then 40.6, 40.9, etc. At a point I might reset the dispenser to drop more. then repeat.
I just throw charges after the dispenser is set.

Ideally you want a load that will tolerate a little variance and have a powder measurse that does not vary much.
 
For the occasions where I might use a trickler I've found that using a little Lee dipper is less trouble. I just scoop up a little and sprinkle it in until I'm satisfied. I think I'm using the one that came in my 380 die set.

ST

:)
 
Does a trickler help? Sorry Eb1, I went for the overpriced Chargemaster 1500, but that was only after 2 years of balance beam scale and trickler. And actually I liked using the trickler, it made me feel like I was doing something important and I took more pride in my loads. (damm automation will get you every time.)

But back to the question, YES. Not that it's going to make your loads any better ( a bad load is a bad load), but because it removes one more variable from the equation. Each and evey powder load is exactly the same. So when I am at the bench with my rifle if I am having problems with my groups, it's not becasue the load varies but more likely something to do with my rifle. (bedding, headspace, trigger pull, rubbing of the barrel on the stock, scope coming losse or just poor markmanship.)

So the answer is yes, it's worth it. Just one more thing I do not have to worry about.
Jim
 
I am sure I will get one soon, but for now. I can load accurately, and that is all that counts. Is that we have methods that allow us to load efficiently, and safely.
 
Well, we think most 30/06 's of decent quality (bolt actions) are quite capable of well under an inch center to center and very many are capable of under .5 in. center to center (100 yds of course). Assuming you go through your accuracy checklist and can do your part.
 
I have an RCBS Trickler which I weighted the bottom using flat washers epoxied into the bottom hollow (different sizes that just fit all the way to the bottom)...
I drilled 3 holes partially through the inner wall at the bottom, and then filled whole bottom with lead. Without the holes, the lead will just fall out. I suppose you could always drill after pouring and run a couple of sheet metal screws into it instead. Or, epoxy the lead back in after it cools and falls out. Either way, the lead adds a maximum amount of weight and it's pretty darned steady. It's not my idea, but I don't recall where I read about it.
 
I use a trinkler. But I seriously doubt that it makes any huge difference in my accuracy. It's just that I don't like "almost" right.
 
If you are shooting long range, like 600 and over, it would be a good idea to weigh all your charges, but for short range it isn't necessary. IMHO of course.
 
maybe...

the trickler doesnt seem like it is worth the trouble unless you weigh and seperate the brass...

an easier home trickler is to just use another shell and hold it horizontal and roll it between your fingers.
 
Depends a lot on the powder being used. Ball powders dispense in a much more uniform manner. Stick powder can vary greatly by much more than a tenth of a grain and for those I use a trickle.

Big difference? Who knows but consistency is one of the most important areas of handloading. For $11.00, I don't think it's worth the other methods. The, in my case RCBS doesn't spill powder if handled carefully.
 
Tricklers Are Ok!

I also use a trickler (the Lyman w/ the long neck) for load development. I need the long neck so it hits the pan on the RCBS electronic scale. Considering their modest cost, there is no reason not to get one.

Using your fingers in a pinch (play on words intended) is ok, but you have to watch out for contamination.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top