Is the Lyman reloading handbook sufficient?

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raindog

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I'm just getting into reloading. I happened upon a Lyman Reloading Handbook (current 49th ed.) on sale a while back and bought it. I've read that, plus the ABCs of Handloading and various things on the net.

Do I need another reloading handbook? The Lyman handbook has formulas for what I'm planning to reload (.308 168gr Sierra HPBT, probably with IMR-4064). Is there any reason to own more than one handbook?

I am not planning on using Lyman equipment...probably either Lee or RCBS or a mix.

I'm guessing the answer is no, but thought I'd check with the THR brain trust...
 
The books are really good at explaining the reloading process with the tools that company produces. Sometimes the descriptions carry over to other brands of tools, sometimes not. Scales and powder measures pretty much work the same. Priming tools are similar, but not exactly the same. Dies are all different. Some screw in all the way then back one full rotation, some two, some none.

You'll just have to get a feel for it once you get started. Just buy Lee Dies and you'll be set. Every Lee die set (except the cheapest of the sets) has a full set of instructions and load data for that caliber.


Beyond that, choose the books that list the powder and bullet component you intend to use. If the book has what you intend to use, then there's little need for more. If it doesn't, then the book is next to worthless.


Eventually you'll find you want others because as you branch out you'll need the variety the different volumes offer. One of the greatest benefits to reloading is the versatility. For right now you're probably good to go.
 
You can never have too many. I have over a hundred, some older than I am, and some published in a foreign country, I bought it while I was in Australia. I watch gun stores and second hand stores and used book stores. I still don't have all the new ones and I figure I'm missing at least another hundred old ones. They are all worth while and all get looked at when I'm working a new load, especially for an old gun or an obsolete caliber.
 
It's a good start but If you like to reload you will try other manuals and all the articles you can get your hands one.

I've been learning for over 40 years.

This is a great location.
 
Dittos with a slight caveat

I started (actually re-started after a long time) with the exact same books earlier this year. They are excellent, but, as you'll see, not necessarily complete. In fact, you'll see some loads for given bullets and powders in other books that differ from the ones in the Lyman. Feel free to ask lots of questions -- as a relative newcomer I do all the time.

Also, try to get someone to personally walk you through the process. If you can't do that, pick up a video to get the right visual images fixed in your mind. Go slowly, pay attention, and have fun!
 
Remember that the more sources that you have the more you can reinforce the decision. The books do have the occasional misprint and it will be caught with multiple sources. Also when I purchase the odd lot of old propellant, the books of that era should be used to load it with. Some old cartridges will be dropped from newer books due to lack of interest in loading for it so old books will be the only source. As a caution the loads posted on the internet sites are only a guideline as your firearm is not THE one used to develop that particular load. Always check the books and start low then work up to that load. Extra trouble when developing a load could save your firearm or even your life.

Now off the soap box. Welcome to a fun and satisfying hobby.:D
 
Yes, I think the Lyman #49 is sufficient for one just getting started.

Reloading data is available free from all the powder manufactures on the web.

Use that on-line Manufactures data to cross-reference / double-check against the Lyman #49 data and you will be fine.

As you develop further interests, it's good to buy specific manuals from the bullet manufactures too, if you are going to use a lot of that brand of bullet.

Nosler & Barnes for instance, make a lot of exotic hunting bullets that don't exactly fit in the grand scheme of things with jacketed bullet data found in other manuals.

Speer, Hornady, and Hodgdon, as well as the Lyman's from years past are all among my go-to manuals.

But, if I had too, the Lyman 49 would get me by quite nicely.

rc
 
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Since it has a pretty good description of what to do. And it has the load you want, it'll do for now. But as you go, you'll buy others. We all do over time.
Just be a little fussy about what you are doing and follow all the rules.
 
The Lyman book is sufficient, but you should still have cross references. The easiest way to do this is to pick up the free powder pamphlets at the gun dealers while you're there.

Load on.
 
You can play it either way--

1. I agree, Lyman 49th can be sufficient.

But cross-referencing never hurts anyone, AFAIK.

2. Therefore, you can

a. cross reference using manufacturer's online data (rcmodel's comments)
b. cross reference from a preferred-supplier's printed manual.

I bought The latest ABCs.... when I started up reloading again thirty months ago, and I downloaded many powder manuals to printed versions. Then, as I settled into a particular area with (typically) Speer bullets, I bought Speer 14.

You don't want to spend all your time at the computer, do you?

Jim H.
 
Right now I'm starting with 9mm. What I don't understand is why my Lyman #49 manual doesn't show a 115FMJ, a 125FMJ or a 124 LCN, or even a 124 LRN. All of the most common 9mm bullets!
 
I have recently joined loaddata.com. It's about $35 per year. You can sort by caliber, bullet weight, or powder & it includes data from ALL the current manuals. For 9mm 147 gr cast, I load Unique. If youload more than 3 or 4 calibers, It's a great help.
 

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Raindog: there's no such thing as too many loading manuals. I've been loading for 33 yrs. and I've found that the best way to work up a load is to consult 4 or 5 manuals and average out the loads. It's a rare thing to get exactly the same data from different company's books, but if you avg. the loads you'll be in a "safe" area.To save some money, buy manuals that are published by companies that DON'T make powder or bullets, Lymans is a good choice. There are manuals that are caliber specific, they have the best variety of powders and bullet combinations. I have a bunch of them from:Loadbooks usa. (www.loadbooks.com)They are titled "One Book/One Caliber) and they're only $8.00 each. I load Ranier plated bullets almost exclusively, and these books have info for plated bullets. by the way, plated bullets are non-frangible and allowed in almost all indoor ranges and outdoor competitions. email me and I'll help you out any way I can. [email protected].....I might be able to help you save some money,too. I'm also a shooting instructor so rest assured I know what I'm doing. Good Luck, Be Safe.
 
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Chris in VA: for those 9mmP loads,

You need the Lyman Pistol and Revolver Handbook.

I have the third Edition; I believe they have now published the Fourth.

At any rate, The P&R Handbook has published data for 90-95-100-115-125-130- and 147-gr. jacketed bullets, and for 90-120-125- and 147-gr. cast bullets as well.

Jim H.
 
I have found the lyman manual MUCH more accurate than the hornady... havent tried speer or others.
 
Lyman is a great general information handbook - I have one and use it often. HOWEVER, there is no reloading handbook panacea. YMMV, but when I am reloading with Speer bullets, I go to the Speer manual first. When reloading with Hornady bullets, I go to the Hornady manual. When reloading with Missouri Bullets, LaserCast, or some other "odd" bullet, I reference several manuals.

To answer the question in paragraph #2, YES, you need other reloading handbook - several if you are serious about reloading and shooting safely. A few bux spent on reloading manuals is pretty cheap personal injury insurance.
 
What I don't understand is why my Lyman #49 manual doesn't show a 115FMJ, a 125FMJ or a 124 LCN, or even a 124 LRN.
Ah, but they do show data for:
90 JHP
95 FMJ
115 JHP
125 JHP
147 TMJ
90 LRN
120 LRN
120 LTC
147 LEAD RNFP.

All of the JHP bullet weights can safely be used with FMJ-RN of the same weight because the bearing surface of a JHP is always longer then a FMJ-RN of the same weight.

The 120 grain lead bullets they list are in effect, 124 grain when the bullet lube is added to the grease grooves.

rc
 
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