Iver Johnson Revolver

[Holubec37]

I was recently given an Iver Johnson revolver that belonged to my great grandfather. I'd like to be able to find out more about it so that's why I've come here. I don't know much about it. If I'm able to, I'd like to be able shoot it occasionally. The serial number on the trigger guard reads 85403. The pearl grips screw has some corrosion on it and I don't want to chance tearing it up. It appears to have been worked on from the marks around the three pins above the trigger. Any help identifying gun details would be appreciated.

 

[natman]

Coincidence is an amazing thing. I just got the January '16 edition of American Rifleman, and on the last page is an article about the "hammerless" version of this very gun.

It's probably chambered in 38 S&W (not the same as 38 Special), or possibly 32 S&W.

 

[Old Fuff]

To answer your questions more information is needed.

First of all the serial number on the trigger guard is not complete. What is needed is the number (with a letter prefix) that is stamped on the side of the frame under the stocks - which must be carefully removed to see it.

Also you may have a .32 (6-shot) or .38 (5-shot) revolver, and this is an important point.

Last but not least, the last patent date stamped on the top of the barrel rib may be useful.

 

[Ron James]

Old Fuff is correct about the markings on the top of the gun, we need a clear picture of the roll markings. Normally he would be correct on the grip serial numb as well, the problem arises that if the MOP grips were special factory ordered, the shop didn't go in sequence with the normal order serial numbers. However from your very good picture and with a picture of the roll markings we can narrow it down. ADDED: But as Old Fluff posted, go ahead, ( very carefully ) and remove the grips and post the information here. The grips may have been added by the hardware store when the gun was purchased.

 

[Jim K]

Yes, please be careful with those grips; if they are original (and they appear to be) they are not plastic, but genuine mother of pearl, unobtainable today.

Jim

 

[Fireforger]

My Iver Johnson is very similar to yours but with black Owl's Head grips. It's chambered in .38 S&W (otherwise known as .38/200 and as noted NOT the same as the .38 Special), a 5-shot. I reload a mild load and enjoy shooting it and wouldn't hesitate to shoot a factory round (which are becoming more difficult to find). Surprisingly accurate at 7 yards so so. Of course, the disclaimer here is to have your own gun thoroughly checked by a gunsmith. Mine locks up tight, both the cylinder and the top break lock, and has a really heavy trigger pull, but still enjoyable to shoot. Hope you enjoy yours if you're able to fire it.

 

[hso]

And if they're real mother of pearl they're worth much more than the Iver Johnson they're on.

 

[jr45]

Looks like the third model of their "Safety Automatics" in .38S&W made until WWII. Based on the design of the cylinder stops and 4 pin frame, these were designed for smokeless rounds. IJ (sold under different names) or H&R top breaks are not as strong as the solid frame counter parts revolvers (i.e. colt, s&w victory models, M&P) or the Enfield No. 2 in 38s&w (aka 38/200 ) top breaks. I own both the second and third model and they are fun to shoot but can work loose if fired a lot.

 

[Jim K]

Per an article in the January American Rifleman, c. 1920 the IJ Safety Automatic (the hammerless version) cost $6; mother of pearl (commonly called "pearl") grips cost $1.50 extra. A blue finish was $.50 extra as more labor was involved in rust bluing than in nickel plating. A laborer in the 1900-1920 period made about $2 to $3 a day, so $6 was a significant investment. By contrast, a Colt SAA cost about $14, which, in spite of the usual movie depiction, was why they were an uncommon gun for common folks in the Old West.

Jim

 

[joem1945]

Very nice. Shoot mild loads and enjoy it. Your lucky to have it.