K vs L frame weight

[dashootist]

Hi

I want a lighter revolver w/ adjustable sight. My 686 is too heavy to shoot offhand (one hand) in Bullseye match. I can't hold my 686 steady with one hand. I'm thinking about a brand new S&W M67 or M14. The 686 is only about 4oz heavier than the other two. The difference isn't much; that's like a quarter-pound hamburger patty before cooking. Is 4oz going to be noticeable for one hand shooting? Is 4oz worth paying $900 for a gun? I can't find either K frame locally, so I would have to order it sight unseen.

new K frame M67 - 36 oz
new K frame M14 - 35 oz
new L frame686 4" - 39 oz

 

[roaddog28]

Hi,

I had a L frame 686-3 4 inch and I currently have a 66-4 4 inch and a 13-2 4 inch. Because of the full underlug the L frame is muzzle heavy to me. I could not shoot my 686 with one hand either. A K frame magnum will handle better and balance better than a L frame. You might try and find a 65 with a 3 inch barrel or 66 with a 3 inch barrel. Both lighter than a 4 inch model and you should be able to shoot one handed. Another option would be a J frame model 60. You can buy these with a 3 inch barrel and you should have no problem shooting a model 60 with one hand.

Good luck,
roaddog28

 

[MrBorland]

I want a lighter revolver w/ adjustable sight. My 686 is too heavy to shoot offhand (one hand) in Bullseye match. I can't hold my 686 steady with one hand. I'm thinking about a brand new S&W M67 or M14.

I have a 4" 686 I use for IDPA as well as a few k-frames. The perceived weight difference, IMO, is bigger you'd expect from the actual difference, particularly during extended 1-handed shooting, or when drawing from a holster and movement to a 2nd target (a few weeks ago, I decided to use a k-frame in an IDPA match, and I swear I almost threw the gun out of my hands, during presentation to the target).

Maybe it's the underlug on the 686 that you have issues with. If so, the 67/14 would likely feel better, regardless of the weight difference, especially if you're shooting a 6" 686.

BTW, the 67-6, with its 2-piece barrel seems to have a particular reputation for accuracy. As far as I can tell, new examples are still being sold.

 

[jad0110]

I am in agreement with my fellow highroaders. A typical K Frame, even my 6" Model 14, balances closer to the trigger than does my 4" 686. So despite the extra 2" of barrel, my 14 feels livelier and less clumsy than my 686. And a 4" K Frame is darn close to perfection in balance, IMHO. But honestly, a 6" K Frame without an underlug doesn't feel much more muzzle heavy than a 4" one.

$900 for a Model 14? I take it this is one of the new "classics". Used ones are getting hard to find, but they still run hundreds less than a new one. Prices vary a ton by region, from mid $400s in some parts to low $600s in others.

 

[The Lone Haranguer]

The K frame revolvers are not only lighter, but lighter in the front. The shortened underlug (compared to the L's Colt Python-like full underlug) will change their balance somewhat. Usually, a more "muzzle heavy" handgun will hold steadier, but, it seems, not in your case.

 

[NMPOPS]

I would work on strengthening my shoulder and arm a little and save the money.

 

[Magnumite]

I used an old K-38 model 14 years back for Bullseye. Had a 6" barrel. It had good balance. I liked it. If I were to use the 686 for BE, I would use the 4" barrel because of the balance factor.
If I shoot a revolver in bullseye again, I would get another K-38 or use my Ruger Sec Six like I did before I bought the K-38. Both were very accurate, but the Smith action was a little better.

 

[jhvaughan2]

Don't rule out a used model 15. Normally they are in 4" instead of the normal 6" of the m14. Can be found for half of the price of a new m14 classic. As other mentioned it is hard to beat the one-handed balance of at 4" k-frame.

 

[RugRev]

Might want to look for a 686 Mtn. Gun. My 686-5 one weighs per S&W 35.5 oz unloaded. Had a 4" 66-2 (36 oz.) and there wasn't any balance difference that I could tell albeit logic would say more or the 686 weight would be in the hand and not the muzzle due to thinner barrel and heavier frame. Might also see if S&W has any Mtn. Gun barrels that you could put on the existing 686.

 

[joed]

I have owned lots of K frames and only one L frame. The 686 was the + version, a 7 shot. I owned it 2 years, rarely shot it and finally sold it. There is no better balanced revolver in my hands than the K frame. Fits my hand perfectly and has such great balance that it naturally points to the target.

I've sold off a 15-3 because I'd rather be able to use magnums when needed. The 19's were my favorites but last year I sold those off in favor of the stainless 66. No regrets.

 

[dashootist]

Why is the shorter barrel M67 one ounce heavier than a longer barrel M14, when they are both K frame?

new K frame 4" M67 - 36 oz
new K frame 6" M14 - 35 oz

 

[David E]

Increasing your strength is the obvious option.

Milling off the lug on your L-frame is the not-so obvious option.

Either one is cheaper than buying a new gun.

 

[Stainz]

The replacement for the 66 SS K frame .357M was the partially-lugged 620. It is less expensive than a regular 4" 686 or 686+, but is the same exact revolver, save the 66-ish partially lugged barrel. That does pare away some weight 'out front', my preference as such weight distribution 'points' better/more naturally to me. That's 36.9 oz. Of course, for competition, you can just load 6 instead of 7 - fill 'em up for plinking/HD.

Stainz

 

[hemiram]

My 60+ year old mother had no problem holding an S&W 28 with a 6+1/2" barrel steady long enough to shoot it six times.

I think working on gaining strength is the way to go here.

 

[Oyeboten]

Yes...

If the Revolver seems too heavy, get a heavier one.

Practice with it as much as possible, then, the one which had seemed 'heavy' will then seem 'light'.


Get a 'WALKER'...in fact...one Handed, Bullseye stance...do a few hundred rounds.


After than, an N Frame S & W will not feel 'heavy' any more.

 

[MrBorland]

If the Revolver seems too heavy, get a heavier one...


Get a 'WALKER'...in fact...one Handed, Bullseye stance...do a few hundred rounds.

IMO, one should tread cautiously with this approach. Perfect Practice Makes Perfect may be cliche but it works. Shooting a heavier gun may strengthen your arm and alter your perception of weight, but your subconscious may also learn to snatch the trigger in a desperate attempt to capture an acceptable sight picture from an unstable one.

Personally, I think the better approach is to use the tool that best accommodates the shooter. If you do it the the other way around, you'll likely always be fighting your gun. JMHO.