Just got a PF9, have questions

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Sniper X

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OK, love the feel, love the fact is is a 9mm instead of "just" a 380 like my P3AT! OK, on the dry firing deal. What is the straight poop on that? I "heard" one shouldn't dry fire these but I have also heard that about every firearm which now seems to be bunk. I dry fire all my other pistols a LOT and have never had one problem.....
 
Don't dry fire rimfire guns because if there isn't a rim to strike, the firing pin can continue forward and strike the steel that would otherwise lie on the other side of said rim (revolver cylinder, etc.).

When you dry fire a center-fire gun without snap-caps or anything at all, the firing pin can also continue forward, but there isn't anything in the chamber that it will strike. I've never heard anything negative about dry firing a PF9, just certain rimfire guns.
 
I've heard somewhere that dry firing a PF-9 can damage some screw internally. Not sure how that works, or what screw they're talking about. That's all I know.
 
My understanding with the p11 is that dry firing it is hard on part of the frame in front of where the hammer stops. I imagine the pf9 is probably fairly similar internally. Personally I'd just get a decent snap cap for piece of mind.

I'm not sure if it's really an issue or not though.
 
I would just use snap caps if you're concerned about it. They are cheap insurance.

A note on maintaining the reliability of your PF-9:

Make sure you keep the extractor spring screw tight. It's the hex screw you see on the exterior of the slide behind the ejection port. The only time my PF-9 has ever malfunctioned in 600 rounds is when that screw worked loose at the range. I took mine out and put some blue loctite on the threads. No problems since. If you remove that screw, however, be sure that when you re-tighten it that you don't tighten it down against the firing pin, which can happen. The firing pin has to be positioned correctly to avoid this. If you feel the screw getting tight prematurely, that's probably what is happening. The final test is to cycle the slide when you're done, put a pencil down the barrel, eraser first, till it stops, and pull the trigger. If the pencil exits the barrel, you're done. If it doesn't, the firing pin is held captive by the screw, and you need to remove the screw, and try again.
 
As defense minister said, the extractor screw holds the firing pin in place. The reason you shouldn't dry fire it without the snap caps is that dry firing will start to shear the extractor screw since there's nothing to cushion the firing pin and keep it from striking the screw.
 
As defense minister said, the extractor screw holds the firing pin in place. The reason you shouldn't dry fire it without the snap caps is that dry firing will start to shear the extractor screw since there's nothing to cushion the firing pin and keep it from striking the screw.
Click to expand...
this.



just FYI, if you ever remove the extractor screw/firing pin make sure you put it back in correctly or things will really get messed up, I know from experience.
you can find everything you need at KTOG.org
 
The "shear the screw thing" doesn't apply to the P-11. That pistol doesn't use the extractor spring screw to retain the firing pin like the PF-9 does.
 
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