Is this crimp enough on a 45 ACP?

Status
Not open for further replies.

buenhec

Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2006
Messages
391
Location
Phoenix,AZ
I have been messing around with my Lee factory crimp die and get many different answers on what is a good crimp and what is more reliable.

The pic on the left, shows a heavier crimp, the one on the right shows a lighter crimp. The ammo is a 45 ACP with 230 RN Raineer at 1.33 for use in a Sig 220.

Someone told me it should be crimped hard enough to show the shape of the bullet through the brass. Any suggestions or pics of your own? Also how do I get a better taper, its still a little rough. Would this be through harder crimping or adjusting the height of the die on my Dillon 650?

Since the thumbnail will not work, try this link for the pic. CRIMPED45ACP003.jpg
 
Last edited:
I don't think your pic's made it, bud. The .45 ACP headspaces off the case mouth so little crimp should be used, however it needs to be enough to prevent bullet setback. Expand case mouths just enough to hold the bullet on top, then use just enough crimp to remove the belling of the case mouth.
 
The .45acp bullet is held in the case by friction not by a crimp. As has been stated just remove the belling and that is it. I love the FCD made by Lee for rifle cartridges but I am no fan of the FCD for pistol. If you are loading lead bullets sized .452 the case should bulge a bit. Running through a Lee FCD only sages the bullet down which is not good.

Take Care

Bob
 
i crimp my 45acp to .471 workd great in both my 45s, a XD45 and a PT1911

you should still be able to feel the edge of the case clearly, as stated above just remove the bell.

A good test of your ammo, will drop in your barrel?
 
As robertbank said. No crimp is needed for the .45 ACP. No amount of crimp is going to eliminate set back on the .45 ACP unless you crimp it enough to cause it to fall too far into the chamber and the firing pin can reach it. When loading this case just bell the case enough to start the bullet then crimp just enough to remove any belling left. Do not over crimp as you may also damage the bullet.

If you are using Lee dies or any other reputable die manfacturer the seating die has the proper crimp as part of the die. Use it sparingly...
 
I use the LFC die for my .45acp and 9mm loads but I'm not squeezing the lead out of the slug, just a light snug crimp after I seat the slug with the seating die. it's more a sizeing check than anything for me, and IMO worth the time involved. I also check the primer pockets when I place the case into the Lee hand primer, maybe a little too cautious to suit some.
 
Another vote for Lee's FCD for handgun reloads. I use them for both my .45ACP and .357mag. Like the others have said, it really doesn't 'crimp' so much as it removes the bell and ensures that the round will chamber. In my 1911, this is critical to avoid FTF and FTEs, and the Lee die does the trick.
 
I crimp my .45 reloads so it just takes out the bell and just a touch more. I almost have to use a loupe to see the crimp. I do use one to check crimps.

Now that the pic works, it looks excessive, especially the left one. Whoa!
 
Last edited:
The left one, Walkalong? My eye sight must be failing...Because I see a slight bell on the left one and an over crimp on the right one...And I know about "old age" so don't bother to bring that up...:D

Buenhec...You couldn't have made the photo a bit smaller could you?:D

Mike in md...I crimp (or remove the bell) to .471 to .472. Yours will work, but just a bit worried, on my part, that you might be just a bit much. My worry is about damaging or deforming the bullet...I've had no feed problems at that measurment in my Colt with custom match barrel...
 
Last edited:
Taper crimp in .45 ACP won't increase case neck tension enough to prevent setback if the brass or bullet is mismatched or the sizer ring is too large.

The brass case is springy while the lead bullet is not so crimping into the bullet doesn't do much because the brass case springs back and the bullet doesn't. You rely on the sizing step to prevent setback. Roll crimp is a completely different game.

Crimp enough to just remove the flare and leave it be. No calipers necessary. Also, 1.33? You mean 1.23?
 
Bushmaster. Look again. The right one looks like too much crimp, almost like a roll crimp. The left one has something going on a full 1/8" down the case!
 
45 crimp

you do it your way I do it mine after following some of the best target shooters.I roll crimp leaving the bullet out 1/32 in.I use 200gr swc.crimp in top land.my and others is to jam bullet in rifling and let slide close to head space.at 50 ft its x ring at 50yds stays in 10 ring.course my gun will feed emtys out of mag.:D :D
 
That's what I said Walkalong...:neener: "aghhh !" Must of "oopsed"...:D

Teddy...So will my Stock Colt series 80. And yer point?:D I would be a little hesitent to jam bullets into the rifling, even if they were lead. It would just take one to not let the slide return to battery...buenhec may be a first time reloader and should be told the correct way to reload. He can experiment on his own after he has learned the basics...:cool:
 
All my dies are Hornady, and using the TCD setting at .469 with plated SWC's at the moment. 's the bee's knees. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top