Ithaca model 37 unreliable?

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I have 1986 vintage 3" 37 made for Charles Daly. It is very sturdy, light and reliable gun. I had some issues with couple and even post 855,000 serial # spare barrels should be tested on receiver for proper function prior to purchase. This is easy at lgs as they have testing range so all I have to do is bring few shells and send unfortunate salesman in back to test it. I feel bad for newer employees as Ithacas being light weight can have stout recoil. I'm nice so I bring light 65mm game loads for them to use.
For HD I would rather have something with option of throwing extra shell into ejection gate to be quickly fired. This can not be done with Ithaca 37, but having G20 with night sights and low flash ammo I do not need HD shotgun.
 
People must be awfully sensitive to light if they are blinded by muzzle flash. Last night I fired a few rounds with a Ruger Blackhawk and a Maverick 88 with an 18.5" barrel, both with cheap ammo. Neither produced enough muzzle flash to bother me.

The Ithaca 37 shoots very good and is a reliable weapon. The Ithaca does take a little getting used to.
 
There is a design feature that can cause an Ithaca to malfunction if the gun is not maintained. The left hand shell stop has a spring behind it and rides on a pivot. It the spring becomes weak, the pivot or channel the shell stop rides in becomes dirty/gummed up, then the gun can definitely have issues with double feeding, spitting shells on the ground, etc.

There is also one other problem with the same that came about due to an engineering change. After the gun design was acquired from Remington (yep the original Ithaca 37 design was first put out by Remington in 20ga only), the magazine tubes were made with a pressed in bushing at the end. The inside diameter of this bushing was such that it controlled the presentation of the shell rim to the rt and lt shell stops in a very precise manner.

Due to someone's infinite wisdom, probably some bean-counter, this design feature was changed to a simple roll crimp. This enlarged the magazine tube (now I am going to refer specifically to 16ga guns as these are what I deal with and restore) by .030 overall or .015 on a side.

You don't thing this means much, but if you take a shell rim with minimum tolerances on its OD and run it through a tube that is now sloppy, the tangent point of the shell rim can miss being grabbed by the left hand shell stop and pop out on the ground.

I have machined up .015 thick wall thickness bushings to go inside a current made magazine tube (roll crimp design one) to adapt it to a 1970 vintage receiver (before the design change was made). With the insert, the gun feeds shells precisely into the shell stops.

As far as dirty conditions or weak springs, I received one that had both. It would spit shells on the ground, misfeed etc.

There is a very simple 2 part fix for this. Take the buttstock off and get yourself some gunsmith in a can, ie: spray brake cleaner. Your take the buttstock off so you don't fill up the inletting area with any more gun that it already has.

Then spray the insides out and clean the gun, then re-oil.

If this doesn't fix the condition of a gun that used to work correctly, then replacement of the spring is in order. The spring is only a couple dollars from Ithaca Gun. Shipping is probably more than the cost of the spring. I was able to procure a few locally.

In the early guns, you will need a jeweler's / micro screw driver to get the screw pin out. Do not bugger that up. And when you re-install it, do not force it in and bottom it out. Gently screw it in until it touches and then back it off a half turn (even 3/4 turn).

Later guns use a pin assembly to hold the shell stop in. You have to take the slide/bolt assembly out to take this apart.

The spring simply pushes into a machined recess in the shell stop. I don't remember at this time whether or not one end of the spring was different sized, sometimes I just work on things and adjust as I go along as I am assembling parts. But keep in mind you might need to swap it end for end. It will go into the recess and stay there for you to reassemble.

One of the best things that owners of older Ithaca guns can do for themselves is learn how to take the gun apart (use good gunsmith screwdrivers, not a set from the Bubba store) and give it a good cleaning and relube it. I put gunslick grease on the contact points, but your mileage may vary. I have also come to really like Clenz-Oil. Works really well for removing gunk, dried oil, etc.

You won't have to take the trigger pack apart, but simply give it a good spray cleaning. You could even soak the parts in kerosene.

Another place that is overlooked is the inside of the magazine tube. I have cleaned the older ones I have and was surprised at the amount of rust / crud that gets in there when people don't clean them out.

Take out the magazine tube spring and shell follower. Get yourself a 3/8 or if you have a drill that will handle it, 1/2 in wood dowel. Cut a slit in the end and push some 0000 quad-0 steel wool into the slit. Soak the steel wool with oil and run it up and down in the magazine tube. You may have to change the steel wool, spray it out with brake cleaner, etc depending on where the gun has spent it's life and rusted/got dirty.

Once it is clean, oil the inside of the tube with a good rust-preventative gun oil, and do the same to the spring, clean and oil it and reassemble the gun.

dave
 
Ithaca 37

Had a model 37 years ago and sold it, Kicking myself later for getting
rid of it, Missing it so much, last year i went out and ordered a new one.
12 gauge Model 37.
 
The Model 37 was one of the last guns designed by John M. Browning.
JMB didn't design any unreliable junk.

The Model 37 was used by the LAPD for many years as well as many other police departments. The Navy used it for years, and it was the issue shotgun of the Navy SEALS.

The one "weakness" of the 37 in police use was it could jam if you rested the gun over the top of a car and the bottom eject shells were blocked.

The reason the Model 37 stopped selling to civilians is because of the price and less availability due to the lesser financial health of the company.
They just didn't make a lot of guns people wanted to buy, so it got harder to find them.

The reason the police stopped using it was again, the higher price and the more adaptable and readily available Remington 870P.

The Model 37 was the last of the old pre-war solid forged and milled steel "tank" guns.
 
Am wondering if the Model 37's can have an issue with "headspace". Mine often has a problem with light firing pin strikes, esp. with Federal steel loads. I know the design is rock solid, but my Featherlight is early 80's production and I've heard those aren't the best years for Ithacas.
 
had this 37 for 24 years....is marked AP...was made in 1970........it has killed more deer than i can count.....wouldn't trade it for 4 870's...

2nggaj8.jpg
 
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Am wondering if the Model 37's can have an issue with "headspace". Mine often has a problem with light firing pin strikes, esp. with Federal steel loads. I know the design is rock solid, but my Featherlight is early 80's production and I've heard those aren't the best years for Ithacas.

Do you have a dial caliper ? Take the barrel out. Measure from the barrel face to the shoulder right past the threads. Write that down.

Measure from the front of the receiver into the inside shoulder (at the end of the internal threads). Write that down.

Each measurement should be within a couple .001's of the other. More than that, depending on how the difference is can cause a problem. If the measurement from the face of the receiver into the internal shoulder is significantly more, then the face of the barrel will be away from the bolt.

Unlike the Mossberg 500 or the Remington 870, the Ithaca 37 bolt locks up into a cutout in the receiver, as opposed to the barrel extension. So there is a dimensional relationship there that has to be maintained.

Also, a gummed up firing pin channel can cause an issue. Here is the takedown guide that will walk you through disassembling the gun and doing maintenance

http://stevespages.com/pdf/ithaca_3787.pdf

there is a lot of expertise here:

http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewforum.php?f=59&sid=8802b2b5681b395f633ca26ff018f749

come join us there
 
Ithaca 37s were the issue shotgun of the LAPD from 1937 to 2007.

I guess 70 years of law enforcement service means they were pretty reliable.

Just my .02,
LeonCarr
 
Thanks drcook! I'll take some measurements and head over and do some reading. Glad it's the weekend!
 
Not to be a wet blanket on this salute to Ithaca , but I had a 12 ga. many years ago that you could hold the trigger back & pump to fire until the mag was empty. I actually liked that feature . The reason I sold it was because I fired the gun pumped the forearm & as best I could figure at the time , the shell being ejected did not clear the gun but hung in a downward position on the lifter while it fed a round out of the mag & into the chamber. The result was it fired out of battery by the rim of the spent shell hitting the primer of the shell in the chamber, singeing the hair on my forearms & scaring the @#$$%%^^&&** out of me . however a good cleaning & a new mag spring put it back in service . It was a fine gun because it didn't ruin the gun or me. Now flame on.
 
If the rim on a shell is towards the minimum and the gun gets dirty inside, that can happen.

I had one that was dirty and sticky not want to feed snap caps. The rim on the snap caps was towards the low side in size and they did the same thing. Hung up, double fed, got stuck in the lifter.

Keeping Ithacas clean and functioning correctly is critical.
 
I have purchased two brand new Ithaca model 37 featherlight 12 gauge shotguns this past year. BOTH of them have issues with light strike on the primer. Thus, no shot fired. Not just me, but two other shooters have experienced the same issue on both guns. I have sent them back and just finished testing out the first one received back from the factory. Regretfully, I have the same problems as before and my son shot the gun with the same results!...so, something has changed. Anyone else had this issue from a purchase within the last 12 months?
 
Absolute nonsense.

Having multiple manufacturer's shotguns in the arms room to choose from, more often than not I chose a 37.

Stone axe reliable - loved the bottom eject and properly trained, sustained fire is very easy with one.

Loved 'em then, love 'em still.

Sounds like the OP tuned into a "hater" or one of those expert-repeaters that spread so many crummy rumors.
 
I own a Rem Mod 17 (same as the Ithaca 37) my grandfather bought in 1920's. He shot it for 40 years, my Dad shot it for 20 years, and me for 30 years. No problems ever! That is a great design. The reason the 37 is rare these days is that 870s and 500s are less than 1/2 the price.
 
Still occasionally shoot my grandfathers 1947 M37. Other than than occasionally short stroking it, it's been very reliable. I'm thinking about sending it in to be reblued and have the 67 year old springs replaced. He shot the crap out of that gun...upland game and ducks.

I like the feel of the gun enough that I have a couple cheap used ones, one kept in the 5th wheel and one at the office. The new one is the 8 shot model with wood furniture. I bent the mag tube by over-torquing a flashlight mount, which Ithaca replaced for free even though it was my fault.

A little over a case of Remington express 00bk run through the gun and no hiccups. As to the issue of port loading that was brought up in post 9, turning it upside down is one way. Another way is to keep the gun right side up and pointed downrange. Use your thumb on the rim of the shell to push the lifter bars up until you make contact with the receiver then push forward into the chamber and send the slide home. Two problems here: 1. short fingers will not work and 2. if you tip the front of the shell up instead of parallel to the bars you will jam it up. Safest (but slowest) to load one in the mag and pump.
 
my ithaca 37 12ga 3" mag has been a very good shotgun with no problems at all shooting 2-3/4" or 3" mags. eastbank.
 

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It's not just the old 37s, the new ones are just as good. I bought the new 37 trap model and is gets more rounds thru it than the military would put thru a shotgun.
The poster on the other forum probably owns a Tossberg and thinks they are the finest gun made.
 
The poster on the other forum has forgotten that the guns used by the military are chosen by meeting min. requirements and are the LOWEST BIDDER.

I thing oletymer has coined a new term "tossberg":)
 
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