1. The gun is .45 cal, the box of balls that came with it is labeled .440, will these balls work?
Yes, they are the correct size.
2. In the box of balls is what I beleave to be the wads, but I've never seen wads like these before, they're about 1/2 inch long, plastic, both ends are convex, one end has 45 stamped in it. Are these wads or something else?
I believe those are sabots; they take the place of wads and form a gas seal under the ball. They go between the ball and the powder. Frankly, I wouldn't use them as they can leave a plastic deposit in the bore that's difficult to remove.
3. How would I go about test fireing with out useing a ball?
Not sure what you want to do that for. However, all that's needed is powder and some sort of overpowder wad to keep it in place.
4. How much powder do I need to use for test fireing and shooting? The powder is FFFg.
Test firing (again, why?): 10 to 15 grains.
Firing a ball: starting out I'd use 50 grains by volume. Later you will need to test several different amounts to find the most accurate amount for your gun.
Black powder is graded by the size of it's granules. fg, also known as Fg, is the coarsest and is used in cannons. ffg, FFg and 2fg is finer and is used in rifles and shotguns. fffg, FFFg and 3fg is still finer and used in pistols and revolvers. ffffg, FFFFg and 4fg is very fine and used exclusively as a priming powder in flintlocks. There is also a 1 1/2 g that's equivalent to 2fg, and a 7fg that's used as priming powder. 2fg can be used in pistols and revolvers without damage but it will result in slower velocities; likewise 3fg can be used in rifles and shotguns with some increased velocity. Generally, however, 3fg is not used in large bore (.54 cal and above) rifles. There is a synthetic powder named Pyrodex that is graded as P and RS; P is equivalent to 3fg and is used in pistols and revolvers, and RS is equivalent to 2fg for use in rifles and shotguns. Never use 1fg in anything but a cannon, and never use 4fg or 7fg for anything but priming a flintlock.
6. The powder measure is set at 60, is that what I sould use?
60 is a good load; however, start with 50 and then when you are familiar with the gun you can try other loads.
7. Is there anything else I need to know?
Many, many things.
First of all, your gun needs to be inspected. In particular the bore needs to be smooth and shiny. If it contains large rust pits or bulges it may be unsafe. I'd take it to a professional gunsmith for that inspection. You can do it yourself but you'll need a bore light, a cleaning jag and some cleaning patches. If you don't have access to a gunsmith, please let us know and we'll try to guide you.
Second, be sure the gun is unloaded. It should have a ramrod under the barrel. Hold the ramrod along the barrel and note how much extends beyond the muzzle when the other end is adjacent to the nipple, where the cap goes. Then insert the ramrod all the way down in the barrel and note how much remains outside the gun. If it's more than about an inch longer, the gun is probably loaded. Set it aside in a safe place and either seek help from a gunsmith or let us know.
Third, you will need percussion caps. There are two sizes of regular caps, No. 10 and No. 11; there are also very large caps know as musket caps but it's unlikely you'll need those.
Fourth, cleaning the gun: there are as many different methods and cleaning compounds as there are shooters. Everyone has their favorite method that's better than anyone else's. For my money, soap and water work just fine, and they're pretty cheap. You'll need a cleaning jag and cleaning patches. There are detailed instructions elsewhere on the forum, or just ask how.
Fifth, shooting patches. They are not the same as cleaning patches. They come in various thicknesses; some are prelubricated, some are dry. Start out with ones that are 0.010" thick and pre-lubed.
Finally, read the thread titled Black Powder Essentials at the top of this forum.
