I've about had it with Remington 1100s

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PJR

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I've about had it with Remington 1100s -- Updated

This past week I did some shooting instruction for a group of women who hold an annual two-day sporting clays getaway at a private lodge and clay facility about 3 hours drive away.

This is the third time I've been asked to work with this group and in anticipation of the event I acquired an excellent condition Remington 1100 Skeet 28 gauge. The soft recoil and short stock make it perfect for beginners and the semi-auto action has a couple of advantages while teaching compared to an o/u.

Before the course I was test firing the gun at the club and it jammed and I mean JAMMED. The bolt was half open, frozen solid and had to be pounded out with a mallet. It had turned out part of the action bar block that the bolt sits on had sheared off and the pieces had jammed up the gun. The gun still worked without those pieces but the bolt handle wouldn't stay in place.

No problem I thought because Brownell's had the part in stock and one was ordered immediately. The part arrived just in time and on my way to the shoot I dropped into the post office to pick it up. I had taken off the old action bars and left them at home.

At the lodge it was a snap to put on the new action bars and before the students arrived I slipped onto the range to test fire. The gun worked except the shell carrier wouldn't go up far enough to get a shell into the magazine. What I had was a single-shot 1100 which wasn't going to get the job done.

The two days went uneventfully otherwise and I used my o/u instead.

When I got home I noticed that Remington had changed the design of the action bars on the 1100. On the older models there are two slots on either side of the block that aren't on the newer design which would explain why the carrier wouldn't go up far enough to allow shells in the magazine.

Finding older style action bars for a 28 gauge has proved a challenge. Brownell's doesn't stock the old style and Numrich is sold out.

As I see it my immediate options to get this gun up and running are to contact a machinist friend and have him drill slots in the action bars similar to the old style or grind down the carrier so it fits the newer style action bars.

I have also considered ordering a new carrier for this gun assuming that its design has changed to work with the new action bars. Replacing the carrier is probably beyond my skills and would incur a gunsmith charge but at least this way if it broke again I could replace it with currently available parts.

Any suggestions on which course I should take to set this gun right?
 
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Did you call Remington? The usually are very helpful in my experience. They always ask for the serial number of my guns if I order any parts just to be sure the new parts are compatible. I wonder did Brownells do that? I hope you get it figured out.

On another question to your post... I have ayoung 12 year old daughter who is of small frame. Would you think the 28 ga 1100 would be about the lightest in weight and recoil I could use to start her in trap shooting? I want to get her a youth 20, but something tells me she just isn't large enough for it yet.
 
I have an email request into Remington and haven't heard back from them yet.

As for the 1100 28 gauge it's ideal for teaching young people and why I choose it. The 20 gauge isn't bad except it often kicks as much if not more than the 12.
 
PJR - Can't help with the 1100, but I've recently started using a Beretta 391 20ga youth model (one of the new Urika 2 models) with some students. Given how light the gun is, I've been really surprised by the lack of recoil. I've had some really small-statured shooters use it, and it's been great.
 
I had headaches with the 1100, so like a dummy, I got a 11-87 Premier. It was a Beaut that couldn't shoot. Same song and dance, turned out to be a single shot. I traded that thing on a SW 41mag mountain gun, finally a smart move. Then got a Winchester SX2, and am a happy camper. No longer feel stupid in the duck blind.
 
The bolt was half open, frozen solid and had to be pounded out with a mallet.

I suspect the cause of the broken part was from the manner in which the jammed action was cleared. Pounding on the bolt handle with a mallet will in fact break the cast slot in the action slide that holds the detent ball & secures the bolt handle.

Sorry to hear your having problems with the replacement and I suspect you may be better off having a smith do the proper parts match-up . The 1100 is normaly a very reliable gun and a real sweet shooter in 20 or 28 gauge.
 
I suspect the cause of the broken part was from the manner in which the jammed action was cleared. Pounding on the bolt handle with a mallet will in fact break the cast slot in the action slide that holds the detent ball & secures the bolt handle.
I don't believe that's the case. It wouldn't explain why the gun tied up in the first place nor would it explain the two pieces of metal that were jamming the action. Also the pieces that broke off came from the front of the block on the right hand side, an area that wouldn't be stressed while being removed in this fashion.
The 1100 is normaly a very reliable gun and a real sweet shooter in 20 or 28 gauge.
Sweet definitely but not reliable particularly the current versions. At the shoot described above a participant had an 1100 28 gauge go out of service with a piston ring that came apart. I took the one off my gun and leant it to her for the rest of the shoot. I can also name 5 shooters at our local club with recent production 1100s in 20 and 28 gauge who have had a variety of problems.

I've recently started using a Beretta 391 20ga youth model (one of the new Urika 2 models) with some students. Given how light the gun is, I've been really surprised by the lack of recoil. I've had some really small-statured shooters use it, and it's been great.
That thought has crossed my mind and if I did more instructing would be the direction I'd go. There is a lightly used 20 gauge 391 on the board at the club going at a good price and it's tempted me.

Or I could fly to Italy, go to Beretta and stage a hunger strike until I get a commitment from them to make the 391 in 28 gauge.;)
 
Remington's customer service finally responded and were helpful. I was in error when I concluded there were two types of actions bars. It's not an unreasonable assumption as there are two types for the 870.

According to them I got the .410 bars which are very similar to the 28 gauge bars and will fit in the larger gauge gun. Brownells website is a little confusing on the matter and doesn't clearly distinguish between the two.:rolleyes:

In the meantime I sourced a replacement action bar set elsewhere that will put me back in business immediately and the set I have are going back to Brownell's for replacement. That will leave me with two sets of actions bars but based on what I've seen with these guns having an extra set will probably come in handy at some point.
 
As for the 1100 28 gauge it's ideal for teaching young people and why I choose it. The 20 gauge isn't bad except it often kicks as much if not more than the 12.

:eek: That hasn't been my experience. I have arthritis, and find the 20 ga. very pleasant to shoot.
 
It depends on the gun. A light 20 gauge will often kick more than a heavier 12. I owned a Browning Citori Feather for a few years and it definitely hit harder than my 12 gauges.

The difference between the felt recoil of the 28 in an 1100 and a 20 is noticeable and because the guns are shorter with lighter barrels they are easier to hold particularly for younger shooters and women.
 
Hmm, never owned an 1100. Had an 870 once and there were things I didn't like about it, but it worked okay. I've read a lot that Remington has been going down hill in recent years. I hope they get their act together, 'cause it's a grand old company with a lot of tradition. They import the Spartan line and I got one of the doubles, been thinking a lot about the SPR453, but it's not Remington built. I'm pretty happy with my Winchester for autoloaders, though, and don't really need another, not that need has anything to do with it, LOL. The 453 would be a good duck/goose gun, though.
 
Which Spartan do you have, what do you mostly use it for, and how do you like it? My boy uses the SP310 O/U with the nickeled receiver. I see lots of railing against it on here, but it has been flawless so far at the trap range. Maybe we got lucky!
 
No, you didn't get lucky, the things are built well. Mine's a SPR220, 20 gauge side by side with 20" tubes, interchangeable chokes, nickle plate receiver, and double triggers. It throws a good pattern with AA 7.5 shot at 40 yards. I just got it, plan to use it for doves and even got some steel for it to try, but I haven't been to the pattern board with the steel, yet. The 20" barrels I wanted so that I can stow the thing in the bags on my GoldWing for trips, lock it up. It's to be a working bird gun, primarily. Tired of shooting 12 gauge and wanted a 20 in addition to the 20" gun for traveling.

The gun ain't real pretty, but it is a shooter! I can only knock the stiff triggers and those'll probably work in with use. Some folks will knock anything, but what they shoot, so you gotta take what people say on gun boards with a grain of salt. The gun is built by Baikal and has been available under several importers over the years. I've never seen the guns tested that didn't give it high marks for being built strong and functional. It just ain't fitted or finished like a high dollar gun, but hey, news flash, it ain't a high dollar gun. Danged decent working gun, though, and I'm not an ostentatious kinda guy. The way I treat field guns, I wouldn't want one of those engraved, gold plated megadollar finished guns anyway, wouldn't last a season, LOL.

I don't think the gun is perfect. Drop and comb isn't quite enough to fit me and the length of pull is a little short. But, it ain't a custom fitted gun either at $300. I can address the pull thing with a thin recoil pad and a little more pull length and the drop will probably be better, so there ya go. Very few off the shelf shotguns (the only kind I can afford) actually fit me perfect. My Winchester 1400 comes the closest.
 
I have two 12GA 1100's and have never had a FTF on either. Both are mostly used for trap shooting 4 or 5 boxes per weekend. I keep them in good shape, so I have no idea what they would do if ignored. I am one of those who would not expect ANY gun to function correctly if I didn't take care of it properly. That ain't gun failure. It is gun owner failure!
 
I have a few 1100s in different gauges. Can't say they're absolutley flawless, but with minimal care they are reliable and a great value IMO.

The one time I've had to turn to Remington customer service, I was impressed. Had a Sporting 28 that broke an extractor so I called, told the guy what happened, and he sent out a new one that day. Other than that, about the only things I've done is re-stake a feed latch on a 20ga and replace an o-ring or two.

Mostly I just run 'em hard on the skeet field and wipe the gas assembly down every couple flats of shells.
 
Are the Remington 1100 12 ga. versions problematic too? If so, I'm gonna stick with the 870 instead...



I've got two 1100s.
One a 1972 model that hasn't been used much, since I got it. I bought it used for $100.00. The previous owner needed some $$$ to dump into a racecar.

The other. . . a beautiful 1983 model 1100 magnum.
This scattergun is my absolute favorite shotgun!!!!!
I replaced the "O" ring for the first time, last fall.
It has literally thousands and thousands of shells through it, and doesn't skip a beat.

Proper cleaning techniques and lubricating and it just shoots and shoots and shoots.


I've NEVER had to hit ANY firearm with a hammer (or any object) to convince it to open. NEVER.





PJR. . . if you want to sell that 28 ga., lemme know. I'll take 'er off your hands.
 
One a 1972 model that hasn't been used much, since I got it. I bought it used for $100.00. The previous owner needed some $$$ to dump into a racecar.

Do you want to get all of your money back out of it? :D
 
The Remington 1100 that I have was bought back in the early to mid 70's. The price paid new was $160.00.

It had been used to take many deer and turkey, not to mention the squirrels and doves killed with it.

But, I did have a problem with it a while back in it still doesn't work properly. I think that the problem is what a lot of you have mentioned. Or similar. There is a bar that is on the inside of the receiver that works in the cycling of the gun when fired. This bar popped off the brad or whatever it is that holds it to the inside of the receiver and prevents the gun from cycling a new shell into the chamber once the gun is fired. But, it blocks the live shell from coming out of the magazine. It does not affect the spent hull from ejecting.

Anyone have a similar problem?
 
I've had no problems with an old (1970's) 1100. Shot or slugs, works every time.

I have had a problem with the "feed latch" (which keeps shells in the tube from falling out until the action is opened) on my 11-87. It fell out when I took everything apart to detail clean it. I've been told that this part is "swaged" in, so I got it in place and swaged it myself. I should take it shooting and see how it holds together, but I think it will be fine at least until I remove the trigger assembly.

Crow61, this feed latch is the bar you're talking about. I put it in (it fits in a groove) and lined it up by putting the trigger plate pins in (without the trigger assembly). Then I used a nail punch (with the receiver resting on a thick towel) at the top and bottom edges to try to re-do the swaging. The only time I had troubles with it was when I removed the trigger assembly.
 
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