Is this ok as a handgun safe?

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Donut

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https://www.honeywellsafes.com/sites/prod_detail.cfm?product_id=19

2050.jpg


It also comes with a removable shelf... Right now it would just hold my Colt 4-inch Police Positive Special, a few boxes of ammo, and a couple loaded speedloaders. Two questions:

1) Mounted to a secure surface, what kind of security will it provide? Anything has to be more secure than the dual-Master combo-locked Doskosport case (and shoebox for ammo) that I currently have.

2) How many handguns will the 13.58" wide x 9.21" deep interior footprint handle? I'm not looking to stuff it, but I may be adding a Bersa Thunder and/or G23 to my collection (depending on the tax retun :) ).

Oh yeah, can someone explain this to me: a cubic foot = 1728 cubic inches. the interior dimensions of the safe are 13.58" x 9.21" x 9.65" and according to my math that equals ~1207 cubic inches which is ~0.70 Cubic Feet, not .54. What's the deal? (Yes, I'm aware that I'm a big nerd. I also calculate rounds' KE for myself and check it against the manufacturer's advertised energy.)

Thanks all.
 
It looks like those chinee safes we get here for $AU20-30. They are not legal as a pistol safe here (meet most specs, but are not fitted with anti drill plates between lock and door), but if you are not subject to govt specs, they would probably do.

The most improtant things are thickness, recessed door and security behind the hinges, (that way the dorr is held on both sides). Look behind the hinges and see if there are locking bars or whatever engaging. Open the door, turn the handle to engage the locking device (while the door is open) and feel around behind the door near the hinge, you should feel bars like the ones shown in the diagram coming out.

The mounting hardware is important as well. I would use 10mm locksons into the concrete floor and lay the safe on its back so the door opens straight up, that way you don't have to get your nose on the floor to see into the safe.

Unless it it high quality steel and has enhanced locking devices, I wouldn't want to pay much for it, the keypad, and knob, etc are absolutely identical to the cheapy chinese ones.
 
True.

Actually, ANY safe that weighs less than your apartment or house needs to be bolted down! ;)

...and most likely with better hardware than comes with the safe!

-- John D.
 
Unless it it high quality steel and has enhanced locking devices, I wouldn't want to pay much for it, the keypad, and knob, etc are absolutely identical to the cheapy chinese ones.
Click to expand...

The Honeywell Corporation makes pretty quality stuff, usually (I'm pretty familiar with their turbocharger division, Garrett). I found it on WalMart.com for $40 so it's not a huge investment. I figure another $10 in hardware from home depot, and it'll be good to go.
 
The "anchor it" comments are well placed however I felt a little guidance was in order. Firstly a long sawzall blade (metal cutting) will make short work of unhardened bolts. I'd recommend the largest diameter and hardest bolt the safe will accomodate. Further I'd consider using concrete anchors in the basement, in a corner to make things harder for them. Before I get flamed for suggesting anti sawzall bolting, remember that cordless sawzalls are now commonplace and are often used to defeat exterior door frames.
 
rockstar.esq, you bring up an excellent point.

Let's say that this safe, or any safe/ rsc for that matter, is bolted to the floor and walls with super dupper top of the line bolts, resistant to cutting.

What is to keep said thiefs from using the sawzall to merely cut the wall out of the house, and a concrete blade to cut your foundation?

It seems to me that if someone shows up with a sawzall and can't cut the bolts, why not just cut the wall?

Just wondering.

M
 
I'm kind of looking at it in the same light as my car. If a criminal REALLY want's it, he'll get it. He'll have to flatbed it, since my car has a factory immobilizer, but someone determined enough would be able to take it. I'm just counting on the fact that my car doesn't appear to be anything special, thus not worth all the effort.

I highly doubt that someone who would break-in would find the safe, let alone come equipped to remove it. I can't really see it generating enough interest to warrant the effort it would take to remove it. Ya know?
 
I even bolt down my full size rifle pistol safe that weighs 400#. To the wall and floor. I also have a "deterent" inside awaiting some unsuspecting...uh suspect!
 
That's a good place to put it, but I think you would have to avoid certain states (interstate travel) that require even a locked up gun not be within reach...which is a shame because in my SUV, that's also the best location.

Not sure how to solve this dilemma.

-- John D.
 
Outside of my state the laws get really confusing to the point that you can not carry legally in say Las Vegas where I just went for training no matter what you do. If I'm outside of my CHL area then I don't carry a gun. ;)

I use the safe in my jeep because I unload before entering the work area and wanted a better solution than leaving it under the seat. At $20.00 you can't beat it. Its heavy duty and has a key override if the batteries go dead. I ran a cable through it and locked it to the seat bracket.
 
Not sure about this one, but some of the small safes that are fire resistant are intended for documents only. They are fire resistant because they have some type of filler between the inside and outside walls of the safe that promote moisture in the safe. Needless to say, not good for guns. The safes I looked at even had warnings not to store jewelery, metal objects, etc. I broke down and bought a small gun safe - money well spent.
 
It looks identical to a Stack-On brand safe I have. If the batteries die, there is a key lock behind the removable panel on the face (it's between the knob and the keypad; you can kinda see it in the photo).

It would work well for a handgun safe intended to keep little hands off the mini bang sticks, and it might also deter smash and grab style burglars. It will NOT stop a determined burglar- it is pretty much just sheet steel, and a power drill will make short work of it.

It's better than nothing, but I intend to buy a more secure gun cabinet eventually.
 
New Safe

If your main threat is little kids and smash-and-grabs, then bolt that puppy down and worry no more. Just remember to keep it locked. :) If someone really wants a safe that size and of that build he'll have it and all that's in it. If you get a good collection going you'll want to get something with more balls.
 
I agree pretty much with marksman1023.

As an aside, I find the phrase, "heavy gauge steel" to be amusingly ironic. Generally, light steel is measured in gauges, the heavy stuff is measured in fractions of an inch.
 
If your main threat is little kids and smash-and-grabs, then bolt that puppy down and worry no more.
Click to expand...

You know, until now, I never even considered the little ones. My only kids are of the four-legged variety. But it did make me think for a second and my Mom does occaisonally watch a neighbor kid or two (I still live at home), and I try not to be here when she does (one annoys me to no end, and the other has a "crush" on me). So on that front, the bolted-down safe will provide me a bit of extra piece of mind.
 
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