K frame .22 woes - need some advice

[Al Thompson]

I recently picked up a K frame .22LR and am having some problems.

The cylinder tends to bind due to lead build up between the cylinder face and the barrel.

Thoughts? Send it back to S&W or to a gunsmith like Clarks or Stroh?

TIA!

 

[BigG]

Scrape it off with a jackknife held perpendicular to the surface. Should work. HTH

 

[farscott]

Mr. Thompson,

Are you convinced that lead build up is the issue? If so, that suggests the revolver is shaving lead due to being out of time or the barrel/cylinder gap is too tight. If either of those is the issue, I would send it to Vito in the S&W Performance Center. It might end up being a no-charge repair depending upon the vintage of the revolver, and S&W does turn them around rather quickly.

Is it possible that the issue is something you can rectify? There might be a burr on the barrel or debris under the extractor star. I assume you have eliminated these possible causes, but it never hurts to ask. The debris under the extractor star is something that has bitten me in the past with double-action rimfire revolvers.

 

[BigG]

That is a good point from farscott. Crud under the extractor has bound up many a rimfire Smith. Blow it out good before you take the hammer and tongs to that Schmidt, Giz.

 

[Al Thompson]

Thanks!

Yep, I checked the debris issue out carefully and switched brands of ammo around. Cleaning throughly and reshooting leads (pun!) to the same issue - lead build up.

Any more votes for whom to send it to? I'm between Tamara's gunsmith, Vito at S&W on Scott's suggestion and Clark per Preacherman.

 

[JohnBT]

I've seen Vito work at a local store when they've run their annual S&W weekend. The man's got the magic touch(and the knowledge and experience.)

Vito, I know you have kids at home, but please move down here and open a shop!!!!!

John

 

[JoeHatley]

You might want to try installing a Power's endshake washer or two, IF you have the headspace to spare. That will open up your barrel to cylinder gap and help with fouling drag.

Worked great to solve the same problem on this model 17.



You can pick up a pack of 10 at www.brownells.com and if they don't work, you can always pop them out. No harm no foul.

Good Luck...

Joe

 

[444]

I am surprised no one has mentioned this but........................
I am no gunsmith and dont' know terminology very well.
It could be that the rod used to eject the empty cases is unscrewed. The rod sticking out of the center of the cylinder towards the muzzle. Sometimes that unscrews during use and causes the cylinder to bind.

 

[Wildalaska]

Before sending it anywhere, take it to your local smithy for a quick eval

WildlookbeforeyouleapAlaska

 

[HSMITH]

Does it bind on all 6 holes or just a couple? Often times it only binds on one or two and is caused by a bent crane. Hold it up to the light and look at the gap as you cycle it, if the gap opens and closes as the cylinder turns you know what is wrong.

'Bogart' it once and it can cause what you are seeing for example.

 

[Al Thompson]

Ejector rod is OK.

Crane looks good - have the rascal on my desk.

Wild - no gunsmiths' here. Couple of plmbers on a sabbatical, but no smiths.

S&W is looking good...............

 

[BluesBear]

If you send it to Smith & Wesson you have better than a 50-50% chance they'll do the work for free. Even shipping.

With any other gunsmith you have an almost 100% chance it'll cost you money. Plus shipping.

 

[Al Thompson]

Thanks BB.